1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

The 88-95? GM trucks used a pretty neat light that had a 15 foot or so cord and a winding reel to store it. The can be "updated" with an LED simply. I've thought of that too

 

From what I remember the light was attached with just a couple of short sheet metal screws in a reinforced part of the underside so that the screws had no chance of going through the hood itself.

With LED strip lights being so inexpensive I think it shouldn't be too difficult to expand on PHM's puddle light mod for under the hood using a mercury type tilt switch to activate the light strips.

 

Its so much work doing this lighting stuff with all the wire runnings. I’d say buy a Husky Little Magnet light and be done with it.

 

You also don't work 3rds. You also have a garage.

Heres my thoughts
Run 4 strips of lights in a box shape. At each corner run jumpers from one strip to the next until you get back to the drivers side lift strut which will be the termination of strips.

I need to see, and feel this mercury tilt switch before my brain will grab hold fully.

 

Seeing with my mind! WhOa

$6 ECS Normally Open/Normally Close TILT Switch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073HNMCMN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VR0hFb72BHT7W

 

I've got that specific kit on hand. Its actually in the truck. Haven't gotten to that job yet.

 

I agree, installations can be a hassle and not worth it to some. I have a similar light from HF that works pretty well, and I always seem to have some sort of flashlight handy for that quick, take a looksie. But Noah has a point, sometimes you have no choice in when you are spending time under the hood. That's when good lighting/visibility is priceless. That truck bed strip kit looks like it wouldn't be too difficult to adapt for under hood use, even if staying with a toggle switch to turn them on/off.

A cheapie USB rechargeable LED headlamp I picked up at Sam's Club a few years ago is what I reach for when I need to see better under the hood/dash etc. I'll settle for good enough in this case.

 

@Lil Steve. Thank you for having my back.

Very rarely have I been under the hood by necessity barring oil changes. I work/drive a lot at night. Lately I've been under the hood a lot by choice.

I'm getting real tired of repositioning my light because its big, and bulky. Hard to find a good place for it. Never really liked elastic band head lights. Just not for me.

My roll of light strips is free, and has pre-marked places to cut it. I think i could easily solder in jumper wires to tie all the strips in together.

Heres my ideas for mounting.

Blue lines are led strips, and green is the solder in jumper wires.

I can't open the hood at work without risk of being fired. Off, or on the clock. Doesn't matter to the office. I'll investigate possible tie in points when I get home.

 

@Tundra2 Your hood light mod seems very doable, looking forward to the end result. I'm now wondering how the adhesive backing on the strips will hold up with the heat from the engine, they might eventually come unglued and get caught in the fan! I know 3M makes all kinds of really strong double sided tape or maybe mount them with some sort of silicone/RTV? Just something to think about.

 

Buy the splice kit for those lights. I'm not sure you'd be able to solder those strips easily because they're super thin. I've used similar to these just depends how many pins the strip has.

Nelyeqwo 24 Pack 2 Pin LED Strip Connectors 8mm Solderless Single Color Gapless Connector for SMD 3528 2835 LED Strip Light

https://www.amazon.com/Nelyeqwo-Connectors-Solderless-Gapless-Connector/dp/B082FGH4GH

 

OoooH​

That's the biggest reason why I haven't done it yet. I'm a-scared.

Didn't know such a kit existed. I'll have to investigate these on my next break. Thank you!

 

On the tape. You want 3M VHB tape, clean everything, then clean it again before you stick it on.

 

Chilling at Lake St. Barts with the Egret all day.

 

@empty_lord
Our 2010 4runner has been starting strange lately and throwing a engine code P0335 crank shaft pos sensor. Is it best just to pull it and replace it, another tech mentioned make sure the WP isn’t leaking and slinging crap all over the sensor. I checked my Reservoir and it’s mid range, not empty. Then I finally found a thread on how to replace it, and it sounds like I should just replace it while I’m there for the amount of work it is to get it out. Any thoughts? also it has a viper remote start, I’ve been reading if the transponder box is going bad, it can cause a long crank issue which may throw weird codes, it’s just weird that it has slightly longer cranks than normal, even w the key.

 

@empty_lord or anyone else what is the difference between these 3 radiators? Says all fit 2002. Pic grab from online local Toy Stealer Programme.

 

I read that thread and thats mucho work. I haven’t had any sensors go bad on the 2002 Tundra, but plan on replacing them with the timing belt replace because the drive shaft and crank shaft ones look like lots of work like the 4Runner.

I’d say replace it since your code is telling you its bad.

 

Yup, that's the stuff. This roll should be easier to work with....

$18 Double Sided Tape Heavy Duty, Adhesive Mounting Tape Waterproof, 16.4 FT x 0.94 IN, Strong Foam Tape for Walls, Automotive, Home Office Decor, Made of 3M VHB Tape (Pack of 1)

https://www.amazon.com/Double-HitLights-Mounting-Waterproof-Length/dp/B07TC16SZ7

 

1st and 3rd are the same part except one is made for DC trucks, the other is for non-DC trucks. Middle one I don't know, except it's for a non-DC truck. I'm assuming at that price point, it must be a higher performance part?

 

Yeah the tech said it’s not to bad, but not a 5 minute job either, I will inspect for coolant seepage/weepage/leakage, but he makes it sound like a transponder issue. There’s another audio guru in the club that I was referred to, I’ll ask him what he thinks(he’s done a ton of installs and seems to know what’s what)

 

Online clickings say all three fit on Toy Stealer Site. My other cross reference sites say unsure, but do not say ‘Does Not Fit’. My truck is 2002 so no double cab.

 

Looks like 4 hours solid on my back to me.

 

Haha that’s how I read it too! I’m in gravel so that’s like 6 for me!

 

I’ve been using this Break Dance Mat which helps. Keeps warm in the winter and not bad in summer. Brings back memories.

 

Check freeze frame and see if the battery voltage is really low when it sets

 

Somebody help me here
https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-the-hell-is-this.71673/

 

Un bicho!

No idea what that is but my (Android) phone's camera has Google lens built in and has been pretty helpful trying to identify stuff. I just tried it scanning the pic on my phone while looking at my computer screen and it's not getting accurate results. Maybe you can try a similar app on your phone and scan/take a picture. Sorry, that's all I got.

 

@Lil Steve I'll try that, thanks!

 

Checked out those solderless connections. They look sweet except I would need a 90° bend. @Festerw

Something like

$9 LightingWill 10pcs Pack L Shape Solderless Snap Down 2Conductor LED Strip Connector for Right Angle Corner or 90 Degree Connection of 8mm Wide 3528 2835 Single Color Flex LED Strips

this.

Or

FSJEE 8mm 3528/2835 LED Strip Light Connectors Kits with 10PCS L Shape 2 Pin Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector and 10PCS 2 Pin 8mm Wide LED Solderless Connect Wire for 2835 Single Color Strips

this.

Checked out that tape that @Lil Steve suggested. Looks like good stuff. When I get home I'll measure a rough ball park for just how much tape I'll need. Place one order, one time.