1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Yeah. I read that 2016 link about 2 years ago before buying LEDs (Katanas) for my reflector housings. I did the research as I wanted to NOT blind drivers, but wanted better light. If you notice, that link was started in 2016 when LEDs were infants WITHOUT the cup. The Cup is what makes the newer LEDs perform like the OEM incandescents. See picture from the first post from that 2016 dated link.

Basically, that article is dated. It was true LEDs as a whole blinded because there was no cup. Now they have a cup and they do not blind like the bulbs without a cup.

Any bulb (incandescent, LED, nuclear or veggie powered) will blind IF THEY AREN’T PROPERLY AIMED.

An LED with a cup and in a properly aimed housing is sweetness. My LED lights do not blind people. They are brighter than incandescent, but the light is on the road.

Second point: Those High Over Powered Incandescent Bulbs burn out too fast. They may be bright at first but they lose their Mojo quickly. They are expensive, too. They will also haze up your plastic lens and cause electrical problems in some cases due to high heat.

 

I’ve been a passenger when this stunt was performed in a closed course setting. All safety protocol was adhered.

 

Just ordered some new Hylux ballasts for my headlights. The el-cheapo ones I have are no bueno. Shoutout to @rock climber for the tip. I'll report back once I get them installed.

 

Good times.
The very 1st day the S2 on lowered coilovers my cousin riding shotgun, I slowed way down for the railroad tracks since I still wasn’t sure if it would scrape. As I’m going across he says “you ruined the car going so low” and just then full on the brakes cause a Mercedes suv blew the light and was easily going around 40-50 mph, blew passed us within a foot a 2. I like to remind him how Fortune Auto saved his life, any other day and we would have been t-boned

 

Next generation (3rd) of LED Projectors is gonna be the shizzle. Word.

 

I ran the extra wiring harness and the osrams in my old taco. I had that setup for a year and a half before I sold the truck. I was still on the same bulbs. I have no idea how many hours were on that setup but for my use case it worked out fine. That setup had crispy sharp cutoff lines so I had the maximum amount of light on the ground in front of me where I needed it. That setup had excellent road manners when following or meeting traffic. setting across the intersection I looked like every other 10 year old truck on the road. My OEM housing never showed any sign of heat damage. Most of my improvements are focused on low beam performance. That setup was the single best improvement I have ever made to a vehicle.

Is there a thread out there that compares these LEDs with cups? If that really does solve the cutoff issue that is a huge hurtle for me. The other is CRI. My understanding is that most LEDs run around 80 where incandescent are a perfect 100, correct me if I am wrong there. That is what makes colors look washed out or muted. Most of my experience with LEDs is in mobile flashlights and I use them daily. I have no experience with headlight LEDs. I am not sure if this is related to cri or a different issue, but when I see pictures of projected LEDs the edges get a weird blue or yellow fade on the edge. This picture shows what I mean. I have had flashlights that did that and it makes me feel like I am seeing reflections like I looked at that sun or something.

 

Spent the afternoon roaming the Wichita national forest in the tundra, they have over 1,000 miles of just offroad janky mountain roads, so much fun

 

That link you provided talks about the longevity of the High Watt Bulbs from others. I didn’t read it again, but was going on memory from commenters. If you say yours lasted a long time I believe you.

The new cup on the LED is what makes that link you provided an outdated link. In my case, the Katanas work better than brand new standard incandescents bulbs. They have a good cut off line not nearly as sharp as your above picture (probably a projector) above. The projectors have that sharp colorful line.

The Katanas are a great value and they are not perfect. I think people have this idea of perfect light which is subjective.

The things I know about Katana:
1) They are better than OEM Sylvania.
2) They cost less than incandescents.
3) They do not blind.
4) Reduce Amperage.

Note: My first Katana set lasted 14 months with Daytime Running Lights. My second set are newer models with 6 months. I disconnected the DRL and rarely use them in night driving.

Maybe you should do your old Taco set up on your 06? I’ve been eyeing these. Just saw they are on sale and may not be to your liking with the color transition. Looks like $300 after BF Discount. They are a complete unit without need for separate bulbs, ballasts, resistors, etc.

Basically, a clean easy install. The reviewers are few. Most say a nice clean bright wide beam. I noticed they removed a reviewer from a few months ago that said the beam was too wide. The problem he had was aiming low down hill in front which sent the side beams angle higher if that makes sense. Still waiting on a guinea pig here.

 

https://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/1999-2006-2uzfe-timing-belt-kit-with-water-pump-for-tundra-sequoia-land-cruiser-4runner-tkt-021.html

Wife’s sequoia is due for a timing belt and stuff. This kit look good?

 

Big Gurrrl sold that same kit to me for $164 a few months ago. Separately, I did a new v-belt tensioner/heavy duty Gates V-belt and fan bracket (grindy old bearings) which stopped the cold mornings chirp until engine heated. Might as well a new radiator (Denso) and all new hoses.

