What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

If you plan on staying in that area, I’d say stick with the pros. The maxx’s are alright in mud but won’t have the bite the pros do in that muddy clay. Glad to hear you like them, they seem very popular out here.

 

Scored some free DEXIII today along with some Fireworks purchased back in 2003 per the receipt in the bag. These are shmancy Fireworks that do cool things. Also, scored some free fresh 10w-30 quarts of unopened oil and gave those to the yard guy working across the street. He has a Chevy Truck and was stoked, as its what it uses.

 

What's your guys comfort level with this nut/bolt. I'm installing these sliders and the bolts they supplied should really be a tad longer. I even had to leave out the lock washer and this is as far as I can go. This is the worst one as the frame is thicker here. I can go a few more threads on the rest.

Would you skip the washer on this side?

 

I’d try to get the bolt at least to the end on the nut. Right now, things look sketchy. Not sure if the washer removal would even help your situation.

 

Why not just get some longer bolts?

 

Well I'm halfway into the job and a little pissed that I paid this much for sliders that didn't come with proper hardware.

 

Bilstein 5100’s Front and back. ☑️ 3rd or middle notch.

 

Very few things I've ever purchased have come with adequate hardware. A fact of life I don't like, but have come to accept.

Now is your chance to use metric bolts. Thats what I would use anyway. I hate having metric/standard on the same piece of equipment.

I would pay a little extra for lock-nuts.

That way in the future you can break out one set of tools, and not both.

 

I'd complain to the vendor. Clearly you need a bolt that's t least 1-2cm longer. And I also prefer poly-lock nuts and I always try to use washers for bolt-on chassis parts.

 

Well I never suggested being happy about it but I would also do whatever it takes to make it right in the end.
I would insist on the place you got them supplying the right part and if no joy there just get them myself.

definitely sucks though!

 

Yeah. He’ll need to remove and reset for another day unless this is just one bolt that is short and the others ok? I’d run up to big box and see if they have any in stock. Everything is in limited supply these days.

Bolts/nuts and washers add up $$$ fast!

 

Yep. Even our ‘factory’ running boards required lots of re-engineering. Fortunately, I always seem to find free parts on the street curb that seem to fit.

 

For sure.
I probably hang 20 huge TVs a month and they somehow NEVER come with the hardware needed to get the job done?
How much savings could it possibly be to not include enough choices with a $100 mount considering the actual job it does is hang the damn TV?!?

So when I bill the client for hardware and they look at me like I am crazy.......well you see where I am going with this.
So I have to make sure that I stock the stuff that should come with every mount and does not?

It truly blows but I am not about to mount them without the right hardware either.

 

Looks great, did you measure before? Reason I ask is the 3rd setting should be 1.12 lift, but it looks like you got more than that. Just curious

 

Put it on for now and get longer bolts to fix it. Thats shitty.

 

I forgot too but the center of hub to fender edge is 22”. Was difficult to hold ruler steady and take photo...

 

This. It's just a slider, it can hold for a few days on there until you get new ones. If it were a wheel, that's a different story.

 

@FirstGenVol like others said definitely get longer bolts. If you've got a Tractor Supply or similar nearby they sell fasteners by weight so it's cheaper than HD/Lowe's typically.

 

Sorry, didn't mean to take out my frustration on you. I was able to get a few more threads in so it will definitely hold. I'll run out tomorrow and grab some longer ones. The frame is thickest here so the other 14 bolts are fine.

 

No worries at all I understand and this happened to me Today when a client handed me the TV mounts they had gotten for me which of course also were short on the hardware that I needed!

I always tell them"It costs more if you help" and I bet they understood that Today?

Considering that the Sliders are actually made for the truck it seems extra idiotic and frustrating that the hardware is not right?

 

Calling it what you will.

 

Been I while since I posted any thing. I recently took the entire front suspension off again. To address the daystar polyurethane bushing that already wore out. The main reason was the fact there was know way to keep them greased. Next the upper ball joint that were bad because of the hard angle it was at which I was expecting. To seatbelt and clean the KINGs. It’s been over a yr since I put them on and I was not very happy with the ride in that year. So I addressed the few problems I was having and it made a world of difference. The ride is great, and what expected for coil overs.

Ok first I I ordered JBA OFFROAD UCAs. My in first impression. There the titts By installing these I fixed the upper ball joint to a proper angle. Which complimented the kings. They also came greaseable.

The next issue was the lower control arm bushings. From the first install I learned that the kit is not well thought out. It dose not come with very good washers and not enough of them. Next not greasable which is it the problem of the kit, but no way to grease them. So I wade the lower control arms greasable. The daystar kit tells you to retain the OEM arm bushing sleeve. Instructions tell you to burn out the rubber bushing. Retain the sleeve. Ok got it...... Not good enough what I did this time was silicones them into the sleeve. The drilled and taped a grease zert into the arm through the oem sleeve. No the zert had to be a 90 degree and had to point down to be able to reach them. I drill a hole about a 8th in through the bushing. Now the inside of the bushing had grooves that ran long ways through it but they were not connected. So I solved that by cutting a grove all the way around it where I drilled through it. I did that with a long skinny bolt I found ground the head down thin and cut teeth in it. Used 2 nuts and big washer to keep the same depth. Worked great. Looked factory when all said and done. Didn’t take any pics of doing the install but here is an after. And I’ll post some pics of the grease zerts tomorrow. As far as I can tell the lower a arms are tight and I can grease them properly.

 

Nice ingenuity and thinking outside the box on that sleeve.

 

Man thats great news. Only the one bolt on each side. Easy stuff. I’d be inclined to Red Loctite it and not worry about it since its just one. I was going to use my ‘go buy a bolt extender joke’ yesterday, but you seemed worked up.

 

It found a new friend at Toyota technical training today

 

New jvc double din deck in my ‘02 AC. Love it. My OG speakers even sound good now. Crutchfield nails it everytime with harnesses etc. cant beat $100 for good sound and bluetooth

 

As much as we want to head back west. We are probably stuck here for another 3-5 years. COVID isn’t helping either.
But we shall see. I may more STT pros early so I can keep two of my current set for spares. Only time will tell lol

 

And the paint's peeling. Figures.

 

Classic red metallic clearcoat peel!

 

It’s been here since it had 7 miles. It’s mint everywhere other than paint. Was a Toyota buy back in 02