My 2001 TRD Access Cab Repair/Modify Thread

Quick update...

I'm getting to a point where the updates will be few and far between!

I got home from work early today, so l removed the seats and commenced to scrubbing the carpet. Filthy doesn't even come close. There was so much crap under the driver's seat, I'm surprised it even cleaned up.

Carpet looks so much better now. I thought about buying new carpet, because of all the food/coffee/drink stains, but honestly, I'm happy with how it cleaned up.

Driver's side... it was incredibly dirty, but looks great now. You can see the heel wear right in the middle of the foot well. That's about the Worst area.





Here's the passenger side. It was covered with what appeared to be coffee or soda stains, but they all seemed to clean up.



I managed to break every bolt head off when removing the center console, so I've got some more holes to drill and tap.

Heres the vacuum after I finished cleaning the carpet. No surprises there. That water was about as black as you would imagine.



So, after 19 years, the carpet is clean again. Tomorrow I'll be working on the seats, and hopefully repairing the cracks with this 3M kit I bought.


More to come...

 

It's come a long way! I've enjoyed the progress you've made; it's inspirational if nothing else. I don't have the rust, but mine needs a lot of TLC.

 

You'll get the carpet even cleaner if you go the full 9 and pull it out. You're almost there already. Just remove the door sills, kick panel and rear panel, then pull that thing out. Hit it with degreaser (I use purple power) for a few minutes, hit it with a scrub brush, then power washer. You'll be amazed at how much black water still comes out. Drape it in the sun the on something and it will be dry in a few hours.

Do the same thing to the chairs, if they are fabric.

I speak from experience on this one. Brought my 2006 back to looking brand new. Brand new with a couple seat tears, but still new looking fabric and carpet.

 

I thought about it, and honestly I was going to see how it looked today after drying overnight, potentially removing it if it didn't look good, but I'm happy with the outcome.

 

Update:

Got the interior all reinstalled after spending yesterday afternoon touching up the multitude of cracks in the front seats. Not super happy with how it came out, but it looks marginally better than before.

After finishing all the interior stuff, I took it for it's first official shake-down run. It runs good and drives like it should.
The front end is all out of whack, but it's getting an alignment in the morning.

One thing I noticed which has me concerned, is as I'm coming to a stop, the ABS pump is goin nuts. I've spent the last hour reading through some rather interesting threads about soft brake pedals, ABS bleeding and Rear brake adjusting.

It looks like I have some more bleeding to do.


Completed interior, Driver's side


And the completed passenger side:


I had the floor mats for the rear from my old S-10 that died 3 years ago.

More to come...

 

Here's something that may be of value concerning an alignment.

N84434

 

Thanks much Yardbird!

 

I just finished replacing the brake lines on my front end. This was the worst place that rust can ever get to. I see that you also replaced all of yours, when I found the tell tale markings on the factory steel lines! The pads and rotors were acceptable, so I'm keeping them for now. The caliper guide pins were a disaster. I had to change those out.

I'm trying to get to the rear brakes now, and I'm at wits end. The darn wheels won't come off the drums. It's like their welded in place. I'm giving it many swift kicks, but no go. I'm using PB blaster and let it work over a few days to see if that may help. Any tips for dealing with this?

 

IIR, there are threaded holes in the drum that should allow you to thread a bolt into the drum and assist in getting the drum to break free. Mine came off fairly easily, so I just pulled, and they came off. Have you tried to back the adjuster off a few clicks, to see if that would help?

 

This^^ make sure the brake shoes aren't dug into the hub. Back the star adjuster off. Look up the size bolts you need, get two of them and you use them to insert into the threaded holes. Alternate tightening them down, but again make sure the shoes aren't dug into the rotor while doing this. As the hubs wear down, an indentation forms and it the shoes can get hung up in there if you don't loosen them.

I had a 2006 and did the rear brakes just a few months back. I'm in So Cal so I don't have to deal with the rust but I still had to go to Home Depot and grab a couple bolts to screw down to get the hubs to come off.

 

I read right past that part.. This happens a lot. Have you tried this with the spare?

 

Ooh, that's a good one. Let me try that.

Thank you.

 

Mine did that when the rears were adjusted too tight and they got hot. I had to whack em with a rubber mallet to get the wheels off. I'm betting your rears are adjusted a little tight.

 

Thanks, but I'm not actually at that junction yet. Unfortunately, I'm just trying to remove the wheel/tire.

