currently changing timing belt - have a few questions

I bought the manual and am working through the 28 steps for removing the timing belt. I just finished step 16 (setting the engine to TDC). I'm hoping to finish the rest tomorrow after work, and I have a few questions:

Step 19 - Remove camshaft timing pulleys
Is this actually necessary? It seems to me that the belt would just come off after the tensioner is removed. If this needs to happen, do I need SST 09960−10010 (camshaft pulley holder)?

Step 22 - Remove crankshaft pulley
Do I need SST 09950−50013 (crankshaft pulley remover), or will a standard 3-jaw or 4-jaw puller work?

 

I am getting ready to do my own timing belt and hope to use these videos as reference:

• 1AAuto part 1 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TZTn1Arjho
• 1AAuto part 2 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM1A0DWhRHc
• OTRAMM (updated) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dO8KW1-NQs

 

Got to yoitube and search for OTIMM, hes probably has the best videos you can find

 

Go to you tube and search fot OTIMM, he has the absolute best video on the 4.7 Tundra, very detailed and engine is out of the truck so you see everything plainly.

 

I didn’t remove either cam pulley didn’t seem necessary. Yes, the crank pulley comes off. I used a shot of PB blaster and some taps on the pulley w/ a rubber mallet and she came right off. Getting the new belt on will be your next challenge.
My method to install new belt:
1. Start with the crank and lineup crank mark on the belt with the white dot and feed belt to the LH (drivers side) cam.
2. Turn LH cam 1 tooth clockwise and feed belt so the LH marks on Belt line up with notch on the cam. (This gives you enough slack to get the belt on)
3. Turn LH cam CCW back to the original mark tightening the belt on that side.
4 Turn RH cam 1 tooth clockwise
5. Feed belt partially over tensioner and place belt so mark lines up with RH cam notch. Feed the belt the rest of the way on.
6. Turn RH cam CCW back 1 tooth so marks line up again to orig position tightening belt between cams
7. With belt fully on, use a 22mm socket and turn crank 2 turns until cam marks line up again.
8. If marks line up pull the tensioner pin and chill

**** after using this method and spinning the crank so the belt traveled around four times, the marks on the belt seem to move one notch clockwise but my cam and both cams were still in the proper alignment. Likely the slack between RH cam and crank is the reason. It had me nervous but I was confident the motor was lined up perfectly. Put everything back together and she runs great.

Good luck to ya!

 

All you need is a harmonic balancer puller, most jaw pullers are not deep enough

 

Thanks to everyone for the replies, especially all the YouTube recommendations.

Thanks for the step-by-step. That should be very useful.

Thanks.

 

I couldn't watch the videos until I got home. Wow! Really wished I knew about those when I started. Extremely helpful.

One oddity I found - Since I have the towing package, my alternator has 3 fasteners instead of the normal 2. The video says 2. When the alternator wouldn't move, I checked my service manual. In the electrical section, it makes a special note just for the towing package and shows the 3 fasteners (1 bolt, 2 nuts).

I just got the timing belt out. I recently bought this 2005 2wd DC 4.7. It has 220k miles and no service records. Based on the pics, it's a good thing I'm changing the belt.

 

Cam seal question - I've read on this forum that cam seals are a pain to replace. As I recall reading, you have to take the cam out and disassemble it. However, it the video below, he just pulls them out from the front of the engine. What am I missing? Is it only that easy on the 2000-2004 engines?

(my link starts at cam seal removal, t=5:28)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gcM_-fN-44&t=5m28s

 

Easy on 00-04, not easy on 05-06

 

Looks like you got it just in time. Hope you are putting a Mitsobishi timing belt on your truck

 

I went with the Aisin kit that the forum recommends. It came with a Mitsobishi belt.

Here's everything I'm doing as part of my refresh. I'm right at $800.

 

Because Air Injector Thingys?

 

I'm no expert but I'm guessing because they introduced variable valve timing (VVTI) in 2005.

 

You could have gotten out for a lot less at www.timingbeltkit.com., they put the quality parts together for you at a whole lot less than you spent. At least you will know for the next time. If you ever decide to do suspension go with AC Delco Pro parts, about a 1/5 the cost of Toyota OEM and made in Japan, cant tell the difference except the part numbers. There are a few things you need to got Togota for but not much, I have spent a lot of time locating the highest quality parts without spending a fortune

 

Nice belt link on the total kit. Looks complete and to be all Japanese Sourced Components.

 

Just though of a couple of things that will help . Purchase the Toyota gasket seal in the tube. Here is part number, way better than the stuff you get at the pars store

$23 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

00295-00103
Since you are doing the valve cover gaskets i would replace the spark plug seal and these do need to be Toyota parts

 

Great tips. Thanks.

I bought the Aisin brand for the sealant (Aisin AB1207B1). When I ordered everything for this project, I had only read about the Aisin version. Is the Toyota version preferred?

For valve cover gaskets, I bought a Felpro kit (

$30 FEL-PRO VS50592R FEL-PRO VS 50592 R Engine Valve Cover Gasket Set for Toyota Tundra

FEL-PRO VS50592R) that comes with spark plug seals. Good enough?

Thanks.

 

You are on target, you can also put a thin coat on the valve cover gasket to help lock into the cover and it won't falll out during the install. Yoh will need this again when installing the thermostat outlet to the water pump. One other help is some silicone paste by Mission Automotive, you can by on Amazon, impossible to find at auto parts stores. Put this on all you O rings will help the install as well as sealing, great for any rubber part.

 

I wiuld look closely at the gaskets to see how close they are to the original. My gaskets didnt start leaking until 325,000 miles so the OEM is great

 

Good news - The valve train looks pretty good for 220k miles

Bad news - When I tried to install the timing belt, the LH side was off one tooth. I tried to move the cam wheel, and it took off and rotated a bunch. Now I have to get everything back in alignment without driving a piston into a valve. I took off the valve covers and removed the spark plugs so I could more easily detect interferences while rotating things. I was going replace the plugs and gaskets anyway, so no extra work. Ugh.

I found posts #11 and #12 in . I'm using that to get my crank and cams aligned.

 

I had cam movement while doing the belt on my '07. It scared the crap out of me. I just calmed down and reset the cams and then very carefully slipped the belt back on. You should be OK. There really needs to be a tool to lock the cams in place. It doesn't take much to move them.

 

Saw a picture of a TB job and the guy used some quick hand clamps on each cam pulley to hold the belt in place when removing old and installing new.

 

Hopefully it only rotated about 90 degrees or so, dont panic. This is where you need your cam wrench. The key thing is to have all the indicators on the cams and pulley line up with the indicators on the belt, if they were all lined up when you took them off you just need to move the one cam back in line. DONT move anything else and you will be ok.

 

@chester

Did we recover from the cam slippage and move on to success?

 

Yeah. Turned out to not be a big deal. Just had to take my time. Everything is back together it runs great.

One thing I learned - Don't use a breaker bar to rotate the cams. Use a ratchet instead. The cam takes off as the the lobe passes max lift, and I thought a breaker bar would help me control that. It doesn't. It just loosens the big bolt.

 

That is where the cam wrench comes in. You can find on Amazon