Truck in limp mode

So I started up the truck this morning to defrost the windshield before work, and when I went to leave noticed that the check engine light and trac off lights were steady on, and my 4lo light was blinking. Truck would accelerate slowly and not go above 30mph. Truck wasn't in 4lo and 4wd in general hadn't been used in a week. I had this happen once a couple months ago but actually forgot about it since turning the truck off and back on made the lights go off (and I hadn't tried driving it that time to see that it was in limp mode). Any thoughts? I got something in the mail about a recall the other week. Forget what it was pertaining to. Not sure if it's a related issue. Truck is a 2013 5.7L with about 26k on it. Not how I want a 2 year old truck to treat me on a cold morning! Luckily my grandmother lives right up the street so I limped there and left the truck there and borrowed her Rav4 for work.

 

Unfortunately don't have a code reader to clear it anymore. I did call my dealership and he said the same thing. Sounds like it's the issue with that recall and it's going into fail safe mode.

 

Disconnected the battery to clear it out so I could get it out of limp mode. Dropped it off at the dealer to get the recall re flash done.

 

how did you make out at the dealer the same thing just happened to my truck today turned it on boom lit up like a christmas tree. was it definitely due to the recall

 

They said they were almost certain it was due to the recall and they have had quite a few trucks doing this. They wouldn't commit to saying 100% since I had disconnected the battery it cleared the code out so they couldn't read what initially triggered it. They politely scolded me for doing that lol but I didn't feel like dealing with having it towed nor is my drive there suitable for going 30 in limp mode.

 

Are there more than one limo mode? I was able to get nearer 68/69 on my 2008 (2wd) the other day when I had the 2nd Air Pump Valve failure. And if I'd have thought to try disconnecting the battery I have have done that also!

 

You can still drive its just not at full speed or even get out of my way speed. So you can make it to the dealer if its close enough that is. If the light is not on though in my area the dealer will not do the recall unless they can see the light on. So be careful clearing the code.

 

I have read alot about people having this problem related to codes PO418 and P0419... thats why my Tundra is parked in the backyard. Limp mode doesnt work for my daily commute. i have heard of people getting a power programmer to disable the sensors and gain MPG and HP. Does anyone have a recommendation for a unit that does this? I am pretty much auto illiterate.

 

From what I've read, "those codes usually indicate the motor of the secondary air injection pump is short or open circuited. These codes almost always requires replacement of the air injection pump motor".

 

Ugh, I'm having this issue. Got the 'check engine' light and it's a P0419. Toyota extended the warranty on this part for '07 to '10 models to 10 yr and 150k miles unfortunately they used the same parts into 2011 and they won't take care of my truck since I have a 2011.

 

I got my tundra 5 months ago from a Toyota dealership, unbeknownst to me it was not certified due to the mileage (96k). Last week the check engine light came on so I had the code checked, secondary air injection pump. I had no idea the tundras were having this much trouble or I wouldn't have bought one. Now, because it is a manufacturers defect, I believe we could file a class action lawsuit against Toyota to either A. Have a recall and replace the pumps on all tundras with the problem since it's now gone farther than the 2010 model. Or B. Sue them for the damages, time lost at work, and repairs that had to be done to the vehicles to right the defect. I know that this problem isn't rare, I've read hundreds of complaints against Toyota for not fixing this and how much it has been costing their customers. If we all come together and raise our voices, maybe Toyota will remember that we are the ones who tell our friends and family to buy Toyota, we are the salesmen and women who talk people into buying the brand because of the quality, and we could very easily start bringing attention to the defects and all the recalls that have been going on. It's their move but I say we file a suit. Anyone on here an attorney or know one who would be interested?

