What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

That's what I was assuming. Any idea why I can't at least remove the bolt? It goes from feeling loose to tighter to loose on an endless loop. The pan isn't that expensive all things considered.

2 questions. Should I replace the transmission filter while I have it open and what sort of seal do I use? Will this work? I had it saved for the valve cover gasket job.

The filter is almost half the price of the pan so I'd rather not replace it unless it's a good idea. From what I heard it's really just a mesh screen.

https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-oil-pan-sealer-0029500103

 

Maybe try pulling down on the bolt and see if it catches. If it was installed without the washer, there might be a spot on the very end of the bolt where the washer sits that doesn't have threads.

 

I tried that with a pair of vice grips and didn't have any luck. I'll give it another shot.

 

Put a screw driver tween the pan and nut while applying pressure and then remove? But it sounds FUBAR

 

Wedge a slim paint knife between the bolt and pan to create leverage whilst simultaneously twisting nut off.

 

@FirstGenVol you can buy a helical to fit the bolt thread or buy a bigger bolt and make/thread the hole bigger.

 

That's interesting. What size would you recommend? Then I would just find a slightly bigger bolt I assume?

 

Use your same bolt. Find out that size bolt and just buy the coil to fit the old bolt. Screw it on and should be golden.

 

Constant pressure to allow it to catch, then continued pressure after it catches. If you have one of those door card popper tools used for taking door cards off, try using it.



You may find with the washer it'll hold, but if you have a tap/die set, you may be able to re-tap the hole to clean out the threads? Run a magnet over the area after.

 

This bolt isn't coming out. It's FUBAR'd indeed. I guess I'm ordering a new pan and bolt to be safe. There are 19 bolts that hold the pan in place. I will probably reuse them.

 

Since your down and out for now, before you order, maybe remove all those pan bolts to make sure they do indeed come out in ONE PIECE

 

Not a bad idea. I just don't understand what's happened to this bolt. I was tightening it and thought, "I should do this right and use my torque wrench". So I grabbed that and set it to 13ft lbs to be safe. I think the spec is closer to 20lbs(dry). That's the 2nd time I've f*cked up a bolt using that torque wrench. I won't make that mistake again. It doesn't make any sense that I can't get the bolt out. I can't even see any threads so it's really not even close. Tried prying it with a thin screwdriver and a paint scraper, no luck.

 

Was this your first drain and fill?
I’m not sure if the nut on the inside of the pan is welded to the pan or or almost a press fit, but I bet the nut let loose inside...... or the nut is stripped out.
And I’ve heard you can just clean the tranny filter as it is more a screen for big particulates, it’s not a coffee filter ammount of filtration

 

No I think this is my 3rd time. Never had an issue and I've always been careful because someone warned how thin that metal is. I think I'll skip the screen. I need @bmf4069 to weigh in as he's the only one I can remember dropping the pan. I'm going to message Roman and verify all the part numbers.

Need to know if this is the right sealant.

 

Orange fipg and the cork gasket I think was stock on the a340. The reason it spins is likely the threads are just gone enough to where the bolts basically trapped

 

No. You need the fipg for transaxle and gears

 

Washed and Waxed her today. AeroSpaced the tires and engine bay and added a couple zip ties to some wiring to finish off the Timing Belt Job. She is running so good right now. Stoked!

Parking Brake Equalizer Bushings will be arriving Saturday along with new wiper blades.

 

Permatex Ultra Black around it and let future you worry about it next fluid change.



I expect this will be PHMs reaction.

 

Haha. I found this outstanding write up about dropping the pan on the A340F. It's so detailed one would think PHM wrote it.

http://www.skjos.net/toyota/trans/tranny.html

 

I'm guessing they don't sell the cork gasket?
This guy just used the FIPG.

 

If you do decide to put in a new screen, then snug those Valve Body Bolts back to spec. There are many. IIRC something like 23 bolts. Torque Wrench in Inch Pounds.

 

Do you know the torque spec on those?

I think I'm going to go ahead and replace the filter. Timmy the Tool Man has a video and recommends it over trying to clean them. I'm going to have to buy a inch pound torque wrench. He also recommends this tool.

$28 JTC Engine Transmissions Oil Pan Separator KIT PAN Seal Cutter 1315

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07171ZQKY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8

 

I’m not sure. You can try internet searching and find the site I went down a hole on a few years ago. Can’t recall the site, but also try Sonnax for info as well. It actually might be on their site. Might as well do a Valve Body Rebuild for another $200.

 

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2764-zip-kit

 

You may want to confirm the calibration on your torque wrench, it may be f'd.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fybLYL0WfFY

 

That was me. Did them in June IIRC. They still look dark.
I would suggest doing another coat & just leave it alone. I didn't dry or buff, just left it to soak in & air dry.

 

I couldn't remember if it was you or 'bassman' so I was keeping my mouth shut. Thanks for posting about it! The stuff really works, better than Mother's competing project.

 

Well look what I finally have, was starting to have withdrawals not being able to drive the truck!
Beautifully made, fits like a glove, and you can see the hints of water inside the tank which means it’s been properly leak tested.