My first TB was done without replacing the radiator. One year later it went bad with slow leak. Learned a valuable lesson on that one. This new one dropped my temps about 10-15° from the aftermarket NAPA. Not sure why or how.

 

That kit comes in at $165 with the Black Friday code. Hers is due mileage wise no leaks or anything. It’s @ 222k On the clock, I’ll add those parts to the list

my tundra on the other hand is only 40k over the timing belt change and mines getting a new water pump due to a leak

 

Then that begs the question do I do that timing belt again while it’s apart? I mean it was done @109k trucks a little over 140k now.

 

Timing belt should be good for another 80-120k. I’ve seen them with 160k miles and the belt still looked good. Depends on how rough you are on it. If you’ve got the money the time and the parts
I guess you could do it really early. Depends on how many miles you drive a year and how long you’re planning on keeping the truck.
I’d probably just do the water pump and keep rolling.

 

I did a Prestone Coolant Flush (x2) and drove it for 2 days and then drained and ran Distilled Water for another 2 days. Nothing nasty came out. Pull that coolant hose at the oil filter and it will drain the drivers side block completely. You’ll still need to open the drain cock on the pass side. I used forced air in the heater core to clear that chamber and poured coolant right in there with a small funnel.

Pro Tip: Buy a can of compressed air for computers and blast the little screw holes and crevices with the TB covers off. A compressor would work, but the can is strategic. Learned that from some video guy (forgot).

 

Depends on how much you drive it really. Gonna hit another 50k in the next couple years? Or would a belt change while in there last the next 7 years?

 

I just went back an reread you post. So, these high power LEDs don't have the old 10 year life expectancy? I actually didn't realize that. With that said I would guess that most LEDs would last longer than these super bright halogens. They lasted a long time for me but I don't do tons of night driving. I think I paid $15 per light and I bought 4. I just traveled with a spare. If one blew I would replace them both and order a new spare set. I never blew one but that was my plan. My old setup is definitely not for everyone. I do plan to replicate most of my lighting from my tacoma but I want to make sure I know what is out there. I have a set of of nice bright osrams but I will not run them until I upgrade the harness. I will keep you guys posted. My goal is to get the best low beam performance available.

 

Might as well as the belt comes with the kit. The TB alone is only about $50 which is a small price considering all the work. That sucks your pump went bad early. I read a few reviewers say their Aisin went as early as 10k miles. One of our members had the same happen on these Aisin Kits. I took a chance as there were many good solid reviews.

 

I forget what the warranty stated. Only got 14 months with lots of Daytime Light Running. I’ll be changing incandescent bulbs for another set of the same in another car with Projectors this week. The car is a 2016 Model with burnt low beams. Basically, 3 years of driving with lights on in the morning (200 hours). Osram Bulbs.

Side Note: I have the PerfectFit Fogs LED in my Fogs which really fill the front and side of the truck. Without them I’d be disappointed in my headlamps incandescent or LED. Check my build page for the progression experiments I did on my own.

 

I hate to have apart and leave it undone, since it comes in a kit I’ll probably do both.

It’s a small leak front the pump but none the less I’m on borrowed time with it.

 

In Arkansas?

 

Yup. That’s what I meant. Sorry

 

Thanksgiving day prep.



Pole saw did real well. Bout popped a wheelie pulling the hill in 4LO.

It was a shart-tastic adventure coming up out of the woods.

 

Would anyone on here have interest in an OEM LSD out of an '04 TRD soon? I'll be replacing with a locker / would be happy to negotiate and ship on your dime once I get it pulled out. Probably won't be until the end of December when I go to regear. Send me a message directly if you would like to talk shop.

 

@empty_lord I have access to some [basically free and brand new] 3rd gen Taco TRD Offroad shocks & struts. I've read mixed opinions about compatability.
I'm ok swapping my coils (if need be) onto the taco struts and I'm ok with up to a 2" lift. (I'm getting the rear leaves to make a bastard pack as well.)

Am I barking up the wrong tree here? Or is this frankenstein idea possible?

 

The shocks will kit fit

 

I would post up how many miles are on it. Someone might buy it if the mileage isn't really high.

 

A lot. 300k. Figure it may be of use for someone else if they want it. I do not know what they're worth (if anything), but it may be better than sitting in a parts pile for the rest of its life.

 

Do we have any good aftermarket stereo install threads? It looks like there is a double din trim kit that kind of fits. I assume this is cosmetic and I could install the stereo and fill the gaps with something homemade later?

If I am bypassing the factory amp, what wiring kit do I need?

I have come across some old threads on other sites and people were running all new wires to their speakers. Is there a reason for that?

 

I need a way to attach my shovel to my roof basket when venturing out. Quick Fist my best option?