JL Audio Build w/OEM HU

Alright crew, my audio build has been completed and installed. Given a bum shoulder for another few weeks, I had it installed by a local shop (KarTunes in Tempe AZ, I highly recommend using them if you're in the greater Phoenix area or AZ). After a lot of Q&A on here, other shops, several calls to Crutchfield, and KarTunes, I finally settled on a full JL Audio system.

Every time I get in my Tundra, I'm reminded how much I enjoy driving it. My only complaint has been the poor audio system. Until now...

KarTunes did an amazing job on the install and helping me finalize equipment picks. Here's what we used:

OEM EnTune Premium non-JBL head Unit
JL Audio - Amp XD700/5v2
JL Audio - Sun 13TW5 w/JL Audio box
JL Audio - bass knob
JL Audio - C2-650X two-way (rear speakers)
JL Audio - C2-690TX three-way (front doors)
M.E.S.A. Mat sound deadening on all four doors and the rear wall
Amp install kit w/four gauge wiring and heavy duty fuses
NO Line out converter (the JLA amp has one built in)

The outcome, ZERO WHITE NOISE, even at volume "0" or "1". From there, I played/tested every genre imaginable at high volumes, NO DISTORTION whatsoever. The sound deadening matting keeps out just the right amount of road noise, allowing me to still hear the TRD dual exhaust notes. Oh, and NO rattling in the cab at nearly full volume.

The highs and mids are perfect. In my opinion, approaching studio quality sound (I used to record guitar for side cash). The bass isn't overpowering (unless I crank the sub all the way up) and is easily adjusted for different genres and audio file types using the bass know installed next to the OEM USB input (MP3s are highly compressed, XM produces a dirty signal, and "Tidal" has hifi audiophile formats available). Given I didn't do the install myself, I only have a few pics to share. If you want better sound quality, use your USB cable, Bluetooth changes the compression.

Other than the amazing sound quality, the best part is that it looks completely stock. Looking forward to my next road trip! I wish I could share exactly how great this setup sounds

(pics are not of the "finished" install)

 

Awesome Brett! Thats definitely pretty high on my priority list for the next mod. Two questions for ya

1) Do you mind if I ask what it cost you? You can PM me if you'd rather do that

2) Do you have a double cab or crew?

 

1) PM sent
2) CrewMax

 

please pm me as well thanks

 

Can you PM me with cost info? I'm in Gilbert and can't stand the stock speakers...killing me. Thanks!

 

Sweet set up Bret @Kilos , I bet the sound is beyond CLEAN! Setup looks like they really did it right.

 

The sound quality is out of this world! Downloaded all of my music on the Tidal app in full hifi, absolute clarity. I'm practically giddy with the outcome.

 

Sounds like skipping the line converter might be the answer for these head units!

 

That's exactly what KarTunes figured out (for non-JBL HUs). A fellow a Tundra owner at my office is getting his JBL version done soon and will likely need one.

 

Dammit just give it up, we all wanna know lol

 

Let see who can guess closest. I say with all the work done and materials listed, 2400-2500? Not really sure what a shop charges in labor.

 

Crew - the shop asked that I not post the cost. All I can say, it is worth every penny in my opinion. @TruckyTruck less than your estimate, including install.

 

JL stuff is great. I'm not surprised you love it!

 

Dirty signal from the head unit. The powered line converters amplify it. If you get a head unit that doesn't put out a dirty signal, you might want to play the lottery too... ha

 

That may be the problem... I'm the installer and competency hasn't been proven. However, competent design and quality of Toyota's head units aren't either!

 

Hello, i am new to the forum. One quick question, did they have to do something to the door to fit the 6x9's or is it capable of fitting 6x9 stock?? I just got a 2014 Tundra Crew cab and dont know what size speakers it has.

 

No mods to the door needed, the factory front door speakers are actually 6x9. However, a new mount does need to be used.

 

Brett, can you send me a PM as well? That is almost exactly the setup I had spec'd before I was onto *********. I have not done anything yet but would be great to know the diff.

 

and amateur hour installers crossing speaker wires over power wires and insufficient ground connection.

Nice setup! I have zero white noise as well. I'm very happy with my sound, even with the Entune HU. I decided to go Alpine for speakers and added the audio control (I'll post prices, seeing as you can google anything):
OEM Entune non-JBL w/ Nav
Audio Control LC7i ($130)
JL XD1000/5v2 amp ($830)
Alpine Type-R SPR-60C 6.5" Components (front) ($330)
Alpine Type-R SPR-60 6.5" Coaxials (rear) ($230)
JL 10" TW3 subs x2 ($300/ea)
Audio Enhancers dual 10 box (sealed)
Hushmat for doors ($50)
**waiting for audio control bass knob to arrive ($25)

Total for parts: $2,195 + speaker box (I don't remember this cost)

 

White noise can also be from a low grade amp.
I had white noise.... actually alot as I also had a powered LOC too.
First I changed out my HU, the noise was still there but significantly less.

Now I reduced the gain on my 4 ch amp. The white noise is gone, but the highs dont scream as before.
So I am getting a high end 4 ch Amp --- JL XD400/4V2

My previous Amp is a Rockford Fosgate Prime R250/4
Although the RF Prime mono amp is fine for the 12 inch sub, the 4 ch amp should be a quality one to avoid white noise and distortion.

 

What sub box did you use?

 

Nice choice going with the JL. I have the XD1000/5v2

 

They are definitely great amps.
Hoping it gets rid of the white noise completely

 

So what are the dash and center speakers doing now? Run off hu? I was under the impression the entune line outs are goofy and make it tough to set up with an amp and no dsp.

Also did you consider 2 10s instead of the 13?

 

The JL Audio sub I chose, came with a prebuilt box designed specifically for shallow mount applications.

 

Did consider two 10s, but opted for the 13.5 (which acts more like a 12). Mostly due to the fact that it came with a box designed by JL Audio and allowed me to keep my jack/accessories mounted behind the seat. (Less space taken up)

For the dash speaker, with a non-JBL system, the center speaker actually runs the voice control and isn't active for stereo output (according to the shop that installed it).

 

That wasn't a stealth box was it? I was looking at a JL audio power wedge that came with a 10 in installed in it, but someone said it wouldn't fit behind the seats. I believe it was 6.5 at the base and 4.5 at the top. They said the top was too thick.

 

I'm 99% sure this is the one included with the sub I purchased.

http://www.jlaudio.com/sb-t-tundcmax-13tw5v2-car-audio-stealthbox-94410

 

Thanks, I was hoping you were going to say it was the power wedge which is about $450 cheaper then that one.

 

I mounted the tweeter from my component sets in the factory dash location and disconnected the center channel. I'm running 2 10's and still have the jack and accessories in place. The amp and audio control are both mounted under the passenger seat in the factory amp location