My subwoofer build for my 17 CrewMax

this should give you the room. i had to cut mine in order for the box to fit.

 

Try doing a slanted box. Even with just a circular saw, you can clamp in your own fence. Honestly at that angle you wouldn't really even need to cut an angle if the front of your box fits over the edges. It will stick up a bit over the top, but you won't ever see it.

 

Definitely do some sound deadening if you get rid of that part.

 

Looks good!

 

That back mat does nothing. I dont think the 2020's come with them (i could be wrong). That panel is the easiest thing to sound deaden, so might as well ditch the mat and put some noco or killamat on there.

 

UPDATE:

I decided to go a different direction and built two separate boxes....and they fit!

The boxes are 11” tall, 15” wide, and 4” deep. Very small but I wanted to make damn sure they would fit. Kicker spec’d .20 cubic feet minimum for a sealed enclosure and this design gives me 0.19 cubic feet...close enough.

Reluctantly I decided to return the Focal subs due to the fact they were too deep given my woodworking skill. Really hoping the Kicker L7T 8’s I bought will fit as far as the top portion of the sub including excursion. I estimate the total depth of the box and subwoofer including max excursion will be approx. 5”.

 

Sorry I'm late to Convo here but I have a 2012 DoubleCab that Crutchfield has Double 12 Inch Alpines in a custom box under the seats. For the 2017 CrewMax they have a rather pricey but quality 10" JL Audio Stealthbox for under the seats.

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_530/Custom-Subwoofer-Boxes.html

 

Is the .2 cubic feet before or after displacement? If kicker wants .2 after accounting for the sub you'll probably be well shy of recommended airspace.

 

Has anyone tried putting this sub box behind a 2016 crewmax with out removing the rear wall padding?

https://www.kicker.com/10-comprt-subwoofer-box-2-ohm

 

The 0.20 cubic foot minimum requirement includes the subwoofer displacement.

 

I used Noico mat over the entire rear portion of the truck and the doors in a previous project. I will be doing the front half soon.

Makes a huge improvement...

 

James @ Tech12Volts recommends just removing the entire rear wall pad stating that it serves no real purpose. He also said that even Toyota has discontinued installing the rear pad for that very reason. And Like @1999cutiger stated, just mat the back wall with Noico or some other equivalent sound dampening material and you will be good to go. I used Noico on my back wall, floor and all four doors. Made a HUGE difference in the quieting of the cabin from outside noise and the difference in the door speaker sound is pretty dramatic. The bass on my factory door speakers was improved now that all of the huge holes in the door under-structure were now sealed. I have since replaced my entire factory setup with after-market. I wish I had done this 8 years ago with my '05 4Runner. Oh well, with age comes wisdom!

 

Love my car audio. 51 yrs old. Had systems in all my vehicles since high school.

 

Duratex coating applied to the boxes. Subs have arrived. Waiting for these boxes to thoroughly dry so I can proceed with the next steps.

 

Done.

 

Nice!

 

Those look great.
Something to consider. You can stuff your box with polyfill. It's just a type of pillow stuffing you can get at walmart.

It in a sense tricks the sub into acting like it's in a bigger box. Insulation works the best but only in a sealed box. You can use pollyfill in a vented enclosure also. You just need to screen off the inside of the port. i believe is about 1 pound per cubic ft. so in your case a half of pound.

A few good box building resources are:
-Pc only, winisd. though it takes some time to understand and use.

-Torres box. Pc and mac . https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/38791-torres-box-tuning-calculator-updated-818/

-xplicit. android app

All are very accurate and excepted by the audio community.

 

Excellent advice. I used polyfill inside both of them.

Hopefully it will help somewhat given the small size of these enclosures.

 

I plan to use L-Brackets to secure the enclosures to the truck.

I am nervous as hell about drilling holes into the truck body not knowing what is underneath and what I could hit.

With my luck, I'd hit the fuel tank.

Can somebody tell me a safe place to drill the holes without any chance of hitting anything underneath the surface?

 

why not try some strong velcro and set it on the carpet? Unless you are doing some serious off roading, it'll hold just fine.
i've got my amp rack secured down with velcro and it tough to pull it off if i need to get to the back of the amp.

 

Honestly, if the speakers and boxes aren't all that heavy then i don't see a real problem.

They aren't in a place that they could be a hazard if you have to mash the breaks.

But i would encourage you to secure them the way that you feel is the most appropriate.

Can't really help you with finding safe drilling points, but you could try using that angle metal that has holes in it. i can't remember what it's called but it's sold at most hardware stores.. It's commonly used to mount garage doors and garage door opens.

 

Not a bad idea at all.

I wonder if the enclosures will want to flop forward given they are top heavy.

 

You could always put a piece of velcro on the back of the box and the other side on the back of the cab.

 

And if you REALLY want it to stay put use this stuff

$20 3M SJ3560/CLR1333 Scotch SJ3560 Dual Lock 250 Reclosable Fastener: 1" x 10 ft., Clear

https://smile.amazon.com/3M-SJ3560-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TSNTCX6G4Z34EV75HF02

 

Test fit them today. Plenty of room. Getting closer...

 

Does anybody know what bolt size/thread pitch this hole is? Thinking about using this to secure my enclosure to the back wall.

 

There is a Velcro called "poly lock" that the pieces look the same but lock together. It has a peel and stick 3M self adhesive that will hold just about anything.
One piece of each on the back wall and the back of your box, push firmly to get them to stick to each other and you are done.
If you have to remove, use a flat head screwdriver and pry them apart.
Mike

 

Getting closer...

 

Looks very professional! Interested to hear how it sounds.

 

I cheated and went pre made for 99$ and added a Kenwood shallow sub. It thumps really nice.

SoundBox Tundra CrewMax 2014-2017 Single 12" Subwoofer Enclosure, BedLiner

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KW1R6YW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


this was 119$ a few months back. Its worth the money and made of really nice materials and sounds nice after it got broken in. I had to turn the gain down after a few weeks. My commute is short to work about 10 minutes

$199 Kenwood Excelon KFC-XW1200F 12in Mount Subwoofer Car

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PKDOQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1