Need help with tire size plz, dealer doesnt know

I have a 2020 tundra crewmax sr5 sx; I used the 1/2 inch coachbuilder bumper shims; toyota will only install a 2.5in leveling kit for the front end ONLY, not the back, or it will void my extended warranty.

it is on the stock black wheel with the +60 offset

I want to use duratrac's, and i want to use the tallest and widest tire i can without cutting (which is why i installed the front bumper shim, but i am willing to try to use a heat gun and push in the front wheelwell more if necessary).

255 70 18 (32.1t,10.0w, 7.0in sidewall) stock on my 2020
275 65 18 (32.1t,10.8w, 7.0in sidewall) stock on my 2017

WRANGLER DURATRAC - SIZE:

LT275/70R18 33.2t, 11.0w, 1.1in tllr, 2/10 wider
LT285/65R18 32.8t, 11.2w, 7/10in tllr, 4/10 wider $315
LT285/75R18 35.1t, 11.2w, 3in taller, 4/10 to 1.2in wider
LT295/65R18 33.1t, 11.8wide, 1in tllr, 1in wider $313
LT295/70R18 34.3t, 11.8w, 2.2in tllr, 1in wider $330, will fit on 7.5in rim


I would like to use the LT295/65R18 as it is probably both the widest and tallest i can use;

alternatively, one taller but not as wide, but i am thinking that may look stupid, i dunno.

any help appreciated

 

I’m not the pro here but..295/65/18 should fit problem free. Search this forum it’s been done before!

 

that is what i was thinking too..... but when i had the bumper shim put on, at raben tire, they didnt feel the 295 would fit because of the +60 offset and it was very close to the inside already....

but i thought i came across users that put that 295/65/18 on here in this forum..... without cutting metal.....

i 'have' to have toyota put on the leveling kit according to them.... so they know it is installed correctly and to not void the extended warranty (cost me $1200 for lifetime bumper to bumper, all thing covered unless normal wear and tear).....

that is their policy for their shop.... which is where i bought it..... i can handle that.....

but then they have to do an alignment no matter what.... according to them......

so i have to get the tires now so i dont get another charge for an alignment......

yet they cant tell me what tire size

frustrating

cause they wont trim/cut

the 295/70/18 would even be better.... but i couldnt find any info on that at all for this truck with a 2.5in front only level kit on stock rims

 

295/70/18 will be tight! With 295/65/18 I bet all you would MAYBE need to do is slightly bend up you skid plate or trim a little. Super easy to trim the skid plate! and maybe only rub at full lock? IF it does it’s still drivable.

 

hmmm... i would need to have that skid plate cut someplace else..... i wonder if it would be ok to just remove the skid plate beforehand without them freaking out about voiding a warranty.....

if it is easy to remove, maybe i should do that in advance...... and then bring it someplace else and have them cut the skid plate.....

 

Alignment after you get the lift installed for sure.. But not with just getting new tires!

 

yes... that is why i am getting the tires there..... they are going to put the lift on..... but then must do an alignment..... so i figure i will do the lift, get the tires, and have them do the alignment once, saving $100 or whatever the cost is for alignment.....

i will stick with the 295/65/18 idea as i just came across a threat with the 70's and they had to cut the skid plate

but i could not find any data on the 295/65/18 and the need to have to cut the skidplate.....

 

FYI..I grabbed a pair of pliers and bent the skid plate up. Then when I had time trimmed it about 1/4 inch.

3/1.5 lift 305/70r17 +50 offset RockWarrior wheels 33.84 diameter 12.24 wide.

I think you’ll be fine

 

you can gain another inch of clearance if you trim the bumper liner.

here is how i did it:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/trimming-front-bumper-liner-and-mudflaps.63755/

BTW, mods do not void your warranty:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson–Moss_Warranty_Act

they have to prove that your modification affected a warrantied part. if proven, they can deny a warranty claim, but they cannot void your entire warranty.

for example, if you install a lift and then your air conditioning fails, they cannot deny fixing the AC because of the lift.

 

those are some wide tires..... and i guess because they are 70's, it brought it back up to 33.84in on 17in rim...... hard to find the right balance it seems

i am not against new rims...... but it seems if i drop offset much at all..... it requires even more cutting...... altho 50 would probly be perfect.... i have never even seen 50 in 18in; at customwheeloffset i found 40 offset, but i read that anything less than 41..... and one has to do a bmc

difficult to balance all this when one doesnt really even know how all this works very well

 

Just get the size you want and make the mods to eliminate rubbing as needed.

