2002 Tundra new to me: Questions

And its the right color too!

 

haha...

Going to pick up a bed cover today as the bed will be used to store things when I am on the trails.

 

backflip G2 tonneau cover ordered!

 

If you have the budget to replace the belt, replace it. If not, then wait a half a year or a year then replace after u have plenty of dollars. That belt looks fairly new tbh. If i were you i would change it in about a year or less just for peace of mind. Grease your driveline, thats another thing u should do. Red n tacky grease is what i use. You will need a needle adapter for a zerk on one of the u joints, the rest are regular zerks. Do a tranny drain and fill. Mine took exactly 4 quarts to get the level perfect. I used the other 4 gallons to change my ps fluid. Bleed brakes if u know how to. Check coolant make sure its the right type and looks perfectly clean. Cant really think of much else

 

Thanks, my to do list is getting longer!

 

Dont worry its easy. Greasing is just messy. The tranny drain and fill is easier than an oil change.

 

First off...welcome!

Secondly, 6112/5160s and a deaver leafpack are a bit overkill for your stated use ("down long miles of dirt, nothing crazy, no rockcrawling, no towing."). 5100s all around with new coil springs and something closer to OEM leaf springs, like General Springs, would save you some money that you could spend on doing the timing belt (and all those other ancillary items that should be done when the timing belt is being replaced) right now. Deaver springs will get you a better ride...but you'll pay for it and it will still be a truck ride when all is said and done. IMHO leaf springs like Deavers become worth their money when you start using your truck outside the bounds the OEM intended. That does not sound like the case with you.

https://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Toyota_Tundra_2000_2006_s/1935.htm

Personally, unless you can verify it's been done recently, in addition to the timing/belt water pump/thermostat/serpentine belt I would do the following:

All-fluids swapped out.
Grease all your zerks
New Plugs
LBJs (hit a bad rut/rock/hole on one of those long dirt roads and you'll be stranded for awhile before the tow truck makes it out there...if they will come)
Brakes (and I would do an upgrade to 13WL calipers/rotors/pad...look at your calipers to make sure this hasn't already been done...if yours are stamped 13WE, you want to upgrade, if they are stamped 13WL, just replace the rotors/pads with new IF needed)
Denso radiator
Inline Fuel Filter
PCV-Valve
Rear-Diff breather...especially if those long dirt roads have any water crossings.

Things to check, and replace if needed:

Steering Rack (check for leaks)
Axle seals
Suspension/steering bushings
Tie-rods
Battery. How old is it? If you can't confirm the age or you can and it's 3+ years old (AZ heat is hard on batteries), a $100 new Interstate Battery from Costco is cheap piece of mind when you are parked way out on one of those dirt roads.

Also, based on your use case ("long miles of dirt roads") I would not go with a Michellin LTX. It's a great tire...if you spend 95% of your time on the highway. For what you are describing I would feel more comfortable with something like a Yokohama Geolander G015. Still great on the road...but with a bit more bite in the dirt. If you are going down long dirt roads...I don't need to tell you that sometimes they can surprisingly be less road-like and more trail-like than you expected, especially if there is inclement weather involved.

https://www.yokohamatire.com/tires/geolandar-a-t-g015

Thirdly...again, welcome to the forum. You bought a GREAT truck that will last you as long as you want it to with fairly basic maintenance...

 

Check out my build page if you want a list of things to do.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/the...vestment-‘build’-a-chronological-story.46816/

 

All my zerks are not very accepting of lube at this time! I busted through 4 along the driveshaft. there is one more: it is at the middle coupling at you can't get directly at it. This guy is not opening up. I have poked at it with a nail and the ball bearing is moving back and forth but I am not able to get grease in there.
Time for a short break as I go sell my $4itbox to a friend for $50. That hyundai elantra 5 speed really was a bargain for $3200 as it got me about 80k miles with no major work needed but at 200k, time to go.

 

There are 8 zerks total on the 4x4 models. You’ll need to put your truck in drive and move it forward 1/2” so the shaft rotates to see the others. There is the ‘hidden zerk’ inside the double cardan.

You’ll need to retrofit a grease tip to accept the front shaft zerks. Check my build page.

 

So I found all 8 but the ones in the double cardan are just recessed enough that the grease gun fitting will not grab. I do not have a grinder to fab the end. Other ideas??

 

You can make the grease tip fit the Double Cardan usually. You gotta work the angle. Move your truck forward some more. Otherwise, but a grinder.

 

Zerks done, trans pan drained and about 4 quarts refilled, silicon spray on the seat belts.
Hand Model = MVP Thank you. I look forward to digging into more of your build thread.

Tough day in the 104 degree heat in the car port but the sad new is that a wildfire is raging through our favorite local backpacking spot. A place where I formed so many memories. It is a real oasis on a mtn top in the desert. I hope my beloved grove and pools are spared...

 

Similar news near me, the Four Peaks area is a semi-local favorite riding area of mine. Saturday afternoon the size of the human caused fire was around 600 acres. It's over 40,000 currently.


The heartbreaking view from my backyard.

 

OMG. Sorry to see that. AZ on fire.

 

Timing belt... purchased my current 05 in late November from original owner @ 267K miles... ORIGINAL TIMING BELT!
i did all the needed maintenance, a few upgrades, and using 2019 4Runner TDR Pro wheels, added Falken Wildpeaks AT3W... a fantastic riding tire that looks great!

I went with 265/70/17... look into adding rear sway bar...

$541 Hellwig 7700 Solid, Heat Treated Chromoly, 1-1/8" Rear Sway Bar

Hellwig 7700 is one of the best upgrades you can do to improve the ride quality...

 

$541 Hellwig 7700 Solid, Heat Treated Chromoly, 1-1/8" Rear Sway Bar

Hellwig 7700 changed the truck handling entirely for me in a very good way.

 

That Hellwig sounds like a good idea...

 

Looks like hand tools can be used to install the anti sway bar. Do I need a vice to press the bushings into the various places they go?

Found a pdf from Shall36 that makes this install look easy.

 

No vise or pressing needed, sway bar bushings are usually split and slip over the sway bar and the brackets then slip over the bushing. It's a fairly easy installation.

 

Ye.