Undercoating: krown vs ziebart vs the rest

I've been using ff for a few years now. Liked the product enough to keep using it. Bought 5 gal pail of ww this year. No smell much better cling seemed to flow out of the pro gun better. We will see how the results are. So far so good.

Used a scooper to get into the gun containers, propped the scooper at 90 degrees the get excess material off. Sat that way for 3 weeks while in vacation and was still covered. The ww really clings.

 

Sorry where is this located at. Can’t really get a good grasp of it from picture.

 

I did use black silicone.

 

More proof.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2VD5fM6pto

 

everyone should know by now not to use that junk. It cracks and traps water and exacerbates rust. You’re better off not putting anything than that junk.

 

Can someone give me the cliff notes. Fluid Film is now blacklisted in favor of something else?

 

https://youtu.be/nXvl9nt57Kg

This dude is right. Ziebart undercoating rusted my chevy from the inside out

 

Woolwax I feel like is the new standard. It’s a thicker version of fluid film that doesn’t smell. This is my first year using it but I’m happy with the results over the past month or so with all of the rain we have gotten. I can update everyone after winter.

 

I guess I'm weird. I kinda like the smell of fluid film.

 

I never smelled it. Just heard it stinks. But I also heard it washes off very easily. Woolwax so far has been great and hasn’t washed off at all anywhere. Even the wheel wells and it’s been raining here a lot so I think it’s gonna be solid through winter.

 

So I feel like I just took a college course on this stuff with this thread and some from TW and other truck forums. Glad I found this place...was just gonna go to Ziebart before reading all this.

I’ve concluded that I really want cosmoline (Rp-342 cosmolinedirect stuff or Amsoil HDMP) on my 2013 undercarriage then some sort of expansive oil sprayed in the doors, hood, etc. I do have some surface rust so prep is key for me.

Problem is there is no way I wanna take this job on myself. I realize it seems easy but I’ve never undercoated and don’t want to screw it up.

does anyone know of a place in NEOhio or Erie or Pitt that would do exactly what’s described in www.rustcoaters.com ? This site (And all the great stuff I’ve read and watched on the forum) has me so convinced this is the way to go that I may drive ten hours if I can’t find anyone local.

I used to paint on the side years ago and just can’t imagine spraying anything over rust like Krown does without a ton of prep.

I’ve called around quite a bit and it seems every shop is tied to whatever product they market to undercoat. I’ve seen some people from the area on here so maybe I’ll get lucky. Much appreciated!

@Prostar 190
@MICKs18yota @ORino
@Jaypown @Geo4x4
@10 ga Bob
@Sephon

 

SO, are we still going AHDMP base plus FF or Woolwax?
my 02 is quite rust free for 65k in Maine
Would like to keep it this way; will be garaged most winter anyway

 

Checking back in on woolwax only with my first mild winter season of use. Sprayed properly, pro gun and 90psi, this stuff sticks! It picks up road grime but most mud will rinse off with low pressure hose. I've avoided intentionally pressure washing it but even spots I've accidentally hit are still greasy. Working under the truck I'm now trained to pull myself around on the creeper by grabbing cold exhaust, driveshaft, gas tank, or sliders. Grab some frame rail and you get a hand covered in clear goop filled with gritty black road grime. I feel that the mess is worth it and its done exceptionally well staying on and creeping. I'll coat every vehicle again probably in September.

 

Same here man. I'm so impressed with this stuff. Was just under the truck the other day installing the oem locking tailgate, I didn't see a spot where it had worn away and the whole underside developed that nice black soot layer to it. Gonna do another coat probably in the next couple of weeks. It was cold here when I did it right after I got the truck in October, so it was kind of a pain as I had to heat up the gallon in front of a propane heater before putting in the quart jug and applying with the pro nozzle/hose. I figure if I put it on when it's really hot out, it will really allow it to seep into every nook and cranny. I'm very happy I found this stuff and put it on my truck before it went through it's first NE ohio winter.

 

Haha yep, it was a chilly December driveway application here. I also still don't know where you put so much of it! I only used a quart and its thoroughly coated. Spread another quart on less thorough coverings on two other vehicles.

 

Idk man lol. I did inside all of the doors, wheelwells, tailgate, and i made sure I soaked the inside of all the frame members on the bottom, pulled the bed rail caps off and got all inside of there.i think every square inch of it is covered lol, but oh well, it's an inexpensive add on for my peace of mind and well worth it. At least now since I got the gun and everything already, only cost will be to buy the woolwax itself. I'm gonna do my fiance's pilot when I do mine in a couple of weeks and maybe give my dad's another light coating.