Half the fun after you get the new tires installed isyou get to find out where the tires are rubbing and make adjustments until it's gone

 

I do not understand how cutting it on the bottom like that made the area 'more open' as you still secured it on the bottom..... i mean isnt the bottom, where the bumper is, the limiting factor?

also, I placed that 0.5in front bumper shim placed by coachbuilder, the coachbuilder bumper shim (really it is 4 plates, 0.25in each, two on each side, for the 0.5in).....

isnt the coachbuilder shim supposed to solve this issue?


or?

or should i print out your pics on that thread and have some guy cut it out like that and it would help even more? or?

sorry for my confusion.... i am especially confused as how cutting the bottom part of it out yet securing it to the same area improved clearance

also, what do you think about the skid plate? with the duratrac 295/65/18 on the stock rims, +60 offset ( i think).... so i need to have the skid plate cut? if so, any instructions on that?


thank you so much for helping

i am saving your linke and printing it out

i have no 'abilities' with these kind of things..... so i doubt i could do it

seems others used a heatgun and a small basketball and ran the basketball back and forth and pushed it in or soemthing

 

yes, ultimately, the bumper itself is the limiting factor. However, the plastic liner sits about 1 inch out from the bumper. So, I drilled NEW screw holes so that the liner will sit closer to the bumper itself. The trimming that I did was to allow the liner to fit closer into the bumper. If you need even more clearance, then you have the option to trim the liner. You can use a heat gun, but I think trimming is a cleaner look because it retains the visible part of the liner.

the coach builder bumper shims are another great and clean way to get more clearance. However, it only gives you an extra 1/2”. For my application, I needed more clearance. So I trimmed the liner instead. However, if I went up to 35” tires, I would have to also install those bumper shims.

If you run a wheel with a +60mm or a +50mm offset and a taller tire, you might have a difficult time fitting a 295 width tire. With that high offset and a wider tire, you run the risk of the tire hitting the upper control arm. Here is when I had 295/55/20’s on a 20x9 +50mm offset wheel. There is about 1/4” of clearance.


Depending on the tire, you could fit a 295. Find a shop that will test fit your tire choice on your truck.

for the skid plate, you can trim it or you can bend it. I think most people just bend it. I don’t have a skid plate so I didn’t have to worry about it.

if you need any help with anything, send me a message and I will be happy to help.

good luck.

 

I have 34” tires on a 20x9 +20mm offset wheel and I didn’t have to do the body mount chop.

 

thank you for all your help;

1. so by doing the trimming you did, you gained another 1 inch of clearance, right? does that only help with tire height, or does it also help for tire width?
2. I do not understand about the 'skid plate' bending and trimming. please look at the photos i have taken here.... i cannot figure out how this 'skid plate' is interfering with anything at all, as it seems to be at least 1 foot if not even more from any part of the tire
3. i would rather not even lift the truck, to be honest. i am trying to get a wider and taller tire to fill up the wheel well space; maybe i dont even need to put a lift on it if i trim like you did along with the front bumper shim? what would your recommendation be for the duratrac to look 'good' on the truck, preferrably being a bit wider and taller to fill up all that space (you can probly see my truck photo on here.... tires look tiny as compared to the wheel space)

 

If i could do it over again i would go 285/70/18.

 

i see that duratrac makes that..... that would fill it in real good i think..... i wonder if i trim the wheel well like @Netmonkey did, along with that 1/2in front bumper shim, if i could get those duratrac 285/70/18 to fit without a front end lift......

i would rather not use a lift.... based on my research, i have definitely confirmed the 285/65/18 duratrac will fit without a lift but with some trimming

would be nice to use netmonkey's trimming trick to gain an inch more.... and perhaps this shim... and no lift at all..... and put those on.... would fill it nicely

cause i really just dont want to lift it... i mean then the tire will look small in the wheel well again

 

1) yes, by trimming i gained another inch. it helped with the tire diameter and the lower offset wheel. the lower offset pushes the tire out farther and causes a greater radius when the tire is turned.

from your picture, i added 2 red dots. there is about where you would drill 2 new holes for those 2 bolts to go into. you would then have to trim the liner for it to sit in its new position.



2) it does look like your skid plate is out of the way. you probably would not have to do anything with it. here is where most people would have to trim or bend it:


3) with the bumper shims, you have a ton of room. you can remove the spats to give yourself a little more room too. all you have to do is remove the 2 bolts that i circled:


you can easily fit a 33-34" tire, but to go bigger than that (and run 295's), i need to know how much clearance you have a full lock and at the upper control arm. can you take these measurements?

turn your wheel one way to full lock and measure the distance from the tire to the front liner and from the tire to the body mount/mud flap. also, measure the distance from the upper control arm to the tire. here are example measurements that i took:






i think you may have a harder time fitting a 35" tire, but i bet you could get a 34" tire in there.

 

@Netmonkey , i think you are correct, I do not think the 295's will fit.... that brings them inside another 0.8in as compared to the 255/70/18 duelers on there as they are the same rim and i am not changing the offset.

You certainly have been *extremely* helpful.

I do not want to change the rims as these rims look pretty good actually, IMO; I did notice that your offset of 50 *really* moved them out alot.... I would not think that there would be much difference in a +50 vs +60 offset, but in fact it is substantial (i went to a calculator site and saw just how substantial it was); and with your +50 offset, they were still close to the controller arm.

this has all been a real headache, lol, but i would not have come this far without your help.

I am going to have to print out all your pictures and examples here and on the other link you provided; I doubt I can do it, but i guess i will try to trim that wheel well.