 

Yeah, I've had this occur more than a few times. The last time was on my grandson's room mate's 4Runner. When a piece of 2X4 & a sledge hammer didn't do it, we tried a 6' pipe with leverage and finally went to a hydraulic jack and a length of 2X4 between the tires and finally got it to pop. Good luck!

 

You can try removing the lug nuts and lowering the tire so as to put the weight of the truck on the tire. Just be mindful of your studs.

 

I have a few comments/questions regarding your seat fixes:

From what I can tell, the improvements are great. How did you do it?

You show a good before shot in post #71, but the after shot in post #95 isn't as detailed. Can you post an after shot that's similar to the before shot?

 

Yep, I've been to this movie. I happens on my Tundra and 4Runner (Land Cruiser not so much). I have no suggestions other than generous amounts of PB Blaster and brute force. I slither under the car (carefully) with a large dead blow hammer, and strike the wheels, not the tire. Do remember to thread one or two nuts back on so the wheel doesn't fly away once you finally get it loose.

Afterward, I use emery cloth to clean up the hub and inside of the wheel. There's some kind of galvanic reaction (dissimilar metals) that takes place between the wheel and the hub. Keeping it smooth and clean will make it easier the next time (like when you're trying to change a flat at night in the rain...).

 

I wasn’t super proud of the end result, hence the minimalistic pictures. I used a 3M kit purchased through Amazon which does work well, but I just couldn’t get the colors to match perfectly. Might have something to do with color blindness.

Here’s a close up shot of the driver’s seat for you;




My plan is to replace the seat bottom in the spring, but we’ll see....

 

Makes me want to clean up my interior! Great work!

For the ABS, mine was very touchy and I couldn't figure it out so I gave up and pulled the fuses (ghetto, but functional)

 

I bled the brakes and drove it this afternoon with the fuses pulled, and it stops great. The pedal feels good and the truck stops straight. Putting the fuses back re-creates the same scenario where the ABS motor runs between 2-4 mph. I’ll have to go buy a couple of bottles of fluid and try again this week. I’m using my Power Bleeder, which I’ve always had great success using.

if you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up. They are so choice....

$73 Motive Products 0108 Late Model GM Compatible Power Bleeder 2-Quart Tank with Hose and Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK9FE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vguAFbT7YZ0K7

 

I was just using my 10+ year old Motive unit this w/e. Unfortunately, the hoses were so old, it actually cracked while I was using it. Bloody mess of fluid dripped down below the master cylinder.

Also good to have a $1 store turkey baster to remove excess fluid from the truck's reservoir when all is complete.

 

Man this thread makes me wince for you guys up north. I had my uncle bring his 1st gen down from Michigan to address some rust. Found him a new bed at the junk yard as his was completely rusted. Replaced all the rear brakes, brake lines, and the spare tire Lift thing too. What reaaaaaally sucks is apparently now there is a hole rusted in the diff and I’m trying to track him down a Complete rear axle to swap in the next time he’s down. It’s just seeping as of right now. Rust is a real B.

You’re doing good work sir!

 

Thanks Rub.. I thought about picking up a southern truck and driving it back up here, but the prices were way more than I wanted to lay out, so, I ended up with a cheap basket case thats all sorted now.

 

I haven't posted in this thread in a while, as I've had a health setback (Kidney Stones requiring surgery) so I've been taking It real easy each day. Don't want to be too bossy, but stop what you're doing and get a glass of water!
I was supposed to get the front end aligned last Saturday, but I was in the hospital, so, yeah, that didn't happen....
I ordered a set of AVS vent shades, and installed them today (no pictures, I'll grab a few tomorrow)
I have to say, I like em. I know they're not everyone's favorite, but I like them.
Going to try for the alignment tomorrow morning, so we'll see how I feel...

 

Ouch, feel better soon! Also considering the vent shades, looking forward to pics when you're feeling up to it.

 

Well, I timed a quick trip to the alignment shop between trips to the bathroom (I have a stent between my left kidney and bladder which has increased bathroom breaks ten fold) and just got home from retrieving the truck. They got it in specs and it drives nice and straight. Can't ask for more than that...

Also grabbed a few pics of the AVS vent shades installed. Again, I like 'em..

You be the judge.






At this point I just need to bleed the brakes thoroughly and it'll be ready to drive. I've got everything in hand to accomplish the Timing Belt swap but little by little, I'm running out of things to do on it.
I'm not sure what recovery time is on the 2 surgeries I have to have, so it may be a month or more before I swap out the belt and water pump.

Something to look forward to.


More to come...

 

Thanks Steve appreciated!

pics posted.

 

Looks good. Adhesive mounted?

 

Yeah. Quick and easy.