What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I used some homemade cut offs from some composite plastic shims made for home building. Jacked the truck up by the frame and wedged some metal wedges in gentle to open the tips to accept the shim. Loaded the bottom of the shim for adherence with Fuzeit so the top slides on the the next leaf up as designed. Works! Still have a clunk on slow 90° turns back there thats probably bushing based but no more squeaky binding clanks (especially in cold weather season).

Squirt your leafs with some PB Blaster and enjoy the smoov ride after doing the wedges. The Fuzeit won’t stick to PB if you spray PB before install. Do it after.

I really want some new leafs with new shackles and bushings!

 

I’d love new leafs. But deaver expo leafs are expensive.

 

Looks different especially on the lips seal. I’m leery of any aftermarket seals now, but yours is OEM and redesigned? Haven’t studied this aspect of the truck much other than I’ve seen mucho mangling going on in this area.

Whats the Seal Part#?

 

This looks like a fun little project as mine have been broken for years, but still was able to lock them with special assistance. I never use the rear windows anymore so not sure about doing them based on others saying the new cams and fitment aren’t proper on some of their reports.

Bet you are stoked on the wind eliminations!

 

90311-47027 I think. Or that's the other side. I have both.

 

Exhaust updated:

I had some text messages with Keith at DD's and he said it sounded like exhaust leaks which I've said before it definitely does seem like that as well. Wasn't sure how much of a difference it would make.

Either way, I grabbed a shop vac today and taped it to my exhaust in the "blow" orientation and soapy water. I was a bit amazed at what I found......

Exhaust Leak Locations:

1. Weld on the cat flange leaks (magnaflow cat)
2. Weld on the moved o2 sensor location
3. o2 sensors (both upstream and passenger downstream)
4. Both attachment points at the header
5. (2) bottom rear bolts on the header to head. I feel like I can tighten these up and I had already thought this may be a spot that would leak based on my angle of tightening.

My plan - Tighten the areas that I can and see if that helps. After that, I need an exhaust shop to fix the two welds that leak.

I HOPE after this the exhaust will sound cleaner than it currently does. I am NOT routing anything through the side until I'm happy with the tone and then I will go from there. I may still need to add another muffler inline to tone it down some but fixing the leaks may be enough..

Oh - I ordered some stuff. NuLens to clean up my headlights (as well as my LX470 that are a bit hazy) and a MaxOak 500wh portable power station.

 

Those are a lot of leaks.

I can tell since doing all 4 o2 sensors that my exhaust has quieted. It wasn’t loud at all before, but it definitely sounds quieter. I think some air was getting past the rear o2 gaskets on WOT and letting off a ppffffttt sound. Now, it sounds like everything is flowing straight through to/out the tailpipe.

Remember, I put on a new OEM muffler and it quieted a hair as was expected. Fast forward and I didn’t realize leaks around o2 Sensors would make a difference after doing them 2 months later, but it does.

 

@FrenchToasty @lsaami

Does this look flush? Can't seem to drive it in any deeper but it looks like there is still room behind it.

 

What are you using to drive this seal in place?

 

How big of a lip can you feel with your modeling nails? It looks home to me, I wouldn’t send it past flush. But you can give it a good thump and see if it moves more

 

That's the East Coast bushing. I used French's specialty tool. He also loaned me a seal driver for the seal I just used.

 

Yeah it's done. Won't budge. It's flush too.

 

your truck just got better

 

yup. It’s acceptable for it to be out just a hair due to machining tolerances per ECGS instructions. Mine hangs out just a hair.

 

Tightened up all bolts where leaks were present. Def made an improvement. Need to test again to verify them get the welds fixed

 

I'm embarrassed at how long it took but I'm finally done. I never would have thought removing the needle bearing would be the easiest thing I did today. I think the slight grind @KarmaKannon did to the tool really helped.




That ratcheting wrench made it easy.

Very exciting video below. Grab a beer and enjoy.

https://youtu.be/FbcJ2enO6gI

 

Got the last SR5 badges off and got the mudflaps back on. I kinda liked having them off but we will see if I take them off.

With all the trim blacker the bed rails seem really out of place being so gray.

 

Pop them off and spray them up. They are easy to remove and reinstall. You can tape off the tail gate cap and spray it right on the truck if you use care.

 

I had them off for a few days and I was thinking of spraying them. I just am not too sure how long the trim paint will last.

 

Spray them again if they fade.

 

Im more worried if they chip off. Have you sprayed yours? if so with what?

 

Sprayed mine with Bed Liner by Rustoleum. Proper prep is key. Lightly sand and wipe with alcohol. Spray according to cans directions. Holding will with no chipping. Prior years I’ve used Rustoleum Matte finish on my trim that looks good for about 2-3 years before fading and then needs a re-do. This time I’ve given the Bed Liner a shot. Been on about a year with no fade. Time will tell.

 

What grit sandpaper? Might try trim paint first.

 

He's right. You'll want to sand them. It knocks off some of the oxidation and gives the new paint something to stick to. I painted mine and I'm really glad I did.

 

I didnt sand my mudflaps, I kind of forgot about it. I have a feeling the flaps aren't going to last long. What grit should I use for rails?

 

since all my plans were destroyed for today, i did my cluster color change. (aka sanding)

 

Yes it is so nice not hearing the wind anymore. It’s a lot quieter in the cab now

 

I don't remember the exact grit but it was real fine. You don't want to cut deep marks, just take the top layer off.

 

Came out pretty dang good