Bypassing factory amp for non-jbl 2018 DC?

Does anyone know or could point me in the right direction to bypass the factory amp on a non-jbl 2018 double cab? I recently replaced the head unit with a pioneer DMH-2660NEX. Also I changed out the door speakers. Sound is crappy and worse than before installation. Don’t won’t a buy a amp. I used the idatalink HRN-RR-TO2 harness to retain steering controls. Also I had Crutchfield patch the harness with their Ready harness service. There is no mid-range on the door speakers. All door speaker have very little output. Try adjusting the speaker output with the EQ but cannot get the sound right.

 

So you are trying to power the aftermarket door speakers with the aftermarket HU and trying to use the harness to connect the new HU to the existing stock speaker wires through the stock harness?

 

Yes I want to use the aftermarket head unit to power all speakers(dash right/left/center and front and rear door speakers). The way it is factory wired the amp only provides power to the left/right rear speakers. The front door speakers are connected to the side dash speakers. A local installer recommended bypassing the factory amp first to see if it will help.

 

No..
The dash speakers come straight off the HU.
The factory amp powers front and rear doors.
The front doors from the factory amp are mids and lows, Entune uses the dash speakers as tweeters.
Pretty sure the rears are full range from the factory amp since your double cab doesn't have rear door tweeters like the crewmax does...

You could buy one of these harnesses and wire it straight thru and that would bypass your factory amp.
It will have speaker output from the HU, front and rear, as well as speaker input, front and rear, to the doors.
You can search the forum and find an explanation of what color wire does what.
Or if needed I can find you a link.

https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html



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If your local installer told you the statement below, you need to run away as fast as possible and find another one.
The way it is factory wired the amp only provides power to the left/right rear speakers.
The front door speakers are connected to the side dash speakers.
I guess technically the front door speakers are connected to the dash speakers, since they have the same signal, but the door speaker signal goes through the amp.

Or better yet, do it yourself, it isn't that hard...

 

There seems to be two types of front speakers connection. Im guessing the the early 3rd gen the sound was coming directly from the HU. On some the wire comes from the amp to the dash and then to the door. If you disconnect the dash some how it disconnects the door speaker. Ive seen here that people will bridge the dash connector when deleting this speaker so they can get sound to the door.

Anyway OPs question is a different one. My guess is that the new radio is not “compatible” with the OEM amp. Im not a guru in this but I have read and learned some things. The biggest issue we have in our system is the amp under the seat. That is the first thing to replace. It has filters built in and cuts the bass. The reason to do this is because we have cheapy speakers. The HU is not the best but not terrible. I have heard good sound coming out of this OEM HU with aftermarket amp and speakers. For this you need a DSR1 or similar and an amp. The good thing is that you already started!

 

Thanks for all the replies. I guess my next step is purchasing a amp. Thinking of the Kicker key 180. It has all the power I need (45 watts) plus a built in DSP and mic used to auto tune the system. Or maybe the Alpine KTA 45U. Anyone care to comment on which is better or preferred and reasons why?

 

What speakers do u have? Overall I prefer Alpine over Kicker. The Alpine is only 45 x 4 rms, is that enough to run yr speakers?

 

FirstTruck,

Front door component from Memphis audio Toyota OEM fit PRXTY690C. 60/12 rms/peak power(6x9). Rear door Incriminatory Audio 165 two way 85 watts. (6-1/2).

 

Did you end up using the cable in post #4 to do the bypass?