Anybody Personally Done a Timing Belt Replacement

I'm confused by the Toyota Techinfo Timing Belt Replacement procedure and some local videos out there. Some say to set the timing a 0 degrees to remove/replace belt, others say rotate past 0 degrees TDC to 50 degrees and remove/replace at that point.

Techinfo says remove at 0 degrees on the crankshaft. Is this what you all have done? - Thanks - !

 

Start with the crank pulley at 0 degrees, then you need to move it to 50 degrees to ensure the cam pulleys are all lined up directly to TDC. Make sure the alignment marks match between the cam pulleys and the marks on the heads.

this is the best video that I have referenced for the 3 I’ve done;

https://youtu.be/dCTGHurWA1c

 

Thanks. Interesting that the Toyota Tech Info does not indicate to do this. On my LS430 I did rotate it 50 degrees, but apparently the documentation is different for it. Thanks for the link!

 

I believe it has something to do with the introduction of variable valve timing (VVTI) in 2005. Non VVTI is done at zero degrees and VVTI is at 50 degrees. What year is your 4.7?

 

If you have a 2005-06 you can download a copy of the Toyota Factory Service Manual at the link below. Save the file to a computer for future use.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-5MhfqaHsHObmt6RDVhOGtKWjA/view

 

I have done it both ways, either way will work. On non vvti as well as vvti. If you set the belt at " I ", this is TDC .. the cam sprocket will have a tendency to turn back once the belt is off and you hit/touch/knock the engine. If you use the "T" mark or 50° ATDC, the spring pressure on the valves no longer want to turn the cams backward and things will stay where they are supposed to

 

Thank you gentlemen. Its a 2001. I'm pretty well convinced at this point to use the 50 degree mark. I tore it down yesterday and I'm at the point of setting the timing marks to pull the belt off. I've already ordered and received the Aisan timing belt kit. I've used them before and I like the quality. I bought the truck last week. 4WD, 240K miles and in need of some love. I had it towed home because the tensioner for the serpentine belt had seized and apparently so did the alternator for some unexplained reason. The PO bought a new tensioner but gave up on replacing it when he found out it wasn't an easy R/R.

 

Glad you found your answer. I was also questioning whether it was appropriate to use the 50 degree mark when it is my turn to replace my timing belt/water pump.

Please keep us posted on your work, we love pics!

 

Here’s where I set my cams/crank in my ‘05.

 

@Professional Hand Model @empty_lord

 

I usually do it at 0. But as posted above you can do that too. If you were removing the cams you have to do it as posted above.

 

2006 Tundra: Is the following wrong? With the crankshaft at 0, the cams line up to TDC. With the crankshaft on the dot in the video, it appears that the cams line up close to T. The Hanes manual was ambiguous as they say there is a slight change from '05 to '06 in lining this up. I rotated the engine many revolutions prior and then I heard noises when it fired up and so I shut it off. I took off some covers and the marks are I (TDC) and "0". It's defeated me and has been in my garage over a year like this.

 

You are correct in your pics. Watch A1 Auto Vids and Otramm Vids. Both helped me.

Line up both I’s (Cams) with 0 (at crank).

Not sure what was your noise. Sounds like you turned a few revolutions prior to start so you did that right, as well.

 

You're only showing us the Drivers side cam marking. What does the other bank look like? It should also be on the same line (identical to the opposite bank). If it is, the belt is good to go. Not sure what the noises may be...?

 

I was worried when i did mine because some videos contradict each other. I went with 50 deg but my timing had slipped so i had to reposition 1 cam, then realized the belt was marked, so lined up belt marks with crank and then belt mark with cams.

 

I did mine several years ago but I don't think at 80 I'd try that again on my 2004. My son's going to do it the next time. Thank God he's close enough this time to do that for me!

Larry

He still drives my former 2000 and it is doing fine after 125,000 miles and one belt change. The frame is pretty rusted but he does drive it daily but doesn't haul anything heavy.

Larry

 

I viewed the Tundra shop manual pictures provided and it's a match like you suggest, thanks. The noise - fearfully, I don't know. Could it have been hydraulics--it turned before and after smoothly many turns?. Tomorrow, a "mobile mechanic" is coming out from Craigslist (the parts are lined up here and I was desperate for another opinion). And yes, it is the same right and left and I appreciate the responses and will follow up with posts.
*Note: I thought this reply had posted earlier.

 

Have the ‘mobile mechanic’ wire brush that crank pulley. All that rust can’t be good on the V-belt.

 

Craigslist mechanic? I’m a “little” skeptical, but hopefully he has done one of these UZ engines before, and he’ll stand by his work..

make sure to report results

 

the timing belts are not bad id make sure to use the aisin timing belt kit oem parts on the cheap

 

i think the hardest thing for me was the fan honestly. A zero offset long 12mm wrench will save the day !

 

Or, your can link up two box wrenches using the hook and eye extension method.

 

true

 

Or if you have various small pieces of pipe laying about. The few times I've done the 2-wrench method I have visions of impending disaster.

 

Just buy a long 12mm wrench and be done with it. The right tool for the right job. Somewhere down the line you will need a long 12mm wrench for something else and you will thank yourself that you already have it.