Decided on lifting over coilovers. Need help on brand of lift

Ok guys I want to thank the thread for my last post on coilovers or lift kit
After talking with my cousin and listening to members I'm going to get a 4-4.5 in kit and add coilovers. My cousin does some Baja racing out west, he ain't famous but he knows his stuff and he said get a small lift and coilovers that way all your parts are thicker and stronger and u have more travel room.

So my choices are
1. Fabtech 4
2. RC 4
3. Skyjacker 4.5

Pro comp is really low on the list.
I would eventually like to go 37s so that's why RC is there. But I think someone could fit 37s on a 5".. if u can fit 35s on 3 then it works right lol

 

Fabtech I would think. Don't they have to cut and weld some components?

No BDS option?

 

To expensive and at 7"!the angles are just like putting spacers on a leveled truck. Several 4wd drive companies that I have called that are national chain(not 4wp) and local shops have told me they are not a good kit on the tundra.. steering and just the geometry of some of the lift wasn't as good..

One shop told me that RC and BDS on tundra was comparable and they sell both kits

The only think that I'm worried about on the fabtech is that it has very few parts.. just spindles and UCAs really

 

What is the truck being used for? Are you just going for looks or performance or trying to get the best of both worlds?

 

The BDS kit has Fox 2.5 Coilovers. I don't see where the coilovers are on the RC lift.

 

I believe that someone stuffed 37's on a 3in lift on here.

 

You can buy the BDS kit without the coilovers and it is a lot cheaper. Just FYI if you didn't know that.

 

Truck is just for normal highway driving but occasionally I do go offroad when I hunt. So I would like coilovers so that I have enough travel..

 

I have seen on other forums that most 4" kits that fit one coilover will work on others. Icon and fox have both said they can do those no problem

 

Got you. I'm not too knowledgeable on lifts beyond 3". I'm happy with my BOSS setup which is adjustable from 1"-3". Some report getting as much as 3.5 on top setting.

 

You can get the correct amount of travel in that 3-4in range a TON of ways. The Fabtech kit is a nice all inclusive kit but keep in mind that it changes your knuckles so you cant run the OEM wheels. Something like Fox, King, Icon, SAW, ADS, Bilstein etc. coilover systems paired with UCA's (Camburg, TC, Fabtech, Deed's) have plenty of travel and allow the use of 35's (37's on fiberglass fenders). These are more proven systems that have tons more R&D in them for moderate and heavy off-road use. I can tell you from daily experience that I have never seen a RCX kit go well in the long run. Now, I know this differs form consumer to consumer but there's a reason why I never see trucks back in the shop with problems that use the manufactures I listed above on coilovers. Do they need servicing; YES, but again the parts are more robust and equipped to handle punishment and drive/ride like a dream on the streets. These systems paired with other suspension mods in the rear (Add-a-leafs, Deavers, Dakar, etc), shackles and a properly valved, sized, and lengthened rear shocks will get you dialed in just right. Take a look at some of the build threads in the 2nd and 3rd gen forums and take note of the trucks that use these items.

 

I would say that factory parts are not meant to be drove offroad anyway. Spindles, upper and lower A-Arms, ect. Eventually that stuff will break and that's where I was hoping to get a lift that made that beefed up that stuff.. I do agree that coilovers are needed but if you look at any offroad vehicle that was built for that, they don't have factory anything. They have long travel kits with fabricated knuckles... ECT
Like I said I talked with my cousin and he showed me some of his pictures of trucks that he built and after the conversation I really want to go with a small lift and then add coilovers later...
Center of gravity is the same with the 3" and with the coilovers I will have way more travel then when you just have coilovers for leveling..
Not knocking just the coilovers at all.. Its more about what he said needing those aftermarket parts as well as the coilovers...

 

On RCX when they came out on the Silverado I had a friend that put one on and it was ok, you could tell that it was bolted under the frame. BUt recently from what most of the shops around here have told me and online places say that RCX is a completely different company. Now im not saying they are as good as CST(which makes the best lift kit IMO) but as long as you stay 6" or less RCX is a very good kit..
THey rated CST>FABTECH>SKYJACKER/RCX, PROCOMP..

So between the lifts I mention, what is the best lift for 35s now and to get me 37s later.. Do you think that the Fabtech with Coilovers cranked an inch get me to 5" im not sure on how the kit works without the cross members

 

Remember, all of this stuff is "build-a-ble" Take a look at the TC boxed lower arms, Camburg Kinetic Uppers, TC Tab gussets, TC spindle gussets, etc. Sure the factory lower arms aren't meant to leap on daily but they aren't going to limit you off-road if you're doing it moderately. If you want to build a semi-bulletproof suspension then its time to look at a TRUE LT with BedCage setup, Spring under, Bump Stops, the list goes on. Might as well stitch weld the the fender wells (after you tub it for increased up travel) along with the firewall and also add a cab/engine cage too. And fiberglass fenders and bed sides.

From you post; you're building a road/hunting rig. There are many ways to approach it but just think it through and don't over do it. All these items I've listed between the post are SUPER nice and really make the Tundra one of a kind but there is always more. Plus maintenance/down time.

This truck for instance I built for a customer has Kings 2.5 w/ King 2.5 secondaries, Camburg uppers, Deaver K37's, T/C 3/4 shackles, King 2.5 with Resi rears, and he's coming back for spindle gussets next month. He hunts hogs on his property shooting from the truck while driving with a .300 blackout. And he drives 120 miles a day round trip to and from work. I have a ton more pics of builds like these that I can post for you if you like.

