What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Replaced the burnt out parking light bulb in the LF headlight.

Removed the annoying key reminder connector, which was going off even without a key in the ignition with the door open.

Slid under the truck and checked the 4 bolts from the crossmember to trans mount. The ones known to disappear. One was loose enough I could spin its washer with my finger tips. The others took at least 1/2 more turn of tightening before being tight.

 

Put the tool box back on to get it out of the yard.

 

Here's a video from this morning.
https://youtu.be/mRQV9pNUOak

Almost turned into @lsaami. I was thinking about it when she ran out in front of me.

@FirstGenVol's bumper looks more promising every day.

 

Slowly but surely. That’s a labor of love. Perfection is all I strive for with that truck, which takes time and money

 

Is that what they were referring to when the compared the two bolts to four?

 

The 4 bolt photo is NSFW.

 

We have some mean Philippine Food here on the Island. Pancit and Lumpia are my favorites. My couch from 1973 still looks brand new from the Plastic Cover Protectors trick I learned from the Garcias. They were big into Trans Ams.

 

You've gotta try some sisig(sea-sig), its a citrus flavored tender pork with onions. Mouth watering. I also enjoy bistek, which is pretty much beef and caramelized onions.

Forgot, white rice with either one.

 

Did you marry into this kinda food, or where did it come into your life?

 

Married in. They have a lot of tasty food, i just don't mess with balut or dinuguan. Any of their chicken, beef, or pork I enjoy.

 

A couple weeks ago when I was doing the alignment on my truck I noticed some dampness around the front bushing on the RF control arm. More seepage rather than enough to actually drip on the ground.

Just popped the hood again for a closer look and it appears it may be coming from the passenger V/C gasket towards the front at the bottom. I remember reading about checking the bolts periodically; so I grabbed my 1/4" ratchet, a couple 10mm's and extensions. Sure enough, the 10mm V/C bolts were all a bit loose, some more than others. Went over both sides while I was there.

 

The cam seals are a common and massive pain in the ass to repair leak too


To replace on the vvti engines, you have to remove the cams. There’s photos on my build page, I’d post them now but I can’t dig them up easily on the phone

 

There’s a guy at work(sparky) who is from Vietnam, he almost always brings food from home; it usually always smells like garbage. Thankfully he isn’t in our break room area anymore. Most of his dishes are usually some sort of fish soup, but he also constantly eats durian? I feel like he’s stinky on Purpose, maybe I’m sensitive?

I’m not a huge Asian food fan just because of my restaurant experience, I have a really hard time going to/enjoying a asian buffet. But when my old lady whips something up in that fashion(which she does often) I’ll get down. It’s good because she does a lot of veggies, and our youngest is loving them all right now.

 

Oh yes, durian and jackfruit stink to high hell. My wife eats that stuff. I'm not into any seafood unless its fish n chips or fish tacos.

 

so I noticed a nice puddle of diff fluid where my front right cv axle goes into the diff. I'm assume the axle seal went? Anyone have the part numbers for both fronts? Also, my wife used the 4x4 the other day and I'm wondering if that had anything to do with it.

 

It's sad to say, but I'm leaving the Tundra [owners] community, as i put mine on craigslist earlier this week.
I'm moving away and won't have any more room or time to finish it's restoration. I will still be around to try to help solve any issues that members might have (basically my truck had every problem you can think of)
If you live in south florida PM me if you are interested.

 

awesome thanks. After posting this I realized I bought the front left one...or so I thought but it's a different part number
9031147012

 

The 5/16" measurement is the approximate horizontal distance from the bar edge to the edge of the tailgate but only at the left corner. Height wise/horizontally, (I'm hoping that's the distance your smoke signal asked about) with the tailgate open the height of the torsion bar is just barely above the height of the edge of the tailgate. So imagining a horizontal line at the bottom of the torsion bar, that line would be just about even with the line of the edge of the tailgate. So no real clearance, height wise. Did I get it? Or should I go have a few beers. Probably going to do that anyway.

 

Have a few beers.


If my in head universal translator is working right.

Horizontally there is 5/16" clearance between bar and tailgate at the bend in the corner.

Vertically the bottom edge of the torsion bar is even with the edge of the tailgate. This is what I was wondering about, as if you drop lower to clear the hinge, the bar may start rubbing the edge of the tailgate. Probably somewhere towards the middle of the torsion bar. Although it's super hard to tell how much lower it is safe to go from pictures.


Thanks.

 

probably holes for belly button rings

 

Cheers!





Yeah, I see how lowering the template hole might cause interference with the lip instead of the hinge bracket. In the grand scheme of things, we've probably over thought this and it's caused me to drink, thanks!

 

That's a bummer...but better luck on the next vehicle...

 

I took my truck to a brake shop this morning and had them pressure bleed the system. He said there was some air in the rear but sadly it didn't help firm up the pedal very much. I had him take it for a test drive and he agreed but said it's not air in the system. Like I mentioned, I can pump the pedal a few times to build up pressure and then it feels great.

The only thing I know to try next is making some adjustments in the rear. Remind me which way the prop valve adjusts? It may be a long shot but I'll see if I can firm up the pedal by making adjustments to the back.

 

Seems like it was move the LSPV pivot arm UP to engage more in the rear.

Down to engage less.

Can we get some fact checkers in here?

 

Sounds similar to what I had. but I would do 1 pump every time to get my braking. It was air, 2nd guy got it out. But if you have to do multi pumps, that sounds more like my previous experience w/ bad masters.

 

Hmm.. I'm trying to think of which I should go. I'm thinking I'll try to send more work up front to compensate for the bigger pistons...My logic might be wrong there though.

 

The system is linked together from what I understand. It's finding a balance between the two. If you don't have any rear engagement, it takes more pedal to get front engagement. If you get too much rear engagement, the rear tires want to lock early. So adjusting the brakes so that the rears engage properly will actually result in better front brake engagement because of the pressure in the system. From what I understand.