4hi error

2014 Limited CM 4x4(ish)

Bought the truck from auction. Through the inspection I don’t know how I freakin missed cycling 4wd, but I did. Now it’s mine and I figured out a 4wd issue

Here’s what is happening... I have the truck running, in D an at a stop. Turn Knob to 4hi. After a second I can hear a slight clunk below truck, and then both 4hi and 4lo lights blink continuously together. From that point, moving back to 2hi doesn’t get rid of the lights. If I turn truck off and back on (while in 2hi) the lights go away.
I have read a bunch of other threads on this and can’t seem to find the exact same issue. Most seem to have the lights hit and freeze after successfully being in 4hi, or are issue with the lights coming on randomly.
Have checked wiring harness at actuator and don’t see anything amiss. Though two of the connectors were not attached the the metal clips.

I just read about the front diff actuator last night, so will be giving that a visual inspection today as well as getting the tires off the ground to see if I can tell if there is any change in the driveline when attempting the shift.

Trying to figure out what the most efficient diagnostic path is (easy/ cheap to hardest)

have read a few threads discussing $4k repair quotes so I am really hoping we do t get anywhere near that. I also have a really good general mechanic who can do the harder items. I’m hoping to save some time and money by handling most of the diagnostics my self.

Any help is appreciated!

 

Take it to a Toyota dealer and have them look at it/diagnose. Might cost you $75 buck to get their opinion.

Yes, information isn’t free but that could be good starting point.

I have a ‘14...never an issue...how many miles?

 

yeah, thinking about letting them diag.
It’s got 149k

 

Have you changed the transfer case fluid? Maybe it got water in it or something. At 6 years old it should probably be done anyway and it might fix the issue.

 

have not done this yet. Another good thought. This is what worries me about allowing a dealer diagnose. I imagine them saying the actuator assembly needs replacing, then quoting $3k or more. Then IF I had them do it, they would take TC apart in the course and refill it. It works in the end, but could have been something as simple as the fluid.

 

Any chance it's just not shifting into 4Hi correctly because you're stopped? What if you roll forward a bit while the lights are flashing?

 

Good point...transfer case for 4 Hi or 2 Hi tends to shift more consistently if I am rolling forward...something I have noticed over the years.

 

Well that is where you have to step in and manage the common sense...if you have gone through the trouble to get approved to buy at auto auctions, this should not be uncharted territory for you...it’s worth the fee to see what Toyota thinks.

Doesn’t mean you have to then pay them to fix, nor does it mean they are right. It’s just a potential step in solving this problem.

 

I have noticed that also, I haven't had 4HI engage unless I was moving. Now 4LO, completely different situation. If you listen carefully while someone else shifts it, there are 2 (click/clunk) sounds one at T-Case and one at the front diff.

On another note, I was having issues with mine coming out of 4LO, and had a local shop, not Toyota but reputable, exchange the T-case fluid while I had it in for an oil change. It cost about $20 for the T-Case fluid swap with Toyota 75W MTF. If I had done it it would have cost me $15, so paying someone $5 was worth the money and my time.

Mine is a '14 CM with 93000 on the clock.

 

have tried shifting while moving slowly- both in fwd and reverse. No luck.

 

Completed oil change and front and rear diff fluid changes. Have to go get 75w so I can do the TC. the front diff was waaay nastier Than the rear, with more sludge on the mag plug. I am assuming this thing hasn’t seen 4wd in quite some time, and a large part of my issue is that things need to be freed up.

Another note- almost all of the posts and videos I have found regarding replacing the actuator motor was on the pre-2014 models and not the ones with the BW TC.

 

you are partially correct. Though not sure what is meant by managing common sense. I bought the truck at auction through a friend who is a broker. So I’m certainly not out there buying at auction all the time and flipping them, if that’s what you are insinuating.
But yes, I know that I can have the dealer diagnose and then not have them so the repair.
The aversion to the dealer is more about our current logistics cable he’s as a family, and Covid making it tougher. This truck is my primary vehicle and I am not able right now to leave at the dealer for a day or two while they look at it, if there are options for me to do myself.
This condition isn’t keeping the truck from daily operation, so I have time to look at it bit by bit.

 

The manual actually says you must put it in 4WD once a month and drive for 10 miles. It's a great excuse for me to the wife, but I now understand why. The PO of my truck probably never used 4LO.

I was looking at replacing the Actuator too, but fortunately got the 4LO to work, then had the fluid changed. I have yet to find any information on the T-Case besides it was designed by Borg Warner, and the test units were having catastrophic failures when they mated with the 5.7 so BW had to re-engineer it for Toyota specifically. I found 2 types of actuators, one with a gear that moves a rod into place for the different 2HI, 4HI, and 4LO and then one with 2 rods, one engages 4HI, and the other engages 4LO.
Gear Type: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdh8tlxfgnU
Rod Type: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6VBRTYZe1g

The part number is 36410-0C010 according to this diagram.
https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota__/63097486__6732510/TRANSFER-LEVER--SHIFT-ROD/841430-3611.html
Looks like the rod type might actually be it.