 

I'd lean to the Fabtech 4 and keep it on 35's. Definitely do the uniball version to get the alignment dialed in. There's room to get you close to 5in in there but don't push it too much or you alignment days will be almost non existent. Have you looked at doing the Procomp component kit (all parts minus the struts and shocks) and swapping to Icon coilovers and the 2.5 rear shock option? I do that system a lot at work and with UCA's you can run those 37's like a champ


Look at the ProComp part number K5069B, extract the shocks and spacers for the struts and implement this:

http://iconvehicledynamics.com/shop/447-large-lifted-applications

 

Do you think the fabtech can be cranked to 5inches without the cross members? I don't want to do all that crazy stuff. My cousin was just talking in general for the hills I climb that the factory would probably be ok but if it was him just to be safe I needed beefier knuckles ect.. I don't really want to cut the frame like skyjacker you have to cut a little bit..

 

paging @Spvrtan

 

That's the cost to be the boss man. Gotta do the cross member cut ( its really no that bad ) and get that primary member in there because it drops everything down where it needs to be. Most of the lift kits back up the factory warranty because they are FMVSS approved. No worries there.

 

I had thought about the pro comp 4''.. 4 wheel parts told me it can be increase to 6" even though Pro COmp says no..

 

yes this is misinformation. You have to pull down the whole 4in system and go with the 6in equipped system which would be new crossmembers, knuckles, strut mounts (if not using coilovers) and necessary hardware. I work for 4WP and I hear this time to time. Some guys are still learning and kinda new and not as well trained on lift systems and their compatibility on parts.

 

If the Pro Comp puts everything at stock angles why couldn't you use a coilover and pump it to 5inches? I know the 7" and 4" are totally different kits

HOw do you feel about Skyjacker then?

 

I have 37's on 2-1/4" lift front and stock rear. Granted I have a few mods, but no BMC and no rub. It is close, but need to get it off-road and bounce it to know for sure.

 

I beg to differ on your comment on stock components no holding up off-road. Talk to your cousin and he will tell you that SCORE and other organizations have classes that don't allow many mods other than tires, cage, shocks etc. Other suspension components must remain stock. For your off-roading adventures, don't be afraid that your stock components won't hold up. Just my thoughts and Hattori has great input !

 

Do you have pics??
I always assumed 37s and 4.5 to 5" was possible. If u can stuff 35s on 3" lift then 2-2 is 5" with 37s
My plan is 4 now with 37s and then at coilovers later and crank em 1" to 5 with 37s if I want to then. I might just stay with 35s and just keep coilovers for the offroad

 

Here is a pic with 37's on OEM wheels, no wheel spacers, 2-1/4" front lift. Keep in mind I have mods done, and with my very high offset (60mm) wheel, they are tucked in tight and creates less rubbing issues. Once you get into a less offset wheel that hangs out, that's where the rubbing issues begin. Anything is possible with some R&D and time........

 

Hattori has been great. My comment was for the average guy then ya it would be ok but for more hardcore climbing and off-roading the stock components are built to take that type of abuse.. just holding up a knuckle factory to fabtech the difference is crazy.. if u do trails and dunes then ya. He just has that mindset that aftermarket and beef are just safer

 

That's bad ass. I want like +18 offset
So between the fabtech, skyjacker, RCX and pro comp as hattori stated what are the pro and cons of each? Which is the better kit. 4.5" or less

 

Love threads like this! So much info to share!

Okay, so the difference in these kits across the board starting with the Skyjacker system is the use of blocks and leaf packs. There are about 6-7 different kits on the Skyjacker systems which basically vary in the grade of shocks, struts and using either the blocks or the leaf springs to achieve lift in the rear. I'd opt for the M95 struts, shocks and the leafs if I were doing the Skyjacker system because the ride is much improved with the height on these parts in particular. Be careful with Skyjacker with that "17 in wheels will fit" claim. To date, I haven't seen a SJ kit that allows 17 inch wheels because the wheel (17's) has too much B.S. and inner barrel circumference. It gets really close to the lower ball joint on the knuckle. Most of your 6in kits with spindles require a B.S. between 4-5in with VERY LITTLE room more or less.

The Fabtech system dials it up a little more because most of the kits come with a coilover setup along with performance or uniball UCA's. I'd still say use a leaf system of some sort rather than doing a block since the front is adjustable. I'm not really a fan of blocks to achieve lift but if the truck is more of a roller than a performer, you can save the money and put it elsewhere like recovery, lighting, etc. If you are going with Fabtech; definitely swing towards the Dirt Logic system with the DL shocks in the back, if not those at least the Stealth series.

RCX, honestly I've seen nothing but bad stuff from them. I know they're getting better but seriously I correct about 5-8 Tundra's a month with RCX components on them. More time than not I see them come in with dealer tags on em and the shocks leaking. Kits like a week old with 400 miles on the truck. But I'm not gonna knock em and I hope they get better because their prices are insane! In a good way..

I do more ProComp kits because the dealers love to see those kits. Never question the warranty and you don't have to use all Procomp items to uphold the warranty. I do a few of the ProComp/Icon hybrid systems. They use blocks but most of the trucks that come and go are not hardcore off-road rigs. Most of the time they have convinced their spouse that if they let em spiff up the ride that they'll put some real comfy parts on it and keep it "driveable" If you're going with PC, look at the K5069BPS , BPX, and BMX kits. These utilize either Pro Runner and or 2.75 C/O's. I think the 7in kit part number is K5085b but then I'd run the Icons in it all the way around.

Hope this helps you out man.

 

If you think the factory components won't hold up,,,, I've got news for you.