COMPLETED-Oil change time, need some advice....

***THIS POST IS FOR 1st GEN owners ONLY, SEC'y AND TURD GEN's need not reply.****

So I have had my truck 3 months now and put a little over 3k in miles and feel like I'm overdue for an oil change. The place I bought the truck from assured me that all the fluids were recently changed. ok....

1. I know that some say 5k, some say 3k some even 10k is best. always tried to stick to 3k/3months but not sure about 1st Gens. what schedule do you follow/recommend?
2. 5w-30 is standard from what I understand, but should I use synthetic or standard and what brand do you use/recommend.
3. should I stick with the M1-102-A filter or do the coffee can size M1-301a. What brand is preferred ( other than OEM ), is Mobil 1 is good enough?
4. Specs on 4.7 is 6.6 qts., correct?
5. Any other useful tips, tricks or advice much appreciated in advance....

I'm only 5'8" and going to go for the top down filter removal method and hope I don't fall in.

 

I had an '06 from '06 to '20

Mobil-1 Full Synthetic is all I ever used. As my miles got up there, I switched to the Mobile 1 Full Synthetic High Mileage, don't know if it mattered.
Only ever used the OEM filter.
6.5 qts

I never tried the top down method. Only 5 bolts to drop the skid plate.

 

I follow 5,000 OCI on all my vehicles. Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil only.

 

I run only Mobil one extended performance in all my cars. High mileage isn’t terrible to have but I’ve never used it. Got my 06 corolla to 880k with that oil and 20k OCI on it. The tundra gets the same diet but due to me driving so many cars these days I do it every 5k or 1 year. Same for the taco and Avalon


I do only run factory filters after many years of mobil filters. Cutting them open there’s no real reason to buy anything but the stock yzzd3 filter

 

You are exempt as a former 1st Gen owner.
Thanks for your advice.
Do I have to go to the Stealership for that OEM filter or is it available anywhere else?

 

I found the stealership filter to be be priced well. Cheaper than Amazon bulk

here’s roman’s shop @$3.76: https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-oil-filter-90915yzzd3?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM=


my local charges $4.21

 

You can actually get the oem at Walmart these days. Yzzd3 is the part number your looking for on the box.

 

Dealership, online dealers, Amazon. You won't find it at any parts' stores.

 

I have a 2019. So I’m just here for the popcorn...

 

here you go....Enjoy

 

The gasket OTOH tended to offset the cost savings unfortunately. Wish the parts guy would just throw it in with the filter. Oh well. You could always risk buying a fake with the bulk on Amazon.

Wally ended up being $6.97

 

1) 3-5k miles depending on driving style. Severe Service is defined as tow, lots of city driving, and driving in over 90° for extended periods. Highway miles are easier on the engine.

2) Buy the Yzzd-3 in bulk at around $4 a filter from stealer.

3) Use the Mobil 5w-30 High Mileage (either synthetic or the regular). Wallace wurrld cost is $22ish. Buy all your fluids here btw. They will deliver over $35 free.

4) Tips: Put an old towel under the filter before pulling it. You can use a short stick to push it under from laying under the truck. This will catch the flow excess. Its quite a bit. The flow is less if you do something I don’t recommend. After you drain all the plug oil I put the plug back on and start the engine for 3 seconds MAX. I then open the plug and whoa! a half quart of oil suddenly drains out.

Get a short ladder or step stool to help with height. A large set of channel locks helps break the initial tight bond of the filter (oil wrench works too). The wrench will compensate for lack of height. After that its all by feel. Make sure to wipe the oil cooler mating surface of its old oil before putting on the new filter. A nice thin layer of new oil on the ring before install is a nice touch.

A short stubby funnel is nice for the oil pourings. I use an upside down wiper fluid jug that was cut in half and screw it in to the filler neck thread.

6.5 quarts is the drain and fill.

Factory Spec fresh new engine fill is 7.1 quarts. I use somewhere between the two and like the level at the high dot on the dip stick.

 

Also, I listened to that Blackstone testing guy on a video recently. He said best max interval is 5k miles. I heard it with my eyes. Anyone else that says they went 12k miles and the oil is still good because Blackstone said can suck it!

 

On what? A 1970 Briggs and Stratton with worn rings?

 

I see the Turd Gens are starting to purposely attack over here on a regular basis. They are getting hostile in our territory @bmf4069 You went soft on these guys for a few weeks and look what happens!