I guess i will need to buy a tool to cut it. what is a good tool to try to cut that wheel liner? and did you also drill new holes into your truck, or did you re-use the existing holes in the truck or?

If you drilled new holes, did you get some sort of self tapping bolt?

After much review here, I have decided to use the Duratrac LT275/70R18 33.2t, 11.0w, 54 lbs, 1.1 in taller, 8/10 in wider than the dueller 255/70/18.

If I somehow figure out how to trim the wheel liner as you have done, along with the bumper shim, do you think i can get those duratrac 275's to fit without any lift at all?

If not, do you think the coachbuilder 0.5in shim spacer that goes above the shock would work (supposedly that lifts the front 1 inch)?

Or maybe it would be easier to just get the coachbuilder shim above the shock and not have to trim?

I am thinking a 1 inch lift wont cause issues; toyota wants to just put the trail FX 2.5in lift on the front only--i am thinking that may cause further issues, perhaps with traction control, perhaps with angle changes and wear and tear on the vehicle, and.... then it would make the wheel well look even BIGGER--and i am not wanting that; i am wanting to put on a bigger tire to fill the wheel well.... lifting it will probly just make it worse.... but maybe not an inch....

 

I put on LT 275/70R18s on stock rims With a 2.5” level/lift and had rubbing on the skid plate. I ended up going with an RCI skid plate.

 

you should be able to easily fit a 33" inch tire without any further modifications. you already installed the bumper shims, so you should be good to fit 33" tires. do not trim the liner at this point. the only thing that could possibly need to be done is to remove the spats that are on the liner. remove the 2 bolts and they come right off:


as for your other questions....

• to cut the liner, i used tin snips for the major cuts and then and used a razor blade for the finer cuts and to clean it up.
• when repositioning the liner, i did not make any cuts or drill any holes into the truck. only the liner was modified. the original bolts were used in the original holes in the truck.
• you do not have to lift the truck to fit 33" tires.
  
• the main issue that you have to be concerned about when lifting a vehicle is getting a proper alignment. if you dont, then you can get poor tire wear and poor handling. with a 1" lift, you should still be able to get a proper alignment. the coachbuilder shims are an easy way to get a 1" lift. at 2.5" of lift, you are at the edge of needing aftermarket upper control arms. i think most people are able to get a good alignment at 2.5" of lift, but some have had issues. at 3" of lift, you do need aftermarket upper control arms.
  
• i havent heard of "trail fx" suspension. i assume that it would be a spacer lift. i recommend not getting a spacer lift. instead, use the bilstein 5100's on the middle (1.5") or top (2.25") setting. they cost a little more, but they are a better lift option than spacers.

for reference, here is what a 33" tire (295/55/20) looks like on a 1.5" lift (using the 5100's on the middle setting):


in my opinion, a 33" tire on a 2.5" lift would look too small. if you are going to run the 275/70/18 tires, i would stick with a small lift (under 1.5") or none at all.

 

295/70/18 fits let me see if I have a pic of my old wheels. You just need to cut take off the little “wings” on each side of skid plate. No big deal

 

heh.... it is easy to fit 34's on a 3" lift; especially when you use an aftermarket bumper

the OP is looking at a small lift or none at all. he would have more to contend with if he ran 34's

 

@Netmonkey, right, it looks like he has a custom bumper and a 3/1 lift to fit those taller and wider tires, in addition to removing 'skid plate wings', whatever those are.

once again, thank you very much; ok, i wont trim. i did buy the 0.5 inch coachbuilder shock shim... it is a solid piece, unlike the traditional 'spacer'; I am not sure if i will use it or not; i doubt it would 'break' and i doubt it will cause alignment issues; yes, the trail fx is a flimsy looking and much taller spacer (2.5in) and it is the one toyota recommended to install.

trailfx:
https://www.trailfx.com/trailfx/sus...X-Leveling-Kit-Suspension-T25LL3--TLFT25LL3#/

here is the coachbuilder shim:
https://shop-coachbuilder.myshopify...der-strut-coilover-shim-provides-1-00-of-lift

i will keep it 'just in case' until the tires are installed..... then maybe i guess i will try to sell it to recover lost money

 

If you don't want to mess with any of the minor trimming, just go with the 275/70/18. Those will fit on a stock truck without any type of lift or rubbing. You could also go with a 2" or 2.5" down the road if you wanted and they still look good. I ran that size on my truck with stock wheels and stock suspension, and still have that size on my 2" level.

 

Parker44, what did You do to get level?

 

The dealer saying they will void your warranty is a scare tactic. Get the documentation for your extended warranty and read up on the Moss Magnusson act. Here's a thread I did a while back after seeing tons of people being terrified about getting their warranty voided. https://www.tundras.com/threads/if-you-are-asking-can-this-void-my-warranty-please-read.60493/

 

@Netmonkey

 

duratrac LT275/70R18 125/122R 33.2in tall, 11in wide

There is about 1.75in clear in the front of the tire and the rear of the tire

and there is just a little over 1/2 inch... perhaps 0.7in... clear before it touches that inner controller arm

I am thinking 285/70R18 would have fit?