Let’s talk suspension, icon vs fox

I'm seeing the same. Also notice the hose design is much shorter as well. Hopefully they did change the design, only way to know is to call them and ask a lot of questions. See if they still run a 16" coil, if they went down to a shorter length that might be a good sign.

 

I emailed boss off-road just to see what they said, they were only able to give me extended and compressed lengths:
Extended: 20.0 in
Compressed: 14.55 inch

calling fox next Like you mentioned

 

https://www.ridefox.com/dl/truck/FOX_TRUCK_APP-GUIDE.pdf

Page 37 of this guide, part # FOX-880-02-420

gives a coil length of 14.55 in.

 

If you get a hold of them ask how long the reservoir hoses are too. Mine were longer than the coilover assembly itself, if they solved both problems that's great.

 

I don’t see fox having enough demand for a redesign to be feasible. 99% of these trucks are on 5100’s.

 

I'm hoping somebody's brakes went out and Fox had a holy shit moment. This is what Seanpistols brake line looked like after one or two off road trips.

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/seanpistols-01-tundra.100994/page-44



My hoses were probably 3" longer and cans were meant to be mounted where his bumper bracket is, about 2" out from the frame.

His had the newer reservoir with the adjusters, that included a 90 at the can where mine had a straight fitting. You can see what he did to solve his problems on this link. I considered doing the same on my cans but it didn't provide enough clearance for me. His hoses are a bit shorter and he had way less backspace than I have. Plus his 35s were nearing the frame further forward than my 33s. Interesting how small geometry changes make such a difference.

 

Would love to hear from one of our knowledgable vendors who sell Fox for their input about 2020 Fox shocks.

 

spot on, no Redesign per they’re technical support. Still using a 16 inch coil, and couldn’t give me the length of the reservoir hose. I’m not sure what they’re brochure I linked above is measuring. Guy confirmed that the eyelet does set at the bottom of the coil like the first picture @Darkness posted. Told me the picture on the part number I clicked isn’t an actual representation, can’t go by that

fox is crossed off the list official, at least for the fronts

 

ADS might actually be better. The first set I saw looked just like Fox, but examining the set Jimmy had, the lower coil perch has a little bit more rise. You might be able to message him to see if he had any problems with his. He broke just about everything else on his suspension so if they were a problem he would know

Front page he posted a pic of the shocks, front ones have a bit of a gap between the eyelet and the perch. Rears look nice too.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/jt-02-tundra.22274/

 

I just dropped him a message with a ton questions. I looked through his build thread, he’s put the ads setup and camburg arms through their paces

 

I have tried to explain this to people but apparently I lack a thesaurus and could not get people to understand why digressive struts are the way to go

 

Hang on man, I’m here to learn. If you got some info to add by all means post it up. I’m trying to buy once cry once

Like I mentioned earlier I came from the xterra world. Body lift, t-bar crank, some uca’s, and shocks and it was set

 

$2-3k will get you 4 nice shocks and some coils. Start adding off that number with all the extras you’ll want to do ‘while in there’ up front. Plan on spending $$$ more to do it all right the first time.

You’ll spend $1-1.5k on rear customs leafs and the assorted sundries.

 

Google can explain better than me but simply they function completely opposite of each other. If you take a progressive strut and press it against the floor with your body weight, the piston will go in slowly. Digressive will not, it will stay firm. Now slam it and the digressive will collapse, progressive will lock (hydro lock). Now take that to driving a rally car at high speed bouncing and jumping all over the place, that is digressive struts in action. Progressive struts can’t take that beating, they would lock up and you will be riding on bricks.
Downside is digressive struts ride firm on low speed holes, dips and bumps. Progressive struts are excellent in that part

 

And I’m surprised no one has mentioned Keith from dirty deeds. He beats his truck off road and created a whole business with his knowledge. Check out his website and email him, he is super cool and really knowledgeable

 

ive ran icons on my tacoma for 10 years now (when my father had it it had Donahoe shocks. aka icon before icon) they do ride stiff slow speed impacts but smooth on the highway... ive got nothing to complain about with it, i actually love how they ride... my big thing with fox is any truck i see traded in at work (so a few. but less than 10 in 6 years) with fox, THEY RUST BAD if your in the rust belt.

 

I just installed some Icons 2.5 front and rear. No complains so far. Feels a lot more solid on turns and a lot less body roll. I can also get close to 4 inches of lift from the coilovers. Customer service is also top notch!

 

@bmf4069

 

The valving discussions make my head spin. Each time I think I have it figured out someone else has a different take.

@Cummins3500 we always forget to discuss Elka. I've never seen anyone run these on a 1st gen but they do make them. Doesn't look like they offer a remote reservoir though.

https://us.elkasuspension.com/produ...toyota-tundra-2000-to-2006-2-in-to-3-in-lift/

 

Right now were up to about $3-5k in shocks and leafs packs. Whats our budget on this project?

 

@Professional Hand Model
I was shooting for around $3500 when I was planning on the icon stage 3 kit w/ camburg or total chaos uca’s.

I read about shock valving till I’m crossed eye And it seems like when I settle on something, that option falls out. The dude with ads didn’t speak to highly of em

@FirstGenVol
I’ll give them Elkas a look

 

I’ve got camburgs on the tundra, I had chaos on the taco. Then Icons on the taco.


They’re all the same for the most part. Camburgs can be had cheaper, that’s why I went with camburgs.

 

It gets overwhelming. I lurked this site a little bit before joining and got crosseyed myself. I’ve always had success by keeping things simple which is why I ended up with the 5100’s and having others do the work. I spent about $3500 for a basic OEM total front re-build (parts AND labor).
New:
1) 2-OEM LCAs
2) 4-5100’s
3) Sway links
4) Front rotors and pads (Quality)
5) China cheapo front CV axles
6) High Dolla Alignment with read outs
7) SPC Cams Bolts (quality)

Couple of things:

1) Shoulda taken the spindles and had new bearings installed.
2) Shoulda gone OEM new CV Axles.

Got lucky and scored my job on the ‘once a year tax free’ holiday! Saved $500!

Those Icon and Camburgs look nice and I may do those in a few years. DIY will make it worthwhile this time.

 

I’d put ‘go home turd gen!’

 

I was so excited to use @Lil Steve meme I forgot to write words.

 

Bro, you didn't even give credit to the right guy.

@Lil Steve made that one.

 

Omg, I'm full of the derp today. Too much heat...

 

Weekend Beer Detox Program is on its third day.

DT’s are next.