General new car dealership negotiations?

Okay so i am headed to the dealership to buy a new 3/4 ton truck.

please share your best
Negotiation tactics.

the msrp for the truck is $42,150 “after rebates, etc.” my goal is buy the truck out
The door for
$42,150. Share your tactics, i plan to be upfront and say this is what i want to pay.

 

Start with something under 40K out the door. They will want to work the way up.

 

Don’t get “married” to a truck. Be flexible on colors if you want the best deal. Determine your non-negotiable and go from there.

I didn’t know what an “SX” package was and I really didn’t want white initially. Ended up getting the price I wanted - about 15% discount.

 

I went several times to several different dealers in my area - each time riding my bike there intending on driving the truck home, bike in bed. I could not get anyone to wait on me. First tip, don't go to a dealership with your bike kit on. I revisited each dealer and tried to strike a deal at what I considered a reasonable discount, $7K off a 2021 Limited. No deal. Frustrated, I decided to fill out the "Request E-Quote" via cars.com for each dealership. I couldn't believe that one responded with exactly the deal I tried in-person. So, I recommend you give that a try before stepping foot on the lot.

 

Always be prepared to walk away.

 

I’d take it a step further (no pun intended). Walk away at least once.

 

are you trading? that generally gives them some ability to maneuver $s to get to a number you can feel good about. Find out what their incentives are. Many times if you agree to finance with Toyota or a local credit union you can find some magic. Other than that, stick to your guns. If they know you are serious, they don’t want you to walk any more then you don’t want to walk.

 

He who cares the least has the power. New vehicles are a break even deal for dealerships. They make their real money on the shop and used cars. Shoot for a minimum of 10% off MSRP. 15% is better. However, the law of supply and demand really affects the car market. Right now, Tundras are bringing top dollar because demand is high and supply limited. Dealing on one late in the month helps because the dealership will pay the bank interest on the money they borrowed to buy the vehicle on the 1st of the following month. Good luck.

 

No trading, i am most likely selling my
Tundra private party for what i paid for it two years ago. I plan to buy the new truck then sell the tundra soon after. This way i feel less pressure into having to buy a truck.

if no deal ill just forget about it!
I owe $31k on my tundra.
I have offers of $39-41k cash.

i figure i want the same debt if i get
The 3/4 ton for $42k ish.

 

I went to the particular dealership more than 8 days ago to look. Now after consideration i want to put a offer on
The truck. Thanks guys ill tell you how it goes.

feels good to have 8-10$k in positive equity on our tundras!

also of the truck is still there which it is does that means its
Not a hot truck for sale?

 

And WALKAWAY every time! The deal always gets better!

 

Got it guys, trust me i am not
Married to the truck. If deal fails this 3/4 ton is a want.
Ill be happily away with my tundra. Also should i drive my clunker 96’ 4x4 tacoma or my supposedly sold 19’ tundra to the dealership?

 

This is the beaut im looking at to replace
My tundra. Bitter sweet if it goes
Thru.

6.2 gas, 4x4 fx4 sxt package. Ill be happy it has an industrial Interior! This means dogs and dirty kids no problem! Full 6’ bed to lay all my
Honeys down to shag in!

factory skids and solid axle suspension!

 

I’ve never put much value on what I show up in , wear, etc... but with that said if you show up in that 2019 you might get into a real discussion with them wanting to buy it from you

 

They offered first time
I went, i told them the purpose is im selling my tundra private party to get top $ for their f250.

but i am going to say i sold it to family so i didnt get top $. This way they ll know to sell it lower.

 

Ha! Went to a Toyota dealer with my family on a walk a few years back. Both kids in strollers at the time. Once we were finally acknowledged, we were quickly escorted to the budget lot. That’s funny cause I had been thinking about buying a used 20k minivan. I didn’t.

Related to this thread, but not my previous comments... new car dealers have something called a “holdback” for every new car. Probably 500.00 minimum. This is what they get paid from manufacturers even if they sell the car for their invoice price.

Also, there is no way any dealer doesn’t make money on new or used car sales. They couldn’t afford their electric bills.

Good luck @Redcon41318!

