Info on BxFx OBD Dongle Engine Gauges Monitoring 1st Gen Only

Just found this for trans temp.

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/2005-tundra-novice-build-the-rez.176272/post-2657682

 

Try opening a new gauge/style and then select transmission 1 or 2 as the reading for that gauge. Its a back door entry iirc.

 

I've tried that a few times and never got a readout. Going to try the custom route, like outlined in the link I provided. Wish me luck.

 

If that doesn't work, I'll pull up mine. The sealed transmissions need the custom PID

 

Been toying with some settings one of which is the ‘Engine Has Reached Operating Temperature’ voice command. Seems it happens at 159° on the engine coolant gauge.

Still trying to figure out how to save my Custom Dash and come back to it after going into other functions of the app. I’ve even selected save my settings and they disappear once I leave.

This App/OBD is pretty amazing and still have lots to learn on them.

 

Hmmmm.
I don't have that problem at all.
My custom setups all stay put even when not connected...
Something in your settings maybe?
2 years apart in make years could matter with the ecm's?

 

That's because engines are designed to work above 160° degrees F°. Below that and oil viscosity is too low and internal friction will be higher. Enough to reduce engine efficiency, decrease gas mileage and increase wear.

If your screen setup isn't saving, something is wrong on the app install or settings. Is it currently up to date?



I used to have the bafx adapter but now use a .99 'elm327 v1.5' adapter I got off eBay. Because it's significantly shorter. They're now a whopping $3.70, I just checked. Fyi do NOT get a v2.1 as it is not compatible.

 

Yeah. Been toying with the settings. Still working it to find the fix. Doubt its the ECU.

 

@bassman417 I noticed 2 things on your readings:

1) Volts 11.7 (mine never drop below 12.3 at the OBD)

2) Coolant 192° (my coolant seemed to mimic your temps in earlier posts from you at 195-201° range). With the new radiator they haven’t gone over 186°.

 

Do you think this is because you replaced this just as we were transitioning to fall? I'm curious if it will stay that low next summer when temps are a lot higher.

Edit- I forgot it stays 80 all year on the island...

 

Good identifying on the seasonal changes. Whilst it hasn’t been 98° since the new Radiator it has been close enough to provide apples to apples. Even in towing/hauling the temps stay 185°+/- 1.5°.

I’ll know more next year, but can say with pretty good certainty I think 185° is the new normal instead of 195-200° (even on cool Island Summer Breeze Nights).

 

At the time i took that pic, the truck was not even running and i was sitting inside my house not even connected. I wanted to show that my settings stay put on the app.
I think now its probably your device or a setting somewhere within causing your issues.

My volts normally post @13.2 max when running.
As for temps, shes running around 185° cruising & 190° @ idle. although intakes are cool now, during summer in 110° heat, it runs about the same.
I appreciate the heads up !! thx

 

Yeah buddy. Good on ya. I was just going on this pic from way back a few months ago.

 

Since acquisition of the Dongle, this is my first winter monitoring temps. I’ve noticed (with the OEM Tow Cooler) my trans temps barely reach over 125° in moderate City driving for 20-30 minutes in 40° Ambient Temps.

Thus, I’ve decided to add a Transmission Thermostatic Control Valve to raise the temps quicker on short drives and cooler Ambient Temps while maintaining them higher. The Valve ‘Bypasses’ the OEM Cooler and sends the fluid back to the transmission without cooling it in cold weather.

In summer, or anytime the fluid raises above 180°, the Valve opens and allows full fluid flow and the temps maintain. From readings, the Valve always allows at least 10% Flow for Mojo purposes regardless of temps. As the temps rise at the Valve, it opens ever more. At 180° it a full flow.

The Valve is solid Aluminum (heat sink) and acts as a Cooler in Summer in addition to the OEM Stacked Unit Cooler.

From readings, many report like myself their fluid temps were in the 120-130° Range. After Valve install, their temps rose fast and then maintained in the 150-160° in winter (even thought the Valve is rated 180°).

Some report Cooler temps in the Summer as the Valve Body acts as another heat sink.

I’ll be installing this soon and will report back on findings. Made in USA.

 

I’m interested to see what you think of this. Towing my 4500lb travel trailer at 60-70 mph over 230 miles yesterday, my transmission temp stayed between 116 (torque converter locked with OD on) and 124 (OD off). Also, when not pulling rarely got over 105 this week. Ambient temps in the teens to twenties.

 

Not as cold here as your place, but sounds like we have similar results.

There are plenty of reviews on this Valve 13011 you can read which all I did was basically summarize.

