6112 Setting and Tire/Wheel Combo Thread.

Feedback after 2000ish miles ..

1. this suspension setup is awesome.
2. do the lcas while you’re in there.
3. should’ve gone with the ~.625 coachbuilder lift shackles with the deaver mini pack for the slightest bit more rake.
4. should’ve gone with ball joint UCA.
5. despite running 35’s, this tire and wheel setup tucks in to the fenders just enough to where I’m not kicking rocks up on the body of the truck.
6. if it squeaks and creaks up front, check your diff drop bolts, skid plate bolts, sway bar bushings, trans cooler mounts, and lca ball joints. If you find all the noises but then still get an occasional, random one .. then you must’ve ignored number 4 and gone with uniball ucas. Clean and relube them and it’ll disappear.

If you didn’t see my earlier post, currently running the following-
6112s with new top hats and set at 1.9. Two CB .5” shims on driver side and one CB .5” on passenger side. 1.5” uniball camburg UCAs above those. 5160 in the rear with a deaver mini pack supporting stock springs. All on SCS Stealth Custom SR8 wrapped with 285/75r18 Goodyear Duratracs.
Carrier drop, diff drop and SDHQ body mount chop tying it all up.

 

Great feedback. Thx for sharing. I am currently at 1.9 and going to add shims so I can fit same tire size (285/75) - any trimming necessary?

 

Thanks

If you look at the pic of my front wheel well, i had to do very minimal "melt modding" to the front of my wheel well. Also, cutting/bending up the front corner of my skid plate. If you have a after market front bumper and rad skid (like I plan to do) then this is likely a non issue.

 

Was the BMC just for extra clearance, or necessary?
What offset are your wheels?

 

Unless you mind rubbing, it's necessary. Shops do BMC/CMC more often than I think most Tundra owners realize. You can call 4x4, tire and suspension shops and, if they have any experience with Tundras, they'll know what you're looking for. I wouldn't spend the money you will on a suspension and tires to then discover that your tires are rubbing.

 

I run the same tire size, but with the Falken Wildpeaks and did not require a BMC/CMC.... proper alignment, right offset and BS on my methods and no issues here.... even bought the relentless plates with the intention of doing a cab mount chop.

 

MPG not so great, adjusted I get 12.4 mpg. Then again, I knew what I’m getting into.
I’m re-geared to 5.29 so I got the get up n go back.

 

No rubbing at full lock even with articulation? If so, that's great. Maybe something to do with me being in a 2nd gen or running duratracs. Either way .. still not a biggie for those worried about chopping.

Thinking of regearing next year and see that Dirty Deeds highly recommends 5.29 for 35s .. others say 4.88. You go 5.29 before or after the 37s?

 

I'm in this same boat, only difference I'd like to keep the height, just want it to ride a little better. Did yours ride better after the 6112/6150s?

 

So far, correct.

 

Need some advice.

Currently at 1.9”. Want to get the front a tad higher and run 285/75.

Would y’all recommend adding shins and keeping it at 1.9” or just bumping up to 2.5” settin?

thanks!

 

Here's my new setup:

- 6112 @ 1.9" w/1 Boss OR shim on Driver's Side
- 5100's in rear with ToyTec 1" block
- TRD Rear Sway Bar

Coming from stock shocks with a Rough Country 1.75" front level block, I was already a little higher than stock. However, since I installed my new setup, drove it around a few days, had it aligned, then drove it to Florida and back home (1100 miles) I am finding that the shim has actually done nothing for my driver's side lean. Has anyone ever had this? Here are my before and after numbers

DF: 39" (1.75" RC Block)
39 9/16" (New Setup)

PF: 39 1/4" (1.75" RC Block)
40" (New Setup)


So essentially I went from a 1/4" lean to a 9/16" lean after installing the 6112. I like to think 9/16" cannot be seen by the naked eye on these trucks, but I swear I can see it.

 

Finally got around to ordering the Coachbuilder +2 rear shackles and I love the stance now. Before it was slightly squatting and drove me nuts. Up front I’m running 6112’s at 1.9” with one Coachbuilder shim on the driver’s side. Tires are 285/70/18. I may eventually go up to 295’s but I’m very pleased with how it looks for now.

 

Still loving my 1.9 + shim on both sides with boss off-road shackle in the rear. 285 75 17 bfg ko2:

 

Looks great! What shims did you use? Only one on each side?

 

I completely agree (dirtbikes) and have almost the same setup/rake on my Tundra. However, after towing an enclosed trailer to MT, ID a little while ago, airbags are in the near future as my rake quickly went into the negative territory with ATVs and dirt bikes in the enclosed.

 

I got all my components from Darren at bossoffroad. Shims are the 1/4” that net closer to 1/2” of lift and I have 1 on each side. Wanted to go 2 on the driver side, but I didn’t love how little thread I had above the shock mount with 2. I know people do it and it’s fine, but I am happy with the functionality and look with where I am at.

 

Bump it up!

 

285 / 75 /18 or 285 / 75 /17 ? With my 285 / 75 / 17 (on +25 wheels) i BARELY fit with minor plastic trimming/ relocating with 1.9 + shims. Each truck is different bla bla bla, but i could not have fit larger / wider tires even though i know others have done it.

I kept it as "low" as possible to fit 34" (ish) tires because i was all about function (ride quality, power, daily drivability, tow capabilities)

 

Keeping stock TRD OR Wheels - so 285/75/18 - i just purchased CB Shims (0.5") for each side. Seems other have a very similar setup and have had success with that tire size and clearing UCA's.

 

BUT - like you said, every truck has its differences so... there is only one way to find out!!! fingers crossed.

 

Are you guys just reusing the old bushing and washer from the old shock for the 5160? Cant seem to find the replacements.

 

Thats what i did, but my truck only had 15k on it when i made the switch so the components were still in good order.

 

Are the new UCAs necessarry for a 2.5" lift? I was going to do a 6112 front 5100 rear with coachbuilder +2 in the rear with coachbuilder bushings to get rid of the bed hop. I also want to tow my travel trailer, so I want a little rake.

 

Answers will vary, but even at 1.9 with a shim I think they are a good idea, but may not be required. At full droop my stock upper control arm makes contact with the coil. Most people seem to determine the “need” for UCA based on ability to align properly. Mine aligned fine, but I still want new UCA’s for piece of mind / reliability.

 

Agree with @DeesCrewMax, I don't think they were 100% necessary. I read that you get some more droop with them installed, and of course there are the benefits of easier alignments. I would recommend adding them if you want to just do it right one time, but if you are budget-conscious you might wait and see (I had a shop do the front, so I figured I might as well pay them once). I really like how the combo performs on and off road, so I think it was worth it in the long run.

 

Also just noticed @Bailey is selling some on the FS forum right now, maybe that can be your deal

 

Yep
https://www.tundras.com/threads/for-sale-new-tc-ucas-tent-skottle.71866/

 

Do you have same tire size as a spare?

 

Looks really good! What offset are those wheels? Any trimming, rubbing, etc?