After the auction - new to me tundra

I'm trying to sell them on Craigslist to decrease the cost of these shenanigans but I think I've listed them too high.

https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/wto/d/portland-set-of-4-tundra-tacoma-method/7213894293.html

 

Dang. Wrong color and too far.

 

On car-part.com one of the selections is "Interior Complete" and if none come up you can put in a request for a quote. So maybe an auto salvage place near you has one and if not you can let them all know you're looking.

 

I use car-part all the time and never knew Of interior complete. Nice

I was going to try and weasel my way into buying an auction truck

 

Might be a tad high but I’m pretty sure they are expensive wheels. If you were closer, I’d throw you an offer.

 

Discovered that the P0128 wasn't because of the temp sensor but instead that someone decided the truck didn't need a thermostat. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

Lol. Seen that before when they’re to cheap to replace a stuck closed thermostat

 

I can feel the other error codes coming on once the monitoring/drive tests are properly happening. IS there a better strategy to getting them all then just working through this:

https://justsmogs.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/READINESS_MONITOR_DRIVE_PATTERNS_T-EG02-003.pdf

 

Not really.. driving with the scan tool plugged in can help set them
Faster.. that’s about it

 

I feel like this truck could tell some great stories. There is no telling what else you will uncover.

 

I feel your pain. When I bought my Tundra, I thought the intake was louder than normal. It even had a slight whistle like a small turbo.. Cool right? Wasn't till a week later when I was servicing everything that and noticed the previous owner decided it didn't need an air filter

 

You don’t want to know how many second gens I’ve had oil changes on only to find the previous oil change involved not installing a filter in the canister

 

Better flow rate with no filter.

 

The driving tests showed two new codes, P0441 - Evaporative Emissions System Incorrect Purge Flow and P0446 - Evaporative Emissions System Vent Control Circuit. I haven't made time to look into them yet. But I did figure out why my tail light fuse kept blowing:



I bought a sanding block, spot putty, some primer, and an eraser wheel and will have a go at making the hood and cab smooth this weekend.

 

Possible leak in the system. Could be something as stupid as old gas cap. Always recommend to try that first and check for dents or holes in the tank, before digging into the pressure sensors or purge/vent solenoids and canisters on any modern OBDII vehicle.

Good find on the plate light! Whoda thunk to look there? And how tf did that happen?

 

Figured out a problem with the evap system. Maybe fixing it will fix everything:







I probably did it when swapping the master cylinder and forgot to put it back.

 

That had happened to me before a long time ago. Should make the truck run better with it reconnected. I’ve added zip ties to those hoses around that junction clip to hold it all together.

 

I changed the plugs and found that 6 of them weren't really torqued at all so the ignition coils for those cylinders all had a varying amount of blowby/oil on them. Should I do anything about that? I just wiped them down and put in the new plugs.

Here's an example of one of the coils:




And the plugs I pulled out:

 

Our plugs seem to become loose easily over time. I’ve noticed this through personal observation even when following the hand model instructions on the spark plug box.

As long as your coils are in spec, then your be good. Loose plugs always remind me of @Bubbles who seems to have blocked me (don’t care). He had his truck for 6 weeks before selling it and argued this isn’t a problem.

 

Thanks. I don't get any CELs from them so I assume they're good but haven't tested them. Do you have a process you like for checking them?

 

If they spark and no misfires, they are good to go.

 

As long as the coil housings aren't showing cracks or stress fractures, especially along the tubey part, I'd clean out the bore with a lint-free cloth and solvent, install new plugs, button the rest up and be done with it.

 

I’ll look for the FSM Spec using the multimeter later.

 

I looked for the FSM Spec and couldn’t find it. I just erased some pics the other day with the spec thinking I’d no longer need it. For some reason its in an obscure place in the FSM and don’t feel like peeling through 2400 pages.

Anyways, the only problem I ever had with my truck was when #5 Coil went out without warning at 142k miles. No CEL prior to warn me. Light and problem came on close to home so we hobbled back in limp mode. Engine was running rough! Kept it under 30mph per manual.

Ended up having a shop do the work due to being tied up with other things at the time and no real desire to wrench. Fast forward to deciding to keep her for a few more years, I bought all new ones at 155k based on the Land Cruiser guys (4.7L) reccos since they were the first to have that engine in 1997? They said if one goes then the rest are close behind.

Your call, but you should be fine until one fails.

 

@peanut I saw you post recently and it made me wonder how your truck was coming along. How's she doing?