What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Thanks bud, forgot where that button was! Man, this site would be nothing without you! Thankfully you’re here!

 

Rotated tires and inspected the ABS Sensor areas on both rear drum areas. The repaired Drivers side has no leaking that can be seen after 100 miles on it. Looks like the ABS Ring is way off center compared to the pass side original and its slightly jacked up. This is the Stealer repair side in the very bottom pic.

Pulled the Pass side ABS Sensor off and looks like some oil has infiltrated the ABS zone. No leaks in the drum/shoe area, but without having ever checked this area before its hard to know what to expect. The oil has some rust intrusion from the looks of it. Seals were changed about 7-8 years ago. The bearing is original and maybe where the rust is coming. No worries until it leaks into the shoes I guess.

 

After some analysis, looks like stealer pressed the ABS Ring on too far. They must have cut off the Retainer Ring and nicked the ABS (see pic). I see no where that a press could have gotten behind/between the ABS and Retainer to pull it off (so they cut it). Their receipt shows no new ABS Ring install on this last repair round.

Now the question is: Is that ABS Sensor able to read this ABS Ring thats pushed in too far?

On the other axle pass side: Is that oil/rust affecting the ABS Sensor negatively?

 

Changed my pcv valve today. It is way too easy for there to be a sticky thread on how to do it. But hey, i have my moments as well

 

Uuhh. Ya. About that. I still can’t find mine.....

 

All I know is that that ring is almost certainly what caused my random ABS activation. I need to put my fuses back in and see of its still happening.

 

Huh? Driver side valve cover. If it’s never been touched it’s buried under rock hard foam right by the throttle. Yours should be a screw in not pushin

 

Pretty easy to find.

 

I'm almost positive there shouldn't be oil in there like that. Definitely keep an eye in the drums. If even the toy techs cant get it right in multiple attempts I know I'm doomed.

Uhh, why did that make a link?

 

"Don't forget to dislike and smash that unsubscribe button!"

Sorry, my inner youtuber came out.

 

got some new tires put on my 4runner wheels.

 

Wish my truck was that color!

 

Yeah I knew that way. I was thinking a way that was a bit quicker might help like a fuse or something. If I'm on the wrong side of home and need to go through "peaceful protests" I'd rather not have my airbags go off if I need to push something out of my way to get away from "peaceful protestors" trying to break my windows, pull me from my truck, and peacefully beat me with protesting rocks.

 

I know that ABS Sensor was stuck in the plug pretty well and it took some time to wiggle it out while prying gently underneath with a flat head. I could see this thing getting damaged easily. Also, on the put back that oring could damage easily. I cleaned up the plug entry with emory cloth and lubed the rim and oring before the put back. I also sanded clean the magnet tips back to shiny.

My ABS light has not come on before or after any of this work starting back to the first botch. I need to go out and test this system in real world events since this work last week. I know the system worked before because I tested it on gravelly type situations.

You might want to remove that sensor and grab some pics from down in there. Turn the drum (wheel off) with your breaker bar wedged between the lugs so you can see the entire ring turn inside the plug hole.

 

Yeah. I tried to clean it out with a rag and screw driver poking, but not enough room to get down into the bottom where the oil is pooling. The ring grooves acts as a paddle boat type system bringing the oil back up as the wheel turns. The rusty side is my old original bearing side. Seals replaced 7-8 years ago. From studies, it seems the Retainer Ring develops a groove in them over time from turning on the Seal Lips. As long as she isn’t leaking into the drums I’m ok, but yeah its not good as you say.

 

If you cut this bracket off it makes the job of checking the PCV and/or replacing it easier. Its an easy job of replacing the PCV regardless, but that bracket end just gets in the way.

Only problem that you could face when replacing the PCV is that rubber grommet that holds it in for the 2000-2002 years. That thing deteriorates and can fall into the Valve Cover if its brittle. Later years had a screw in type PCV.

 

Airbags should only go off if you have a sudden deceleration, such as hitting a brick wall causing you to slow instantly. Hard enough to throw you forward into the steering wheel. Also doesn't activate until a certain MPH. Just hitting something shouldn't set the airbags off. The SRS system fuse appears to be shared by the fuel injection as well? don't think you can just pull a fuse to disable it without disabling other systems as well. Good news is, if you pull the plug on your airbags (I do not recommend this) There is a fuse for the SRS warning light you can pull. If you're gonna mess with airbags, unplug the battery and wait 20-30 minutes. Then touch the two battery cables together to make sure its fully discharged. Then unplug or change whatever you need to change before hooking the battery back up. Not sure if setting off the warning light will have to be reset by a bodyshop scanner or if it will reset itself. The passenger side airbag may have a switch on the dash like mine that you can turn off with the key.

 

Finalized and installed the quick disconnect sway bar links. It a little bit of a PITA to reconnect them on the ground, but it beats not being able to do it in the first place. I had to drill out and file the sway bar a little to make the 5/8 bolt shaft fit properly on the 05 bar.


I got some generic polyurethane bushings and had to use a torch and a hot bolt to melt the holes to the right size. A drill bit didn't quite get the job done.

 

Welcome to the rust belt fellas. This muffler is almost 3 years old. The one hanger on the muffler was the only one still connected.

 

Brutal. Looks like the rust attacked the rear seam area. I’d paint some Ospho on that thing if its not Stainless. Was this the old muffler you thought was Stainless, but was not?

 

Nice work!

 

Correct, new one is stainless so we'll see if it lasts any longer. It at least has a lifetime warranty so if it needs replaced it'll be free anyway.

 

Waxed.

 

Ordered up some seals for the passenger side rear drum leaky. Did some math on the old seals being about 8 years old. That made the originals about 9-10 years old when they went bad. Makes sense. Gonna nip this in the bud before the oil leaks into my drums and ruins my new Toy shoes.

 

Since my shocks finally arrived after being lost by USPS, I was able to do the shock relocation kit by Archive Garage!

Took us 5hrs (just two of us). Took a good amount of trimming on the drivers side to fit the massive 3.0s plus piggyback Resi...and chop chop of the exhaust after the muffler. But turned out awesome. Fit perfectly! Well done Eric at Archive Garage.

just need to replace that rear brake line with the extended one I’ve got and I’ll be able to get some after measurements.







Just a little improvement...

 

Replaced the rack bushings with poly bushings. Pulled both boots off to check for play in the inner tie rods.... and when I pulled the passenger boot off, it was about 1/4 full of power steering fluid -_-

Other than a Toyota R&P, any suggestions for racks? Has anyone replaced theirs, and what brand did they use?

 

Consensus seems to be either Rack Doctor or Detroit Axle racks if you don't want to spend the cash for Toyota.

 

Sweet truck!

 

I’d spend the extra and get a new Toyota Rack as its about $200 more in the grand scheme. I’ve found this place to have the best prices for new OEM parts like Steering and Axles.