6112 Setting and Tire/Wheel Combo Thread.

Both.


The 20" wheels that come on the sport don't help, but if you're doing things in order of cost to achieve a ride that's satisfactory to you, I would go in this order and drive for a while until you don't throw up after a trip.

1. Add weight to the bed.
2. Change the shocks to Platinum or 1794. (Without looking it up, the stock SR5 and Limited shocks may be the same)
3. Consider 17" or 18" wheels.

 

I would recommend both front and rear. I've never been impressed with Toyota OEM shocks, with the exception of the TRD Pro shocks of course. If you don't go with the Pro suspension, I'd recommend good quality aftermarket coilovers up front, like the Bilstein 6112s or the more expensive Fox or King coilovers, preferably at least 2.5" diameter shocks. For the rear, I'd go with Bilsten 5160s or any of the Fox or King rear shock options.

Not sure if the Pro uses a different leaf pack than the non-Pros. The stock leaf pack is OK, nothing to write home about. But all solid rear axle leaf packs feel harsh - just the nature of that kind of platform. You can smooth things out a bit by replacing the stock overload leaf with replacement leaves - but then you might lose tow/haul capacity. You could try a whole new complete leaf pack replacement. Although I've never tried them, I've heard good things about Alcan and Deaver leaf packs, with the Deaver leaf packs being made more for off-road and not necessarily cargo-carrying capacity. Not sure if you have any local shops near you, but here in the DFW area there are local shops that can actually make your own leaf custom leaf pack for about the same cost, and if something goes wrong you can always go back to the shop. Just thought I'd mention the leaf pack as another option.

 

It doesn't really make sense to buy a TRD Sport and then swap out the shocks for SR5 shocks and the wheels for 17" or 18" wheels. I would then just buy a SR5 if that's your priorities.

 

Yeah, I messed up. Picked the sport because of the look + I got a good discount. Kind of like chasing after that pretty girl in high school and then realized she is not all that.... It's alright, life is too short.

 

I am now searching 2nd hand wheels/tires to replace stocks 275/55R20 on my "Sport". What 17" tires would be a drop in without any kind of mods. 275/70R17? 275/65R17? Please advise

 

I'm pretty sure 99% of 17" wheels won't clear the brakes. I think I've seen two models on here that work - 1 is the TRD Rock Warrior wheels that are discontinued. Not sure what the aftermarket 17" were.

 

Ok 18" wheels it is to keep things simple. Thank you all

 

I would suggest you drive it first and see how you feel about it. Why spend the money on new wheels if you don't know if it is needed yet.

 

Lots of guys on here are running 17 in wheels made by icon. They dont clear by much and balancing weights have to be added towards the inner edge or the caliper will strip them right off. But... Icon makes some sweet options with offsets in the +25 range that make them great options.

 

"I woulds you drive it first and see how you feel about it. Why spend the money on new wheels if you don't know if it is needed yet"

I dont think Toyota has a trim line that uses Trd sport shocks with 18" wheels. I will just look for a used set to try, if i don't like, i would just lose a few hundred bucks.

 

Method Wheels and Icon Wheels are at least two brands I know of that make 17” wheels that fit over the front calipers. I think there might be some other brand that does so as well, but I’m drawing a blank.

I’m currently running 17” Icon Rebounds with +25 offset. I really like them. When I was shopping for tires, 17” tires were considerably less expensive than comparable 18” tires. Not sure if it’s still that way now, though.

 

This, yes. Doing some late night number crunching recently I figured the money saved on an equivalent set of 4 tires would pay for one of the 17'' rims.

 

I haven't compared the price difference lately, so it's good to hear they're still cheaper. In the long run, as you go to replace them with more sets throughout the life of the vehicle, the savings will be even more.

 

I can finally add to this thread. I have been stalking it for a few years even though I have only had my Tundra 3 months. It helped me figure out what I wanted to do so I will share my set up for others who are researching.

Front-
6112's at 2.5" with 1 DS shim. Stock UCA's and the alignment numbers came out pretty good. Removed all front mud flaps and trimmed and tucked the front wheel liner as well as a skid plate trim to make sure I wouldn't have any rubbing issues which I don't so far. No diff drop and the CV's look pretty good, I'm sure the front will settle a bit as I got close to a full 3" in front but have only put about 50 miles on it since the install.

Rear-
5110's with supreme suspension 1.5" shackles and did a CB carrier bearing drop.

Tires-
295/70/18 Dick Cepek trail country exp on stock TRD OF wheels and no spacers. They clear the UCA's by about a figure tip which I am good with.

The front took about 3 hours to do by myself with my 9 year old helping. The rear took about 2 hours or so. Not to bad but it wasn't my first time either.

 

Looks like you did your homework! Looks great!

 

If you wait patiently you can even get 15 - 25% off on a good sale. Cant really afford NOT to buy em when you think about it. They almost pay for themselves when you consider weight savings over the long term. Less wear and tear on drivetrain and efficiency. Shoot it’s like making money. I may retire early.

 

It's a solid argument.

 

Did my 6112 at 1.9, no shims, and 5160 a couple weeks ago. Just got new shoes....Toyo open country at3's 275/70/18. Rides better than the P rated crossteks that were on there prior

 

How big of a lift do you get with 6112 on top setting with 2 shims CB shims per side?

 

I would assume 3 1/2...

 

Sorry if I missed your update post but how did you make out? Any pics??

 

came out great. Taking me a minute to get used to the height but so far so good. Rides well and looking to see how it goes with my shell thats being built now.

 

Damn that looks great. I love the bronze wheels.

 

thank you! Just need to get rid of the Bolts and replace with Black ones LOL

 

If you want the smoothest ride, going with the Fox shocks off a TRD Pro would be your best bet. Expensive yes, but if you want the smoothest OEM ride possible for your Tundra at stock ride height, it is your best option. I will be putting them on my 18 Platinum, as I am beyond impressed with how smooth they are on my Pro 4Runner.

Also be sure to check your tire pressure. I put Cooper AT3 XLT’s on my truck and the shop greatly overpressured them. Took them down to correct pressure and ride improved significantly.

 

I am on 1.9 setting with 2 CB shims on driver anyone else having issues with UCA hitting coils?

 

How does the ride on the 5160's compare to the 5100's in back? My OCD is getting the best of me and am thinking about going to 6112's and 5160's. I have the Icon leaf expansion pack in back to gain 1" of rake for my dirt bike carrying trips (almost every weekend). Might have some 5100's for sale....only 1,000 miles on them

 

If you’re using the truck almost every weekend for dirt biking, I would go with the 5160 shocks. They are built for off roading. I did have a set of Bilstein 5100 on a older Tundra, and the ride felt the same. Ride is firmer, stable, absorbs bumps. But go with the 5160, looks better with the truck. Post some pics when you finish.

 

Thanks for you input, much appreciated!! Maybe have to do it in stages as I am also thinking about an exhaust. Maybe get the back shocks first, then exhaust, then the fronts...damn money tree needs to produce more

 

did the Icon pack give you more than 1" of lift, before it settled down to 1"? I have 6112's (@ 2.5") and 5160's (no lift), but I'm going to install the Icon pack soon.