Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Balancing issues show up around 55-65mph and it's there all the time at those speeds. Shaking while going down hill sounds like a brake issue.

 

Thank you. Does it matter which crossmember I should put the level on?

 

If you have running boards sit the level on it or the the underside of the frame rail under the driver or passenger door front to back. I'm assuming side to side is level already.

 

The torque converter in my 2007 5.7L Toyota Tundra is acting up with a shudder at low speeds when I let off the gas. There was a TSB for this issue (TC018-07 Revised) but previous owners ignored it... I'm at 294,000 miles now so no help from Toyota.

My Question: what is a fair price to pay a Toyota mechanic to correctly replace the old TC with a brand new OEM TC that the customer supplies?

 

Sorry but I can't answer "what it would cost" questions. As a tech your not involved in pricing. You should be able to look up a labour time online and apply your dealer rate to get a price.

 

Would it be better to do the toyota brake service with them resurfacing the rotors or replace the rotors themselves? They have 44529 miles on them.

 

@LOTSOFTOYS still on here? Who's our Toyota mechanic

 

@Ruggybuggy has been gracious enough to step into the void. @LOTSOFTOYS has been MIA since 2018

 

I'm definitely not a mechanic but I've been dealing with my own vehicle maintenance for over 40 years. My understanding regarding rotors is that they are just fine to be turned (with a lathe smoothing the surface) as long as they are still thick enough. New rotors after <50k miles?!? I would be furious if my rotors only lasted that long!

That said, manufacturers seem to be designing the rotors thinner in general than they used to, resulting in more frequent rotor issues and the need to replace them earlier.

 

Is this the reason for your shaking steering wheel? Upon inspection were the rotors rusted? How much brake pad material is left?

 

I am assuming that is the reason. I looked at it yesterday and it doesn't seem rusted. Was not smooth when I ran my finger across it. Havent pulled the wheel to look at the pads yet.

 

Yeah I would be too. With some research they recommended resurfacing at around 45k and replacing the rotors at 90k.

 

For oem rotors they are around $70 each. Good aftermarket $50 each. Turning a set of rotors about 25-35 each but varies. Turned rotors are more likely to warp again because they are thinner. Always new pads on turned or new rotors.

 

Looking to upgrade to Stainless steel brake lines.
Why do some power stop line kits list this disclaimer?

-Without Vehicle Stability Control

Are they saying the kit does not contain control or is it not to be used on vehicles with VSC?




https://www.carid.com/powerstop/sta...ront-and-rear-brake-hose-kit-mpn-bh00130.html

 

Personally I've never performed this upgrade so not sure why. Maybe some else whose done this will know.

Can you call them and ask the reason why? My guess would be the parts for VSC Tundra's is different.

 

Hey there I was wondering when you see the fuel pumps on the tundras go? I have a 2014 trd and the fuel pump just went over the weekend. Seemed a little soon but maybe that’s on the early end of normal?

 

The Tundra fuel pump is very reliable. They did have a problem with wiring to the pump from the fuel pump module. It was more common where road salt is used. Many Tundra pumps have been replaced accidentally because of the power supply problem.

I do remember one Tundra that came in and we replaced the pump because the fuel pressure would bleed down and cause a hard prolong start after being shut down for a couple of hours.

 

I'm at a loss on my battery drain issues. Removing the ecu-b1 fuse cuts my amp drain from .22 to .08. from there disconnecting my remote start drops it to a further .03. Only logical thing I can think is the remote start is draining the battery but looking online I'm not sure what's tied into that ecu-b1 fuse. I have also just unhooked the remote start module overnight with no difference.

 

Your battery drain can never be zero. There's the ignition disable system (that little flashing red light that's always looking for your key), there's the evaporative system that's managing fuel vapor over the course of time and temperature changes and probably a few other systems.

 

True but battery drain shouldn't ever be that high.

 

I know that I've read what Toyota claims is within range, but I wasn't able to find it since my reply. What might you consider or have read as acceptable? Let us know as a refresher please.

 

Anything above .05 is considered high

 

Full disclosure on my part. I am no long a Toyota automotive technician. After two hand surgeries to repair capal tunnel issues in both hands and a lengthy recovery time of more than a year it was decided by my doctor that any further hand vibrations could cause perment damage. Thirty five years of vibration from impact tools and heavy work have taken their toll. Toyota has just removed my access to inforstream so I will be limited in the help I can provide on this forum. I will still offer up my experience in the knowledge I have gained over the years.

 

are you seeing any new tundras come in with a pull to the right? there is a tsb on it. is there setting s to correct it

 

Dang, man. I hope you fully recover and can enjoy retirement!

Thank you for sharing your experience and wisdom with us.

 

Yikes, that's sudden. Or maybe it's something where you actually saw that writing on the wall. Either way, sorry to hear. It's pretty messed up how doing your job can cause such trauma and damage to the body that it renders you incapable of doing your job. Thanks for your help up to this point and your willingness to carry on in what help you're still able. Thanks!

 

Man I hate to hear that! Thanks for all your help in the past! But your knowledge goes WAY beyond Infostream!

 

Yeah, but you didn't turn-in your brain and experience when you left. You've already been a big help here.

The worst thing about losing Techstream is not having access to the SRM. I don't know how to do it, but I THINK some have paid for short-term access, and then downloaded the entire SRM. The SRM must be up to 20K pages by now.

 

Thanks everyone for the kind words. As far as my recovery my hands are pretty good. I can still do the things Iike to do like ride my motorcycle, bike, hike and exercise. You wouldn't even know I have any issues. It takes a long time for nerves to heal and continuing in the profession would cause further damage so it's best to get out while I can. I dont want to be a 70 year old man that can't use his hands. Most techs dont make it in the profession past 60. Two other former Toyota techs that are friends of mine have since retired both have knee and back issues. One is the same age as me, 57 and can't stand or walk more than a couple hours before needing a break because of pain. He also had both his hand done and one elbow surgery for his ulnar nerve. It really is a tough occupation on the body. I'm glad I got out in the condition that I'm in.

I will continue to help on the forum. I enjoy problem solving.

 

There are no issues with pulling to the right. It's the same suspension since 2007. Most common problem causing pulling is tires. Swap the two front tires from left to right and see if the pull goes away.