Brake fluid flush, how can I tell all the old stuff is gone? It's all clear to me...

I've used this in a few of my Corvettes and my WRX...great stuff, German and blue it might be just what your looking for, and they still make it.

 

I actually passed on the opportunity.

I had it typed that way and changed it. We're all Tundra owners and are here to learn and have a little fun. Besides, there's no wisdom to inflaming the natives when visiting in a strange country.

 

The Bosch DOT5.1 is far superior than any brake fluid out there for regular daily driving. It has extra lubricity and an extended service life even compared with say Motul 5.1. Le$$ too.

Hat tip to @empty_lord for the recco on Motul which started my research which lead me into the Bosch.

I read the sacrificial flush idea from a Bosch reviewer and since my Brake Nirvana Journey took multiple steps during the system shake down, I decided to do the idea.

First Step was learning how to bleed. The crap that came out was nasty and made me decide to rebuild the rear drum cylinders and upgrade from WE13 to WL13 Calipers.

Second step was learning how to rebuild brakes. Once they were done I performed a second full bleed. The fluid was better, but still had cack in it especially the proportioning valve.

Third bleeding was pushing in the new Bosch5.1. The DOT3 that came out was pretty clean all around.

Start at rear pass side... then prop valve... then driver rear... then pass front.. then driver front.

In order of the approx. amount of pumps to get fluid to the respective areas using the brake pedal pump method: 25, 20, 15, 15, 10.

 

Ahhhh...I came in at the ending of this movie. Thanks for the recap and knowledge!

Does DOT5.1 offer any advantages re corrosion resistance? Auto world needs something that prevents the cack.

 

Anytime. We’ll keep the Grey Poupon on the front shelf for you.

I wouldn’t know any of this without trying it first so it helps to explain it out loud. Thank you for your inputs. We enjoy the razzings.

 

What is the prop valve? How do you bleed it?

 

Proportioning valve. If you have a 19 then you don’t have one. Proportioning is done in the abs actuator.

https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota__Tundra/Brake-Proportioning-Valve/63117773/4791034070.html

 

@bmf4069

 

Tim had me covered on that one. I'll let the turd gen guy escort the turd gen guy out.

 

This "turd gen guy" talking point is getting pretty annoying. I thought this was a site that promoted all of our Tundra's. It would be like me suggesting that you can't afford anything other then an 18 year old truck and we should all disregard the things you post because of it. Pretty lame.

 

Easy killer. It's just poking fun and all in jest. We have nothing against y'all in the least. It's just a fun way for us to let them know they posted in the wrong section. If you want, you can refer to us as worst gen. See? It rhymes. All in good fun.

 

Awesome writeup PHM. After performing the first stage of the flush this weekend, I was not quite satisfied with the brake pedal feel.

From reading about the prop valve in your notes last night, I went back out there to further bleed that first thing this a.m. (working from home can be awesome!). I did notice that bleeder valve while replacing a rear brake line and hose last week, but I only bled at the wheels. It looked pretty crusty with rust, so I didn't want to touch it initially.

FYI, there's also the bleeder valve at the top of the master cylinder, any reason to bleed from there if the reservoir never ran dry?

One other question, what is the size of the bleeder bolt on your 13WL calipers? The rear wheels are 10mm. It's annoying that they are not all the same.

 

Thank you. I’ve never bleed from the MC so can’t answer your question. I suppose it can’t hurt to bleed it whilst doing all the other work.

I believe the front WL13 is an 8mm (Or 11mm?). My old WE13 were the same as the rears. I can’t remember because I bought self bleeders which changed the MM size again. I’m confused about this.

How’d the fluid look from the prop valve?

 

Clean. Everything had to be run through it in order to get to the wheels anyways, so expected that. I just wanted to be sure there are no lingering air pockets.

Brake pedal might be a bit better now, but since I can't do any objective A/B testing with how it felt before, it's very difficult to tell.

My next steps are to get the rear drums apart to assess the condition of the pads and pistons, as well as adjust the rear parking brake auto-adjusters. (<oxymoron)

Oh, I feel that the WL13 OEM bleeder bolt is 8mm. I'll need to buy a wrench for that size now.

 

No need to bleed there. As you surmised, it's allows for bleeding of the MC -- only necessary if it was run dry, removed, or replaced.

 

Here's what it looks like... and its not coke

 

13WL = 8mm
13WE and rears = 10mm

 

It looks like copenhagen juice....