2.5-3 inch lift - diff drop longevity?

Touché haha.

 

Interesting thread for sure though

 

Yep so far the subject had left me more confused. Starting to think best might be:

1. Stay at 2" lift in the front like trd pro and avoid the whole diff drop uncertainty.

Or

2. Chop up the truck with a full lift kit that actually drops everything down.

 

3: 3.5” coil overs with 2” c/o blocks without a diff drop and let us know how it goes for a scientific experiment haha

 

4. No chopping ....bolt on 12" bulletproof lift lol

Oh hell just go buy a class 5 truck and put on mwrap axles and 52" military tires. Ha ha ha

 

Straight axle swap! Haha

 

I bought a tundra with a 6” rough country lift, took off everything rough country except the diff drop and installed an OME 3”. Is it possible to have too much diff drop? Everything works well, 4wd works but the ride seems a little stiffer than it should be, I know a lifted tundra isn’t going to ride like a boat but it seems to be stiffer than normal. Wondering if the diff drop from the old 6” lift is a problem. Please advise.

 

I leveled the front with 6112s at 1.9”. I also installed a diff drop.. cheap insurance policy

 

What exactly did you remove? The 6" RC lift has taller spindles, strut spacers, and brackets that drop the lower control arms the diff.

 

I removed everything but the bracket that drops the diff/lower control arms

 

did not realize the lift had taller steering knuckles, those I did not remove. I think that’s the problem. Should I swap for oem knuckles or is there another knuckle that better suits a 3”?

 

How much lift are you trying to get? Are you trying to go down from 6" to 3"? If you are you might be stuck only going down to 4.5" without going back to oem knuckles, removing the drop brackets, and welding up the cut crossmember.

The RC 6" lift is actually the same as their 4.5" lift. The 6" kit just come with a taller strut spacer. The drop brackets and knuckles move everything down 4.5". At the 4.5 setting the geometry of the suspension is basically the same as factory.

At the moment with a 3" strut the geometry of the suspension is about the same as a being lowered 1.5" on a stock Tundra. I guess you could run a 1.5" spacer on top of the OME 3" to make up the difference.

You might want to look at the front bumpstops for the lower control arm first and see how much movement of the suspension is available right now. If it's riding on the bumpstops it will feel rough. For some reason though, I thought I read the OME lift had really stiff springs. I dont see why having the shorter strut would make it ride rough, unless its hitting the bumpstops like i said or maybe the OME is that rough.

What did you remove from the 6" lift? A 6" spacer? Another option is you could call RC and tell them you want the parts to go down to a 4.5" lift and they could send you what you need and use an oem strut with it.

 

Yes, the goal was to lower the truck for the sake of functionality. The 6” looked great but it’s a pain in the ass to work out of not to mention the extra stress and wear on front end and driveline components just for the sake of looks. I considered removing the drop brackets but the cv axle angles look good and I actually had some 4wd issues with the 6” where it wouldn’t stay fully engaged if the suspension articulated and it would pop and grind and after replacing the spaced coil overs with the 3” OME’s it all went away and the 4wd works perfectly. I’ll try to get some pictures uploaded but it seems to me that the RC knuckles are too tall and have my travel almost maxed out so there’s a clunk at the end of the down travel if I hit a bump or obstruction to hard, it’s not bumping at the bottom, plenty of clearance under the stops. I’ll get some pictures uploaded but thanks for your input so far. This is the first time I’ve worked on suspension so I’m just trying to understand how it all functions.