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2006 Tundra 4.7 Low Fuel Pressure

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Flippinstick, Jun 29, 2020.

  1. Jun 29, 2020 at 12:44 PM
    #1
    Flippinstick

    Flippinstick [OP] New Member

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    2007 Tundra 4.7 with 165,000 miles.

    I have been chasing a P0174 code and finally tested the fuel pressure. It is a constant 22 psi. Under acceleration the pressure doesnt move unless I back off quickly, then it will jumps to 28-30 psi. Unplugging or adding vacuum (mightyvac) to the pressure regulator makes no difference.

    Fuel trims are definitely high on LTFT 1 and 2. In the pictures one is idle and the other is at 2500 rpm.

    Im guessing it is the fuel pump. Has anyone been successful in cleaning the screen on the pump or is it something I need to replace. If replaced are there any good alternatives to Toyota? I see they start around $100 for the complete pump and assembly.


    Thanks and yes I did search the forum before posting and could not find what I was looking for.

    2020-06-25 09.42.10.jpg
    2020-06-25 09.42.32.jpg
     
    Filthyphil likes this.
  2. Jun 29, 2020 at 1:05 PM
    #2
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    The search engine is not good on this site.

    I’ve never done an inside fuel tank sock filter change out, but from what I’ve seen if you are going to have to drop the tank to remove the sock then you should go ahead and do the pump as well. Not sure where to guide you other than using OEM Pump.
     
  3. Jun 29, 2020 at 3:07 PM
    #3
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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    Where did you get this data from? My understanding is the 4.7 fuel pressure and only be measured mechanically from the fuel port at the front of the manifold.
     
    FrenchToasty likes this.
  4. Jun 29, 2020 at 3:15 PM
    #4
    Flippinstick

    Flippinstick [OP] New Member

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    I removed the bolt in red and screwed in one with a Shrader on top, then connected the gauge.

    1.jpg
     
  5. Jun 29, 2020 at 3:20 PM
    #5
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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    I guess you have the right reading then. The screen shots from your device are what threw me off. I was expecting to see a traditional dial gauge. Remember we have the 2 stage fuel pump. Voltage to the pump is run through the resistor, lowering the voltage and lowering the pressure. You may have an issue with the low pressure circuit.

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. Jun 29, 2020 at 4:13 PM
    #6
    Flippinstick

    Flippinstick [OP] New Member

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    I an not able to get any fuel pressure resdings from the OBD2. How would I diagnose the low pressure circuit?
     
  7. Jun 30, 2020 at 4:05 PM
    #7
    Hooptytrix

    Hooptytrix Squeaky Chicken

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  8. Jul 1, 2020 at 8:41 AM
    #8
    Flippinstick

    Flippinstick [OP] New Member

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    My Fuel Resistor reads .6 ohms. Im not sure if that much difference or my meter.
     
  9. Jul 1, 2020 at 8:49 AM
    #9
    Professional Hand Model

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    Might be losing some resistance. Once it nears zero there is nothing. Mine read .8 @ 90° Ambient and the Engine Bay Hot AF.

    The .70 - .76 is a tight range.
     
  10. Jul 1, 2020 at 9:13 AM
    #10
    Flippinstick

    Flippinstick [OP] New Member

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    I just jumped the connection to see if I get different readings. Fuel trim numbers are looking better.

    2020-07-01 11.47.01.jpg
    2020-07-01 12.08.10.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2020
  11. Jul 1, 2020 at 10:40 AM
    #11
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    If you're under that range it means the fuel pump will be getting more voltage than it should, increasing flow. Not by much though. It's less than 10% off, but is still below spec so it may be bad.
     
  12. Jul 1, 2020 at 10:45 AM
    #12
    rock climber

    rock climber New Member

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    I put a denso pump in my old T-100 and it worked great. Much cheaper than OEM. I had a leak in my tank so I was replacing the whole tank and did the pump since I was in there anyway. On the positive side, the fuel gauge was more accurate with the denso.
     
  13. Jul 1, 2020 at 10:50 AM
    #13
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    Walboro is another brand I would use over OEM.
     
  14. Jul 1, 2020 at 2:37 PM
    #14
    Professional Hand Model

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  15. Jul 1, 2020 at 2:38 PM
    #15
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Never mind I see 165k.
     
  16. Jul 1, 2020 at 2:40 PM
    #16
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    You jumped the resistor connection?
     
  17. Jul 1, 2020 at 6:27 PM
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    Flippinstick

    Flippinstick [OP] New Member

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  18. Jul 1, 2020 at 6:38 PM
    #18
    Professional Hand Model

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  19. Jul 2, 2020 at 9:35 AM
    #19
    Hooptytrix

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    You know I saved that image also :rofl:
    Thank you sir :thumbsup:
     
  20. Jul 2, 2020 at 10:15 AM
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    Professional Hand Model

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    Thats why I put this stuff up so people can share it and use it for improvement.

    The FSM is a gold mine of info. The best repair manual for our trucks except I still do not see specifics on this Cam Seals Replacement other than providing 2 dots that I can probably connect eventually.
     
  21. Jul 2, 2020 at 11:03 AM
    #21
    Hooptytrix

    Hooptytrix Squeaky Chicken

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    If no one has said it before....
    Thank you for being such a valuable member, I truly am appreciative of your posts, knowledge and modeling skills
     
  22. Jul 2, 2020 at 11:46 AM
    #22
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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    Otramm did a nice cam seal video for the non VVt engines.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gcM_-fN-44
     
  23. Jul 2, 2020 at 12:09 PM
    #23
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hooptytrix likes this.
  24. Jul 3, 2020 at 8:37 AM
    #24
    Flippinstick

    Flippinstick [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for everyones help. No check engine light and it passed inspection with the fuel pump resistor jumped.
     
  25. Jul 3, 2020 at 11:38 AM
    #25
    Professional Hand Model

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    I remember reading someone here jumping their resistor and it eventually over time lead to a burned out fuel pump.
     
  26. Jul 3, 2020 at 4:43 PM
    #26
    Flippinstick

    Flippinstick [OP] New Member

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    I'm replacing the resistor for that reason. Jump was just for testing.
     
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  27. Dec 11, 2020 at 3:24 PM
    #27
    Filthyphil

    Filthyphil Lions Not Sheep

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    Any updates now? I just started getting the P0171 code, checked vacuum lines and replaced bank 1 O2 sensor and still getting it. Thinking I could have your issue. Resistor is reading .9 ohms at 68 degrees.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2020
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  28. Jun 8, 2021 at 8:21 PM
    #28
    Traveling06tundra

    Traveling06tundra New Member

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    Filthyphill, hey man did you figure out you're issue, currently same issue getting the p0171 and the p0174 lean codes. Currently on the road so need to get trucked fixed asap. 210k
     
  29. Jun 8, 2021 at 8:24 PM
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    Filthyphil

    Filthyphil Lions Not Sheep

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    Yeah I had a intake gasket leak on the very back letting air get in and causing a lean condition. Also wiped out my passengers side O2 sensor. If you can spray some carb cleaner or brake clean around your intake manifold and you’ll hear/feel it stutter.
     
  30. Jun 8, 2021 at 8:24 PM
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    Tundra2

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