Obviously, our trucks are near 20 years old and the low temps aren’t too bad on them otherwise they’d be toast by now. The DEX/Merc is made for low temp fluidity probably due more to worry over too low of temps versus high temp. From readings its best to have the Trans Temps near 160-180° year round which I do get in High Summer with Tow.

I’m sure a warmer transmission would be better on MPG. I was real interested in hearing how this Valve gave lower temps in Summer due to Heat Sink Qualities.

I think our OEM Coolers are properly sized and no need to go bigger as I’ve never had an overheat. This Valve is mostly for ‘quick warm and steady higher winter fluid temps’.

 

Installed the Derale Temp Control Valve this week and early reports are that the Transmission Temps are heating a little faster than normal on early cold start ups. The driving temps are averaging around 10-15° warmer than normal.

The super cold weather has passed and unsure if she’ll get a good test until next year, but based on prior readings on same temperature driving it seems the Valve is working as reviewers described. The Fluid is redirected back to the Transmission (away from the Tow Package Radiator) keeping fluid 10-15° warmer.

To the touch, the Valve Body feels very warm compared to prior install and touching the Inlet on the Rad Cooler.

Installed using the OEM Hoses/Routing Layout with strategic cuts. Hand crafted the Valve Bracket and mounted with Grommet Cushions for vibration protection. Hoses reconnected with Original Clamps along with Matching New Toy Clamps (10mm).

Will report back with more info as it presents itself. Curious on how this Valve will act as a Cooler/Heatsink in Summer Heat.

 

I’ve been running one for awhile now and I don’t have a single complaint. I can confirm that on the hotter days, the trans rarely will hit about 160* unless I’ve been really pushing it. In the rare cases it does hit 180*, it floods the

$58 Hayden 679 Universal 11” Rapid-Cool Add-On Transmission Cooler to Enhance Cooling (not for direct replacement of the factory unit)

Hayden 679 cooler I installed and within seconds, yes seconds, the temp will drop 20* and maintain.

I can start my truck for 10min in the morning, drive it a few miles to the gym, workout for 1.5 hours and drive another 5 min home and the trans temp is right around 130*. I don’t track my fuel mileage but shifts are definitely smoother since installing it. Very cheap and easy upgrade.

 

Has anyone noticed if these BT OBD dongles have excessive drains on their battery? I haven’t been driving my truck as much lately but I think I may be a parasitic draw somewhere. I drove it one day last week, fired right up with no issues. Last night I went to start it and it was almost dead. Wouldn’t crank and had to take a jump box to it. The only two things I’m aware of that are on is BT OBD adapter and small light on two gang rocker switch. Battery was replaced under warranty 2-3 months ago.

 

I do not leave mine plugged in when engine is OFF. There has been a rare occasion or two where I forgot and realized in the morning, but to no ill effect.

 

Nice! Where did you mount yours?

I also have noticed the shifts smoother (earlier) on the first leg of a cold morning journey where prior they would be a little more firm on cold mornings until the truck got some miles on her.

 

I haven't had any non starts from my dongle yet but now I'm thinking I'll unplug before I have to jump it. May as well just leave it unplugged until I get my old Samsung tablet up and running to have a 10 screen to monitor stuff on anyways. Phone seems too small for me.

 

Most air flow and right in line with the cooler. A few days or even a week doesn’t seem to effect it. Today I braved the storm to go exploring in the storm and when I got home I unplugged it. It was actually pretty warm to touch. I plan on taking my multimeter and checking for a draw once the weather clears up.

 

Did you bypass the radiator cooler section when you did this? So no more chance of mixture if radiator fails?

 

I did not. Still retains factory cooler on the inside.

 

Ok. Nothing wrong with that.


I have a larger than OEM B&M oil cooler sitting in the garage for the last 10+ years. Maybe one day I'll do the thermostatic valve and bypass the radiator heater/cooler section.

 

I did not eliminate the Transmission Lines Flowing through the bottom of Radiator, either. The entire purpose of that design is to warm and cool (modulate) the Fluid depending on its temperature condition.

The Derale Bypass is there (for my purpose) to warm the Trans Fluid faster on short trips during cold weather. The OEM Factory Tow Cooler Radiator Size is more than adequate in Cooling during Hot Temps. It does such a good job that the Trans Fluid stays 120° usually in winter (even in City Type Driving). Many of my readings say the Trans should be right up with the Engine Temps 185° for Optimization.

 

I replaced and the OE radiator not too long ago so I wasn’t too worried about it. If you have an extra, toss it in! It’s a really easy swap.

 

To add another data point, my coolant also hasn't topped 186°. Mine tends to get to 180° quite quickly and cycles from 180° to 185°ish and back. I can only rationalize this as a working thermostat and an efficient radiator. That being said, I've only really had the monitor for a handful of months. We'll see what happens during the coming summer months.