Put 5100s on today

So today I took off the original strut and coil off my 2000 Tundra 4x4 that had almost 350 k on it. I bought 5100s for the front with Eibach springs. I decided to go to the top setting. It lifted it 3” from where it was. This week I’ll be doing a Front diff drop for the cv axels and boots. I got the passenger side done today and am planning on doing the drivers side during the week. I also replaced the upper ball joint too since the boot was ripped. It was a very productive weekend.

 

Nice work!

Curious, what eibach coils did you use?

 

Nice looking setup. Lifting the rear as well?

 

I’m gonna put 5100s on the rear as well and possibly new leaf springs. Haven’t decided on the leaf springs yet. Currently it looks like it leveled out so far

 

And thank you.

 

E30-82-066-04-20
here is the part # from my invoice. If you go with Eibach try to contact tanner from the Corona California branch. He really helped. I got the coils in less then 2 days after ordering. I’m happy with the customer service

 

Those are 2.5" lift coils correct? and you put the lower spring seat at the highest or lowest setting when you say "top setting"?

 

Correct. Probably because my suspension was so worn out, I had 348,000 miles on the Strut and coils. At the highest setting The setting that’s not recommended

 

How's the ride? the top setting would yield 2.5" of lift with a factory coil, that plus a 2.5" lift coil must have a lot of preload on that setup.

 

I will let you know how the ride is after I finish doing all the work to the truck I mainly will be using it as a off-road truck so to me the ride doesn’t matter as much it’s not my daily driver.

 

Do you think if I went down and notch the ride would be better and I would still maintain the same 3 inch lift

 

@Professional Hand Model what are your thoughts. I know the fifth clip isn’t recommended, do you think I’ll start breaking stiff? I’ll be putting a diff drop on it to help angles.

 

My 5100’s have 5 settings. I went to the 4th with oem springs and the truck leveled nicely, but I am RWD.


Edit: don’t forget to grab a set of extended sway bar end links, the standard units will be under a lot of stress

 

How’s the ride on the fourth setting

How’s the ride on the fourth notch also do you have stock upper control arms still

 

Oem uppers, ride is firm but not harsh. Those eibach springs are stiffer than oem

 

I would definitely lower the perch. You've got no droop and vicious arm angles if that last pic is with the tires on the ground.

 

Second clip from the bottom with those coils should give you 3.2" of lift per Eibach. moving up several perches is likely not adding lift, but increasing preload. And anything over 2-2.5" of lift is putting the upper ball joint at an increased stress angle near its limit. You will have notching of the outer cup that holds the ball joint in due to maxing out the angle. New aftermarket UCA's help with that. Uniball uppers are overkill for daily drivers and more trouble than most would like to deal with, but you do you.

 

Maybe in a salty state. I've had no trouble from mine in 10 years, over 150k miles on them. SPC is a great option though, they didn't exist when I was on the market for arms.

 

Like others have stated, please lower your bilsteins to the very bottom or the 2nd clip. Please read this from the toytec site concerning these coil springs.

 

Thank you. I didn’t know, I’m gonna try the second notch on the driver side and lower the passenger side. Thank you for input

 

Should the spring compressor threaded rod be bending like that??

 

I thought it was bending too but it wasn’t it was just the slop in the jaws that hook on the coil it worried me to when I was compressing them. They aren’t bent at all after I took them off so they were not bending.

 

I hate those things. I stopped doing coils myself simply because of those things, I never felt the warm & fuzzies when wrenching it. I plan on getting a wall mounted unit in the near future, after I buy a commercial char broiler for my outdoor bar/cooking/hangout station area

 

Those should be called spring retainers, as they are not optimally designed to compress the spring. I usually compress/load the spring as best i can with a jack and the weight of the vehicle, then attach the spring clamps. Using them to screw down and compress the spring tends to wear the threads and bend the rods. Almost every pair I've ever seen are bent like that. And as far as the Uniballs, you do you. They are exposed and require more frequent cleaning and lubing. They tend to be noisier than regular ball joints if not properly maintained. They are higher performance with caveats, like many mods for cars and trucks. Not trashing them, just being real.

 

@Jake92 whatever they say above. I get in trouble on these shocks/lifts questions.

 

Ok, but please put them both on the second notch. If you’re concerned with driver side lean, get a 1/4 inch top plate spacer.

 

This might depend on the manufacturer of the uniball. Camburg used Aurora balls long ago, when I installed my arms what you say was true. They did need occasional lube in and made loud noises for the first thousand miles or so. Lubing is easier than on a sealed joint though, a few drops of Teflon and thats it. I had a friend with a Camburg race kit on his Ford back then, it squeaked and groaned like hell at every joint.

Camburg uses FK uniballs now and when I replaced my uniballs 2 years ago I was surprised that there was no noise at all. I lubed them on install day and haven't touched them since, still no noise.

I do agree though that there are cheaper alternatives now with less compromise. These trucks don't pull massive travel with any UCA so a flipped ball joint works just fine.

 

I’m putting them on the 1st notch to see how they preform this weekend. I appreciate everyone’s comments giving me a crash course on this

 

Thank you lol. I’ve come to my senses and am doing the first notch for now

 

Yeah. I had the shop set mine at one notch up from stock lowest setting. They’ve been great shocks.