 

@hagrid
Mr hagrid please take notice of the disclaimer on the OP. Your TURD gen opinion is neither relevent nor solicited. Not all tundras are created equal or as bad ass as the 1st Gens. kindly return to your overpriced tundra section of this site. Thanks.

 

I drove an 04 from 07 to 20 and used O'reilly brand high mileage full synthetic. Mileage interval depended on how hard the truck was working. Summer months pulling a boat and fully loaded would be more frequent.
Sold that beauty in July with zero mechanical issues and it didn't burn any oil.

 

I use 5w-30 Mobile 1 synthetic (6.5 quarts) with factory filters from an online Toyota dealer. I buy in bulk and they are inexpensive that way. I also use the specified drain plug gasket. 4-5 thousand mile oil change intervals since I don't put many miles on, and I can go 1 year between changes. Why get the filter from the top? That will be a long reach, I'm able to do it all from the bottom without jacking the truck up off the ground. Maybe you don't want to take off the engine splash shield? That only takes a couple of minutes and lets me clean it up a bit and survey things on the underside for any problems. Good luck, cheers.

 

No problemo, bud! We are all important individuals here.

 

04 with 280,000 here, running normal on 4-6k intervals and carrying heavy loads. from 200k to 250k i transitioned through partial syn to full syn- hi miles to normal syn. never leaked or burned oil. i periodically run a random high mile syn to condition seals for peace of mind. then back to standard syn for better fuel mileage. No leaks along the process. YMMV with maint history. edit- owned since new with conv oil changes, I had to convince my dad to let me takeover at 225k he was neglecting. No odd lube or maintenance issues in its history.

 

More like

 

Additionally, I am also in the southwest mojave. While rust and metal fatigue is rare, plastic and rubber dries like a blast furnace. treat any rubber and plastic as you maintain. chasing those vac, evap, egr, recirc, coolant, steering, trans, suspension grommets, and rubber hose rubber failures sucks. thats why i push a hi milage syn with gasket conditioners periodically. but i don't leak, or burn oii in 4-7k intervals so I prefer the gas savings on a traditional syn.

 

I'm in SoCal, and my 2001 has sat in the sun outside, no car house (garage that is) for 20 years now. No clear coat failure and I've never needed to replace anything rubber, with the exception of tires and wiper blades, even the hoses under the hood are still soft and pliable. I did replace the radiator hoses when I did the timing belt and h2o pump, but I remember that the belt and hoses looked fine at 70K miles. Whatever Toyota did then for quality, they did right. That's why I always buy OEM, more $ upfront, but usually worth the extra cost, you know as the Brits say, penny wise and pound foolish.

 

no offense, but so cal coastal and so cal needles are different animals on dry rot.

 

I run 5K intervals on my 4.7, with Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic with a WIX filter.
Oil brand is personal preference. Synthetic vs Non is mainly based on vehicle miles. Might even consider a high mileage based oil, which tend to have additives to keep seals moist. Interval is based off driving behavior/conditions. I’d recommend just pulling the filter from underneath. Rather easy and accessible, especially in a 2WD.....you gotta pull the drain plug anyway. I buy 1 5 qt jug at Walmart and 2 single quarts. I also look for mail in rebates from Pennzoil. Sometimes it makes diy changes pretty inexpensive.

 

FYI Mobil1 has a rebate on their oil until Sept 30: http://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/promotions/motor-oil-rebate-program-2020

Got $20 back for two 5qt jugs of High Mileage from Walmart @ $22.38 each. Cheaper than Costco's 5w-30 per qt after rebate.

 

None taken. I'm in the SoCal high desert. I can only wish I was able to live in Ventura or Malibu. I've got friends in Ventura and the salt air does a number on the cars and bikes, seems like all manufactures are affected. That is some corrosive stuff. Dry air is much nicer than salt air, but I'm just amazed at the way the clear coat has stood up to the sun after 20 years. Yeah Toyota.

 

Death valley eats suspension rubber, tires, belts hoses etc.. at 2% humidity 112 degrees. hard run tires dry rot in 3 years, and every rubber seal fails 15 years sooner than it should. clear coat peels immediately.

 

I like to run Dino oil at 3k and synthetic at 5k. Since owning my Turd, I’ve run 5k intervals with a WIX gold filter with no issues. Usually run Napa Synthetic 5W-30 but recently switched to Rotella Gas truck Synthetic 5W30. I always ran 6.5 QTS, but this time ran 7QTS. No reason really other than that with 7QTS brings the dipstick right at the full mark.