What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yeah, not like sub bass, but definitely a very noticeable improvement. I think at different frequencies the speaker was actually sucking back in to the housing because the sound wasn't always super horrible.

 

I mean it's still a stock system, but when the front speakers were blown, any even slightly significant bass would render the speakers useless. Essentially the only thing they were good for before repairing them was talk radio...at least in my case.

 

Today I will be trying to remove the spare tire and check its condition. Mainly to make sure my spare tire kit system works, and that my tire is okay incase of an emergency. We are soon approaching rust proof undercoat season also

 

I can tell you the condition mine is in... cloudy with a high chance of rust.

 

What's better? using woolwax or grease for frame undercoating.. or is one just easier then an another?. My plan is to spray pb blast up in the frame enclosed section and in other already rusty spots. I'm going to wait a full 2 days after that to rub red n tacky grease all over easy to get to spots that tend to rust (pinch welds). Then I'm gonna wait a whole week after that then spray the crap out of my frame with woolwax cause I just bought 12 black cans ( that's enough for 2 thorough times). Does that sound like a good plan? May sound overboard but I live in Illinois and want this truck to be around the majority of my life
E

 

Back at the shop once more...

Stupid passenger upper ball joint's torn again, has no grease, and is putting up a fit, noise-wise. It's OEM, so I'm going with ACDelco this time to see if it lasts any longer than a year with barely any offroading. All suspension components have been replaced within the past year except bearings. UBJs were such a pain when I did them with my mechanic friend, that's why I'm having the shop tackle them.

Anyone ever seen to have premature wear on these? There's got to be some kind of protector I can put over the fragile boot, like those Velcro CV axle covers.

 

I can't remember if you are lifted up front? Were the boots at a weird angle? I wouldn't expect AC delco BJ's to last longer than OEM.

 

Are the stop speakers in these trucks worth anything? I saved mine for no good reason. They were fine, not dry rotted that I recall.

 

Yeah I'm running Bilstein 5100's at the second or third notch from the bottom, not much of a lift maybe 1"?

 

I would post some pictures of your upper ball joints. You might need upper control arms.

 

I'll buy them!

 

There's your answer...

 

Lol why? I just replaced them 3 months ago

 

I'll go hunt it all down and confirm condition. I have the front and rear for sure, and the tweeters, but those wouldn't come with their mounting bracket, I had to re-use that with the new tweets. I'll ping you when I track it all down.

 

You have aftermarket UCA's? My bad. I can't keep up with everyone and you didn't mention that earlier when I asked about the lift. I'm just trying to brain storm why your UBJ boots tore so fast.

 

No worries, there's always some chatter to sift through. Basically I was saying all suspension components have been replaced within the past year excluding wheel bearings. The UCAs are Moog.

Shop just said LBJs (OEM) are shot too. At least can change those myself.

 

Was told the Brute Force Sliders & Rear bumper is completed and paid the second half of that. Very excited to get those in!

 

I’ve got sliders paid for, just waiting for a form of transport. At the latest I’ll have them by turkey day.......
I bet you’ve been waiting for that email/phone call for a while!

 

I reached out about 3 days after 12 weeks and was told about 3 more days. Didn't get pictures but hopefully, things are coming as scheduled.


MY bigger frustration/wait is the ArchiveGarage leaf springs. Those were meant to ship back in July.....truck is already sagging in the rear and it's only going to get way worse with the added weight....not sure what I'm going to do there.

 

Here's the deal. Surrounds are woven and still good (my truck only has 68k miles). However, for sake of ease on removal for the type of replacement I put in, I cut the adapters off. Easy solder fix, except I'm only seeing two of the adapters

Anyway, they're here and available. I don't necessarily need them, I was keeping these and the amp in case I ever needed to roll back.

 

Found out that the reason my tailgate latch was moving around so much was because the catch plastic that holds the two meta nuts were broken on each side. Went with an aftermarket cheapo off Amazon because I didn’t want to spend the $110 for a white color matched oem one. After installing this one I think I may return it and do the spendy one since this one is super sloppy fitting and I don’t really care for it.

 

Funny thing I just replaced mine yesterday too and the replacement was loose as well. Taking a closer look I found the bottom side of the handle opening was slightly bent and the right side mounting bracket was also tweaked.

Used a rubber coated glove and a pair of vise grips to gently straighten both out and it now fits very snug. Looking at your pic of say you have at least the bent bracket since the handle looks a little crooked to the top right.

 

yeah I know I tweaked it yesterday when I was trying to remove the old bracket. I'll check that out today. Thanks

 

I live in Illinois as well and that's what I did. I rubbed the main frame rails and other frame parts as well as i could with grease, then hit the whole underside with woolwax to get all the nooks and crannies I couldn't reach by hand with the grease. I bought the woolwax gun with the extension wand which is nice for hitting inside the box sections and in all the hard to reach places, and up inside the body panels.

I think the main benefit to the grease is that it won't wash off, I did it 6 months ago and there is no sign of the grease wearing/washing off. The woolwax is still mostly there, especially under the body and bed where there isn't much water spray. Certainly can't hurt to do both if you have the time.

 

Operation Timing Belt started today.

1) Removed skid. 3 of 5 bolts were already broken by prior goofy mechanic. Will be ordering more.

2) Banged out dents in skid. Cleaned and painted both skid and side skirts. Removed/Cleaned and Fuzed the old foam back on.

3) Grease Rubbed open area now that skid has been removed. I’ve never removed it so there are areas that needed attention. Sprayed some Lithium PB Penetrant on the backside of front bumper and used my grease sponge all up in there.

4) Removed Thermostat and drained coolant. Goofy mechanic had thermostat in upside down as wobble bleeder was at bottom. Added flush product with distilled water. Engine never got over 140° with Thermostat removed. Water is turning a slight brown color. Old coolant was pretty clean at around 1 year old. Engine Horsepower is lower with abnormally cool engine. Will keep product in for another day or two.

 

I'm shocked you've never removed your skid plate. You must have really long arms if you can reach that oil filter from above.

 

I do my oil filter from above.

 

Same here. Nice set of large channel locks helps loosen the filter if needed. Put a fiber mat under the filter prior to catch the little bits of outflow from spilling on top of skid plate. Gorilla Arm Technique combo’d with No Look Swirl Technique for the win.

 

Really? I thought everyone just reached down and grabbed it without moving the skid plate.

 

To be honest I've never really tried that hard but I'm 5'8" so I'd likely have to do the Tom Cruise move that was recommended in the past.