 

i too can support the woolwax. changed my wife's oil and was blown away at how much was still under it. i did notice 4 distinct circles (pads from the 2 post lift) that had surface rust. made sure to reset the lift and hit those spots. much better longevity then what i used 2 years ago, fluid film. i plan to touch up a couple times a year when under it for oil changes...cheap insurance.

 

so just woolwax or HDMP base plus woolwax?

 

Just wool wax. No need to mix two products on two different coats. From my experience wool wax is pretty Great and I can’t see another coating doing a better job than it as it has lasted through a shitty, wet Ohio winter with nowhere that seems to have came off

 

so you would unbiasedly recommend WW vs HDMP? Live in Maine

 

Honestly never used HDMP, but like I said, from my experience with WW I can’t imagine something working better than that. I did buy their pro gun with the hoses and everything and was able to thoroughly soak the whole of my truck with a gallon, but the gun definitely made doing the job a ton easier so after that initial cost, every time I wanna add another coat it’s only gonna be about $50 to do so, which is pretty cheap considering what it’s doing and how well it’s performed.

 

did i miss a post with your cost for what you bought?
ETA - would like to see vid on page one updated with WW

 

Give me a minute and I can find the page of exactly what was bought.

 

thanks for checking in on an old thread

 

No problem. so the first link is to the gallon I bought and I did add the pouring lid as it makes it much easier to pour into the quart bottles.

https://www.kellsportproducts.com/Woolwax-Auto-Undercoating-1-gallon-can-_p_48.html


this link is for the gun I bought:

https://www.kellsportproducts.com/Woolwax%C2%AE-Pro-Undercoating-Gun_p_16.html

And I also bought 2 of the regular aerosol spray cans of it. Easier to do the doors and tailgate with this. Also did the battery terminal, tailgate latch and hood latch with it.

https://www.kellsportproducts.com/Woolwax%C2%AE-12-ozAerosol-Spray-Can-Clear-895-ea-when-you-buy-12_p_49.html

When you buy the gallon you can select getting a can of this with it and it’s a little cheaper than buying separately. Hope this helps.

 

thanks again!

 

2012 Tundra RW purchased on 9/27/20. Right to left: 1) condition when purchased 2) after full coating with Corroseal (milky white is Corroseal that has not yet dried) 3) after full coating of RP-342 on all exposed metal (FF sprayed into all enclosed areas of frame and body). The Corroseal seems to have worked as advertised turning rust into a black metal with a surface that was dry to the touch and black/dark brown. According to Corroseal it forms a primer that can be painted or sealed over. I applied Corroseal with a hand sprayer (the plastic Zep bottles that are available at HD/Lowes. I coated it heavily and used almost an entire 1 gallon jug. I let it set up for 48 hours and then unloaded 8 cans of RP-342 on all exposed metal. I let that set up for 48 hours and then hit all the cavities with Fluid Film. I'll report back in the spring. Truck was purchased in Erie, PA and will be daily driven in Rochester, NY - annual average of 77" of snow and heavily salted roads in a typical winter.

 

Uh, left to right I meant, duhho . . .

 

Let me know if you’d be at all interested in doing my 2013 just like this with same
materials and PM me costs if you are. I think this is the best approach and mix of materials from all I’ve read but have never done it and would rather not screw it up hahah. I’m about 60 miles east of Erie.

 

Sorry, I don't have the cycles to do your truck but it's pretty straightforward. I just drove mine up on a pair of ramps. Instead of putting the front on ramps and then the rears, I found it easiest to put the ramps on each side - put the right side wheels up and then the left sides. That allowed me to get under each side and just work from front to rear. You should remove the skid plate. Here's what you need: 1 gallon Corroseal, 8-12 cans of RP-342 (I just ordered these as a cheaper alternative for a second coat in the spring -

$96 Brock Case 12 Cans Corrosion Suppressant Cosmoline Wax Metal Spray Weather Protect Rust Prevention for Automotive Machinery Fire Arms Boats Garage Home

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNJ5TMC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), 4-6 cans of Fluid Film or Wool Wax for the cavities. Also, get an extension to allow spraying deep into the cavities (

Woolwax® 24" Aerosol can Spray Wand with 360° Nozzle

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CLUGXFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1).