 

Ok... so you're looking at a Ford. My $0.02 on how I would approach it:

First thing I would do is look at the invoice price. You can find that on many sites... costcoauto.com, edmunds.com, etc...

That would be the "most" I'd want to pay for that truck, before any rebates / incentives are subtracted, and I'd hope to be about $1000 under that before rebates / incentives if it's a fairly new unit and in high demand. Also, if there are any documentation / "dealer fees", I tend to subtract that from the purchase price in my offer, knowing they will still show up on their paperwork, but I technically didn't pay them, per se. I can't remember the exact hold back amount for Ford, but I think it's somewhere around 3% of MSRP.

So in theory, if you got it for invoice - $1000 - any dealer / documentation fees - rebates / incentives, you'd be getting it for close to their cost( or less, depending on the rebates / incentives).

Note 1: Some other things come into their "true" cost, but it's a decent approximation. Dealers have to make some money to stay in business.
Note 2: You may be able to do better on one that has been in stock a while and they are desperate to move, but YMMV... sometimes units in stock a long time have lost any marketing assistance and have racked up floor plan costs, so they actually have more cost in the vehicle.
Note 3: You may be able to get a "Private Cash Offer" (additional rebate that normally stacks with any other public rebates) from Ford if you go to the ford.com site, turn off any cookie / pop up blockers, and browse the trucks and build a few... Usually it will appear as a pop up for more information... Sometimes you get a Private Cash Offer from filling those out, sometimes not. My suggestion would be to either put a fake phone # in or one that you never answer, as it will get blown up with calls and texts either way.

Armed with that number, I'd subtract another $1000 to $2000 as my starting offer, as dealers never seem to want to take your first offer even if it is a fair one. Know your target price, and work to keep under it. If close (within $500 or so), you can always try to get the to throw in a spray in bedliner or steps or something too.

Be careful of the price you see in that ad you posted. The "conditional rebates / incentives" are normally things that most folks don't qualify for. They may include stuff like a millitary discount, a conquest discount (trading in competitor vehicle), a first responder discount, a financing incentive, a farm bureau member, etc... And then if they are really sneaky, they sum up all of these hard to qualify for incentives even if they don't "stack" (can't be used together) and come up with a magical price that no one actually qualifies for.

Hope that helps!

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-want-to-buy-a-tundra.10671/

 

That link was useful, well havent gone to the dealer just to dam lazy!

maybe itll show that the truck isnt
Hot on the lot
And theyll sell it to me.

 

Not sure what state your in. But I’d personally wait until after the first of the year I’m sure everything is going to shut down again then the factories are going to have to empty their lots to get rid of the remaining 2020s and all the 2021s with all kind of discounts.

 

1. I think that truck is still around as it is a 6.2. With the new 7.3 out, most people are probably gravitating over to it. 6.2 is a pretty good little engine though!

2. I am going to be fair to both you and the dealer during these crazy times. I think I would shoot for about 7% off MSRP before rebates. This will come out to the dealer taking about $3k off, then adding whatever factory rebate you qualify for.

3. Dow to the cost of it, as it is not an $80k trim truck. I would imagine there is not as much wiggle room in it will sell for closer to MSRP.

4. Tough times, but if you wait and let the inventory of Tundras catch up, you probably are going to loose a couple thousand when you sell it later due to demand. You might buy a new Ford for cheaper, but I really do not think a couple months after the new year will help much.

All I know is I was in same boat a few weeks ago and I am absolutely loving my 2500 HD.....

 

Thanks for sharing

 

It's Cal Worthington and his dog, SPOT!

lol, man those were some great commercials. You in SoCal?

 

Yes!

 

I did not, thinking back i should have! Back in fall 2020 out the door price on listed/ ad i showed was $46-47 k otd.

i drive a hard bargain and didnt feel it was low enough for me to sell my tundra for a f250.

time passed i did more towing, camping and borrowing my families duramax. I priced same truck now in 2021, they want some $50-55m otd for the same truck equivalent i looked at in 2020. Shame! I learned $46-47 k was a good deal!

i settled and bought a low mpg 2500 suburban. I also kept tundra.