Looked up the part online
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/v-2014-toyota-tundra--sr5--5-7l-v8-gas/transfer-case--motors

 

That is some good information thank you for enlightening us!

 

Glad all my research won't go to waste. I thought I might even have to replace the T-case after my long driver home in 4LO. A 10 minute drive ended up taking 90 minutes.

 

That was the first thing I thought of too. My 07 has to be moving to shift into 4hi, but I would love to be able to shift into 4hi at a stop

 

Wasn’t insinuating anything. Trying to figure out the situation and how to help.

 

Mine will do the exact same thing on occasion. I keep meaning to take it in but I just haven't gotten around to it. Mine is an 07. I also HATE having to take it to the dealer, especially when the problem is so sporadic, but that's the best place for this type of situation IMO. Unless you know a Toyota Master Tech, which I don't.

 

If I understand the mechanisms in play during 4WD it needs to engage the front differential, ADD - Automatic Differential Disconnect, and that is why we have to be moving. The ADD replaces the need to lock the hubs. Sometimes I can't help but wonder if all the "Electronic" luxuries are worth the hassle when they fail. My first Taco had manual everything, including the windows, and it was a great little truck.

 

I have a similar issue with my truck, 4hi works fine but 4lo sometimes it won't engage or sometimes when it does engage it doesn't want to come out of 4lo. so changing the fluids fixed that for you?

 

Next diagnosis step complete. Put the truck on jack stands, placed it in drive in 2hi. Let the rear tire begin rotating at idle, and tried to engage 4hi. Heard the clunk underneath again. Verified by looking underneath that the front prop shaft was not turning, signifying it is not engaging at the TC.
Ordering the 75W to do the change. Then will see if that loosens anything up. My assumption Is that the shaft in the actuator is stuck from not being used. Not sure if the fluid change will help this, but is needed anyway. Once the fluid change is done, will look at pulling the actuator and seeing if it’s cleanable or just needs replacing.

 

So far it seems to work as expected. I haven't had a chance to thoroughly test the 4LO again, besides on flat straight ground. I'll have to take it up into the mountains again and see how it works.

 

Ok thanks @sf319

 

You already sound like you know what you are doing, but this video helped me understand the system. Might not help in your situation though.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=47m7QAPrpsI

 

Really cool video!

 

Stopped by the local stealership today to inquire on the price and availability of the illusive 75w oil for the TC. Parts guys first brings out 75w-85 and I inform him it’s not what is specified. He then needs my vin to look it up. Goes in back, gets someone to help him find it as he’s never heard of it before. They find 2 cans of it. He then tells me they are $97/ per quart!!

The next part I needed was a new battery strap. $40!!! Wth?? I tell him never mind I’ll order it online and he was stunned. I guess in suburban Atlanta he is more used to people just paying what they ask for it

 

09 crew max
4hi is flashing
I have determined that front drive shaft is turning(transfer case engaged) and front axle is not engaged (actuator is beeping)
I have plans to fix actuator ASAP
How risky is it to drive like this
?

 

Amazon for both.
Ravenol 75W MTF:

RAVENOL J1C1003 MTF-3 SAE 75W Full Synthetic Gear Oil - 1 Liter for Manual Transmissions, Differentials & Transfer Cases

https://www.amazon.com/Ravenol-J1C1003-Manual-Transmission-Fluid/dp/B00QPCL7ZE
Battery Hold Down:

$10 Genuine Toyota (74481-0C030) Battery Clamp

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-74481-0C030-Battery-Clamp/dp/B00FYMFURM

 

So long as you have the switch in 2HI you can drive it. There is no mechanical engagement of the front end so you should be able to take freeways etc without issues. Post up any pics if you DIY the Actuator replacement, not sure if any are here on this forum.

 

Transfer case oil changed today. Super easy on the BW. Will post a quick reference as everything I have seen so far have been the ‘13 and earlier Aisin.

Fluid was very clean.

no luck though on the shift. When user the truck and someone switches to 4hi, you can audibly hear the actuator click, and then click again about 4 seconds later. My assumption is that it is trying to engages and something is stuck, so it reverses back and throws the flashing light error.

Have not been able to find any info on servicing or repairing the BW actuator, so any thoughts are welcome on next step. I know on the previous actuators, I have seen many people successfully remove, clean, and reinstall with success. I just don’t know which part would be good to remove first, and what things to have ready to replace just in case.