2.5", 4.5", 6"? Im lost!

Lotta hate for drop bracket kits.. but there is nothing wrong with them... they give you plenty of clearance with little issues. BDS and RC make good lifts, the BDS may be better but RC will get you the look you want and they back there stuff up and they cost a lot less. All lifts have issues here and there and will cause wear to your truck. All tundras look great lifted up! My last truck I lifted was a Tacoma and I put a 5100 lift in the front and block in the back... after I was finished, I will I would have gone bigger!

 

I went with Bilstein 6112s set at the highest setting 2.75" and 2" shackles in the rear, keeping the original rear shocks. Wheels are 18x 9 XD798 Addict with 295/70/18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers.

 

I appreciate all the feedback!

Im leaning towards the 3/1 lift, probably an Icon stage 2 or 3. Getting a few more quotes for the work to be done here in SoCal.

Next up, the tire thread!

 

Here’s your answer: Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Thank me later

 

If your near Escondido check out TE motorsports they are affiliated with Toyota of Escondido but don’t charge insane prices.

 

I'd highly recommend the Procomp 4" lift. I just did it. I had the same concerns. Unlike the 4.5" BDS, the Procomp does not require a rear crossmember chop in order to do the lift. This essintially means you get a 4" lift that could be diverted back to stock (if you absolutely had to for some type of warranty reason) because nothing is cut. Its basically all bolt on. Which ever rim size you get 35s clearing wont be an issue.

 

Im looking at those... The Grappler G2s, Toyo Open Country R/T and ATII, BFG AT NO2s, Goodyear Duratracs

Yeah Im all over the place haha

 

Bit too far south for me... unless im hitting up Stone or something. Im in the Irvine area, so Irvine/Lake Forest/Mission Viejo/Corona are easier to get to

 

I’ve heard good things about RT’s, if I had to pick any other tire it’d be those or Duratracs.

 

My biggest concern is going to be tread wear. Im a highway driver 99% of the time, so dont want a tire thats going to get eaten up by the road or doesnt grip well in rain or causes those precious MPGs to plunge

 

If you lift it and put bigger tires on it the MPGs are going to plunge. No way around that - physics wins.

 

Understood, but extra weight of a tire and possibly poor tread would cause the wheels to spin more or be harder to turn so the MPGs would suffer more.

I bought a Tundra and Im lifting it. The lack of MPGs is not lost on me

 

My RG’s seem to be wearing nicely, I’ll have a better idea on treadwear when I get the tires rotated in a week or so.

 

Cement 1 I know you with RC 6 inch but did you you any more mods? Trucks look great!!!

 

Lift on its own does not give you more clearance. If you install a bigger tire it will have to go somewhere as the suspension cycles; this means that the wheel well must be big enough and frame and body components must not interfere with where the tire travels or you have to limit suspension travel from stock. There are better ways of fitting a bigger tire than bolting on hundreds of pounds of heavy cast-iron parts. I'll take my smaller, lighter and forged steering knuckle (spindle) that can bend more prior to failure over a larger and heavier cast-iron part that requires me to use a wheel with 0mm of offset. There are lots of aspects to drop brackets that are inferior to other methods of fitting larger tires.

 

You make some good points but I don’t go off road much and the ride of then RC lift is better than any lifted truck I’ve ridden in. No steering wobble whatsoever , no shakes, no vibrations, it’s a blast to drive. And what I like the most about it is I can run 35’s and I don’t have to worry about running one bit. If I had it to do over again I would buy the same lift. I’m running -18 offset wheels, not 0....

 

Correction, rubbing one bit...lol

 

I'm thinking of going with the Bds 4.5 coil over yours look real good what size wheels & tires you have any cutting did they have to do or rub.

 

Most every truck that you see rolling 35’s or better have a drop bracket kit. I have been messing with lifted trucks since 1988.i have been to many ,many truck shows and jamborees and seen thousands of lifted trucks .I have seen them all, some good, some junky. Drop bracket kits back then were not great, but today’s big lifts are way better and have been engineered to be safer and Ride better. They are quality lift kits if installed correctly. I have seen drivers pound their drop bracket kits in the sandy Outer banks and in the mountains of Virginia without issues. Again, do your research and have fun with whatever you get.

 

Plenty of guys on here are running 35-37” tires without a bracket lift. I’m running skinny 35’s on 3” of lift myself. I have no doubt engineering on both non-bracket and bracket lifts have improved by leaps and bounds in the past 30 years.

 

Ive settled on the Icon Stage 3 lift. Going to run Icon Alloy Six Speeds with 35" BFG ATs.

Truck is in the paint shop now. Lift will be in 5-7 weeks.

 

35 Toyo Tires & 20” Fuel Maverick +20 offset
I trimmed a little plastic on the front because I had plastic rub when backing up but all good now!

 

This truck looks fantastic. nice job! Now I know what I need on mine.

 

I've had two sets of Toyo AT II on my previous Tundra. Very quiet on the highway up until the rubber got old. Once I had about 25k miles on them, they started to make noise, then I replaced them with same at 30k miles and nice and quiet again. I can't compare to anything other than the stock tires, but I was happy with the noise level on the freeway.

 

I realize this is an old post but I'm hoping for a response by chance. I'm looking to put a 6" either RC or BDS lift on my tundra. I see you're running -18 offset wheels which is also what I'm looking at doing. Did you have to do any cutting to fit your wheels/tire set up other than a body mount chop and the front fender liner??

 

Yes I did. Had the cut only the plastic at front bumper. But I think looking back now you may be able to use a heat gun to heat it up and push the plastic towards to front fender. I think I have an picture also

 

So you only had to modify the front and not the cab mount?

 

Correct