What is this thing for?

I picked up a 2008 CM SR5 and I'm trying to figure out what the previous owner did. I see this purple wire connected to the rear of tube/channel for the air intake box. Any idea what this is and what's up with the random wire? It definitely looks aftermarket so I have no idea how/why the previous owner did this.

Thanks

 

Looks like an AIP (air injection pump) bypass. The purple is the trigger wires off the appropriate relay in the fuse box to make it work. Be happy it’s there! I made my own DIY and hid it a bit better in loom....but yeah, leave it be. Prevents the AIP pumps from running so they can never fail and put the truck into limp mode.

The other wires from that box run to the MAF, yes?

 

Yes! You're exactly right. Okay, dumb question... Why would this be needed? When would you trigger the need for the bypass? I read up on the module and it talks about clearing a bunch of codes. What would someone be doing to trigger those codes?

 

It’s usually done when the aip fails and the owner doesn’t want to pay Toyota hundreds of dollars to fix it.

Here is some info about it:

https://hewitt-tech.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=44

 

You mean thousands

 

What others have said as well, it’s a $4k+ fix if they fail cause of all the labor. The pumps are under the intake manifold at the rear of the motor. If you bypass them before they fail, they won’t run and can’t fail. The bypass is essentially tricking the trucks computer on start to think it’s below the temp threshold to need to run the pumps by disconnecting the MAF temp send for a half second or less at start, then reconnecting it so it reads temp normally. Simple circuit that looks complicated.

 

I think it was around $3400 to the dealer when my 2005 AIP went out.
But they did give me a free loaner even though I didn't buy the truck from them..

 

Thanks for all the info on this topic. Would have never thought of the need for this.

 

I didn’t realize it was that much. Did you get a free coffee and manicure too? $3400 is as ridiculous as my quote of $3000 for steering rack.

 

Hey, speaking of steering rack, can you tell me what your problem was? Did you have a post on it I could follow? I'm having weird steering issue myself, but not exactly sure how to describe or call the problem. The steering wheel just moves a lot (inch or 2) back and forth as you drive down a road. When you hit a slight imperfection, you can definitely notice the steering wheel move and you need to grab it to hold position.

I'll create a thread on it when I can better quantify and describe it. Thanks in advance.

 

After coming across this thread, I'm a little unclear about this. It sounds like the AIP might still be functional but is this something to prevent a failure? Once the AIP fails, can you still use a bypass system to get around it or are you SOL after that?

 

I think the truck goes in to limp mode and you get a CEL, but it can still be bypassed. Not 100% sure about limp mode.

 

Here is the thread about the steering rack failures.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/the...olutions-updated-10-2020-in-first-post.33539/

With mine, the ps pump started rattling and smoking at full turn. It took about 6 months, but I hit a curb doing a u turn and that caused it to finally give. All of the ps fluid leaked out. I was about 5 mi from home, so I hoped i could refill it and get home but as soon as I turned the wheel after filling it, all the fluid was gone on the ground. Had to get it towed. Toyota fixed it and USAA insurance covered it. I called them since I hit the curb and claimed it under comprehensive I believe.

 

On my 07 l got codes for aip valve stuck open and the truck went into limp mode. I purchased the Hewitt(I think) bypass kit for a couple hundred bucks and it totally solved my issue that was 3 state inspections ago
The kit consists of one bypass module that plugs in inline to the maf sensor and two blocking plates for the air injection tubes on the manifold

 

Also, block off plates aren’t needed if you do it before they fail cause the valves will be in the closed position.

 

Sorry for the hi-jack. I'm really thinking to put one on just as a preventive thing. I don't want to get stuck somewhere. Do these things go out more frequently in wet weather?

 

Yes I believe that is one of main causes
Like @kparrow stated you don’t need blocking plates if you bypass before you have an issue but I would by the kit for the plug n play bypass module so you don’t have to run wire across the engine bay and in the fuse/mod box

 

Enteresting. Both AIP's on my 07 and now 14 are located up above the front passenger tire hidden behind the plastic upper wheelwell liner. My SDHQ relocation kit hoses replaced the funky plastic AIP intake tube thingy that connects directly to the pump inlets. The relocation hoses connected directly onto the pump inlets.

 

I got a free loaner for a week while they repaired an 8 year vehicle I didn't even buy from them..

 

A good Yota dealer. Might as well mention them...

 

It’s the valves that are under the manifold I think

 

Rockwall Toyota
Rockwall Texas..
https://www.toyotaofrockwall.com/

Ended up buying my 2014 from them 2 years later for that very reason..
They've been good to me ever since..

 

....side bar....is that cold front coming our way in your neck of the woods yet?

 

Kuul. Crappy dealers get mentioned so it's good to mention the good one's...
I have had great service from my local dealers on the rare occasion I go there.

 

Rolling in today and looking like it’s gonna be about 55 all week and then continue to fall off after that

 

That is one of our Gen-I V54H bypass kits for the 2008-2012 vehicles. Prevents the system from running. It can be for prevention but most likely some valve stuck open codes that were causing limp mode.

 

Just curious if anyone knows the location of the valves on an 09 with a 4.0l? (I know, I know don't roast me too bad over the v6.) It was my grandpa's and I bought it after he passed a few months ago. Only 100k and I know it's well kept. Had a cool morning recently and popped the p2442. Googled on the spot and cleared it. Hasn't happened since, but I'm sure Murphy's Law will strike again soon, so I'm considering either a replacement or a bypass kit. Can't find much "4.0l Tundra" info online, but from the pics I've found of the valves I'm almost positive my SAIP valves are just above the pass side exhaust man rather than under the intake. Can anyone confirm? TIA