OME Lift (Front End)- How to secure lower bolt?

Hey guys!
In the middle of my OME suspension lift with the 2884 coil springs (because its a DC and heavy), and Ive seen the install in two ways:

1- Manhandle: Use screwdriver/crowbar and push up the lower bolt to align.
I hesitate to do this because I dont know how sensitive the bushings are, and I also dont want to ruin anything. I just dont have the confidence in the tolerances of the shocks/ball joints to know how much it will take.... so I take a step back.

2- Disconnect everything: Remove lower ball joint + sway bar + loosen lower control arm, etc...

I dont have a step by step guide Im following. Im just doing what Ive done before on previous trucks, and got some help from a youtube video, but most are for Tacomas, hardly any are for Tundras (and almost NONE are Gen 1s!)


Any help or guidance is appreciated!

(Also please ignore the UCA, its just 'dry fitted' for now.)
I'll also make a "build" thread when I get a bit further along. I think you guys will be stoaked to see the results!

-D-

 

Greetings ColoradoGuy,

I recently installed Bilstein 5100s all around and was able to get the lower bolt reinstalled after disconnecting the sway bar linkage. Be sure to tighten the top 3 nuts before trying to install the lower bolt. You can use a socket extension as it the perfect diameter to help get everything lined up and then have someone jump up and down on the rotor while you hammer the bolt back in if necessary. It may be difficult to get the sway bar reattached. I found that rotating the steering wheel helps when reconnecting the sway bar linkage. Make sure you have the parking brake applied and appropriate jack stand supports in place.

Hope this is helpful. Cheers!

 

Reattach the UCA to the spindle, take your stock jack flip it upside down between the fender liner and UCA. That will move everything into position for you, it won't take a lot to get it close.

 

Some of my questionable ideas that worked:
Ratchet strap around base of shock to pull it towards the center of the truck while using a prybar to push down the LCA / pry up on the strut assembly to align the hole vertically.
Spring compressors to shorten the overall length of the strut assembly. (they do not fit well in the space, but even the lower 2-3 coils compressed may help if nothing else will)
A combination of both.
I had the UCA attached to the spindle when doing these. Top 3 nuts were finger tight.

 

Watch This: https://youtu.be/2FsDtsY4jnQ

Also this chart should answer all questions about OME springs.

 

Pinch bar for leverage worked for me just fine to get it into position

 

Please do not hit the bare threaded end of a bolt with a ball peen hammer without a spare nut screwed onto the ends of the threads to protect the bolt. Thats a great way to ruin the threads on a bolt.

Also if a bolt is positioned a specific way when you remove it, please re install it the same way, theres a reason for it.

 

Thanks for all the great feedback everyone!
I just finished, and boy is my body exhausted from wrestling suspension for two days.

I ended up using tie straps (2) to snug it towards the center of the truck. (Knabors for the win!) Then it popped into place with a few pushes. Used a pinch bar under the strut, and a big flat head screw driver in the hole when I could see it.

The coils are the extra heavy duty (2006 DC with topper and gear) so it was harder to manipulate than I expected.

Fortunately, the passenger side went in with zero issues. It fell into place like it was just waiting on me to drop it in.

One good tip was also to loosen the sway bar linkage (don't remove the nut, just loosen to the end) this gives the lower arm a chance to relax down and relieves some tension when you are installing the new strut.

Overall, a very good day, great progress, and I could not be more pleased with this Tundras forum. Thank you everyone for your quick, experienced, creative, and supportive responses! I slept better last night knowing that I had you all on the case.

I'll take some pics in the daylight and I've still got the rear leaf kit and super bumps for tomorrow, but that will make for a much easier day.

I'll followup with photos and more explanations on the procedures (a better writeup) to leave here for future tundra lift noobs like me.

Cheers,

 

How much lift did you end up getting with the 2884 springs? I'm ordering an OME lift soon and deciding whether to get the 2884 or 2885 springs for my 2006 DC. I don't want to mess with my UCA yet so wanting to keep the lift at no more than 2".

 

post some pics and before and after heights please once everything is installed

 

Hi Kings!

After I changed the strut, I changed out the tires to some 285s and I didn't measure the lift until it was all done (2.8 inches).. so unfortunately I can't give you the exact lift from the strut alone. Sorry.

However, I think your decision is really a matter of how much weight you want to carry (over the normal "wet weight" of the truck) vs the amount of travel and performance you want to get from the strut itself.

If you plan on carrying passengers in the DC, gear in the back, a roof rack or topper, or tow a trailer these are all things to consider.

I have a topper, and a roof rack, and plan to have 4 passengers (adults) for most trips, and also plan to do some offroading, so I need a pretty stiff strut that doesn't over compress or else I'll grind my tires on the wheel well for no good reason.

If you're traveling light, the lighter duty struts are a better fit.

You'll get basically the same amount of lift with either, but the Ioad profile is different, and if you have no weight on the big struts, the truck can feel a bit rigid.

Too soft= sloppy tire rubbing
Too hard= rigid bouncing if not loaded

Either way, the height (lift) will be roughly the same, but the performance characteristics will be different.

Also, *** VERY Important *** I'll advise you to change the UCAs as well. The camber on this truck is "almost" good enough to do it without, but "almost" aligned means you are eating your nice expensive tires everywhere you go.

Cost vs benefit? UCAs will save you money, and keep you safer at highway speeds. You won't feel like you're catching the falling tire all the time... so you can relax and cruise control instead of being all tense and gripping the wheel all day.

To me, it was totally worth it.

Good luck! If you have any other questions, I'm happy to help.

 

I just realized I hadn't updated with pics.
I'm in Mexico at the moment... so no pics until spring. Here is one from the maiden voyage:

 

Right on, thanks for the input. My setup is pretty similar to yours. I have a topper and drawer system in the back I built to hold camping gear and sleep on.

ARB says you get 1.5" of lift with the 2884 spring but everyone says OME lifts tend to run high so I'm expecting closer to 2". I run 265/75/r16 tires so don't need the lift to get too crazy.

Did you do any rear lift?

 

That's a clean looking truck my man. I love the way our 1st gens look lifted. I may have to copy your setup!

 

Good call on keeping the 265s until you get UCAs. It will save your tires and maybe your life.

Yes. OMEs do tend to run high, but only at rest. They are some deep and squishy struts when driving.... which for me is the perfect "baja" feeling.

I did put an Icon 3 leaf spring pack in the back because of the extra gear and topper.
I can feel the difference in the ride right away. Cornering has much less sway, and acceleration doesn't "nose up" so hard when you step on it because the rear refuses to "squat". Offroad, I didn't see much change, except when there was a lot more travel, the extra leafs allowed for more travel and articulation of the rear wheel, which gives me a more control, and most importantly, traction, in a funky situation.

I also put in super bumps which in my opinion are the very best, easiest, and cheapest ways to upgrade your ride. It stops the "buck" (like a horse kicking is back legs) from the rear every time you go over a speed bump. And, it eliminates the need for air bags (which always fail, and are a pain in the ass) for trailering heavy loads. The more load you put on them, the more they resist and harden up. It's genius, and often less than 100 bucks, and just one bolt to swap. Highly recommended!

I'll be on most of the day if you have any other questions.

 

Absolutely!!! Sexy, and capable, but not on steroids... like me. Hahaha