 

I encountered this limp mode problem a few weeks ago also, first couple of times I was able to disconnect the battery which cleared the Cel and 4lo flashing and got it out of limp mode. I then bought an OBD11 wifi scanner through Amazon, you need an app for your Iphone or Android phone called "Torque" to connect to the wifi scanner. Next time it happened I had it connected and used the app to read the failure code P2442, was also able to clear the code with the app and get going again. I saved the error code when it happened again and took it to the dealer but they refused to do the work even though I showed them the code. Called Their customer support and they also said they would not authorize the work unless they could verify with their scanner. Right now I'm just waiting for it to happen again and have it towed to the dealer as I live live 100 miles from the dealer I won't attempt to drive it in limp mode on the interstate. A few days ago I tried to install the by pass kit made by RUTECH and sold on ebay, thinking I would just do that myself and save myself the hassle of trying to work with Toyota and the dealer again. It seemed like an easy solution to my problem but the big difficulty was in trying to install the cut off plates, There is very, very limited room to work with on the 5.7 so I was unable to break the connection between the tube and the manifold to install the plates. Has anyone had any experience with getting these cut off plates installed? any good hints? If I could get this to work I would be done with Toyota.

As for filing a class action suit, I'm surprised this hasn't happened already, This is a potential safety issue if one were to be on a busy interstate at rush hour with fast traffic and go into limp mode. I contacted the NHTSA at safecar.gov about this problem, just got what looks like a form letter response from them so far.

 

It seems like we wont have any help from Toyota at this point in time, keep trying with filing complaints and maybe something will be done. I just got the Bypass kit from Rutech today and I cannot find the second valve to place the blockers, I have the 4.6L. The valve I can see is behind the passenger wheel well, little room for me to get a wrench back there to take the nuts off. I'm going to try again tomorrow to get the blocker in with an extended socket and ratchet extension. Where is the second valve located? I cannot, for the life of me, find it. I tried emailing Rutech asking for better photographs but their customer support isn't very quick on responding. I cannot fathom how Toyota is letting all this slide. I'm at my wits end from dealing this this truck! I keep having to disconnect the battery, almost every day.

 

Don't know where they are located on the 4.7, I have a 5.7 should be similar I think. I think RUTECH is just one guy, try him again this evening, he may be at a day job.. I would recommend the wifi scanner from Amazon only 20.00, you can download the app for iphone or android, you should be able to clear the code without having to disconnect the battery, worked for me. Godd Luck

 

Here is a good video, explained a lot to me anyway...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwCN839zMl8

 

I wonder when they starting making the trucks with the updated trumpets...

 

Thanks for the link I just saw this yesterday also, It is a big job to do this by yourself for most folks, still hoping somebody has found an easy way to install the cutoff plates for the 5.7, I think that would take care of this problem for a lot of folks.

 

Yeah, sucks for us 2011 folks. Let me know if you'd like the Chilton Repair manual procedures for this. Luckily I have the 4.6L and it wasn't too challenging to do the pumps and the valves. But for the 4.7 folks it's another story.

 

Thanks, I downloaded the pdf file for the procedure to replace pumps and valves, pretty extensive procedure, will try to leave that for the dealer when it happens again. If I could get the cutoff plates installed it would be a simple fix by using the RUTECH module.

 

this is another possible solution: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151681454665?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

Yes, would be a great solution to this problem, apparently several folks have allready done this. I recently bought this bypass kit on ebay but was really unable to break the connection from the tube to the exhaust manifold, jacked up the front end, removed both front wheels to gain access, was able to loosen the two nuts holding it together fairly easily but there is very very little room in the 5.7 to maneuver in there, tried several times on both sides but was unable to break it loose to install the cutoff plates, I was afraid of breaking off the studs and making a real mess of things then. If anyone has had success getting these installed on the 5.7 I would appreciate any tips, etc..
Thanks

 

Yikes! I haven't had the problem yet, so I haven't done the ebay solution. I just saved it in my "just in case I need to" bookmarks... Didn't know it would be that hard.

 

PB Blaster helped me get mine loose on the driver side. Passenger side wasn't too bad.

 

subd...

 

Very helpful video. Thank you

 

Look at the attachments I posted earlier. There is one document that lists the obsolete and new part numbers.