What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

@lsaami what sort of vibration are you having? It isn't tires?

What wheels are you runing? The stock comes from your avatar?

 

Stock wheels. It’s a driveline-esc vibration. Faster than the wheels turn. I feel it in the steering wheel faintly, but also in the floor. It feels exactly like a bad u joint, but there are no more u joints to replace.

 

@lsaami that's gotta be hard to trace. I assume the donut coupler thing has been replaced on the driveshaft.

If not the shaft, not the coupler, not the wheels or tires, I might look at the motor and trans mounts. My gut says there has to be something out of balance to cause vibration but it's possible that a mount is failed and is transmitting vibrations that you normally wouldn't feel.

 

Did you get a road force balance? After three "regular" balances I continued to have vibrations as you described. I finally got a road force balance and it solved my problems.
May not be your issue but thought I would throw it out there...

Good luck!

 

Yep, new u joints carrier bearing, drive shaft balanced, new cv axles, upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, new steering rack bushings, LCAs and bushings, new shocks and coil springs, leaf springs, drive shaft phased correctly and drive angles check out.

 

......headers installed...

Nuts came in today which was awesome but holy hell did this install whip my ass!!!

I made a few mistakes I absolutely regret and should have known better but I am impatient. I temp installed the headers while waiting on the nuts. What I didn't do was remove the studs from the few that came out and I had to try to get those back in while the headers were installed. (they were NOT in easy to reach places)

Also, removing the nuts in those tight places is MUCH easier than trying to thread on new ones!!!

The pass. o2 connection is stupid!!

Lastly, the damn 00-02 BAMuffler is meant for an 00-02.....the pass. flange needs to have about 3-4" removed and welded back on. This was the biggest pain because the muffler was installed to both cats so I had to undo the cat, install to the header, uninstall driver cat to exhaust, reinstall exhaust to pass. cat and finally realize the damn thing just doesn't fit!

Needless to say, I'm tired, my truck is super obnoxious and I'll deal with it later...

The positive side, I have to take to exhaust shop immediately so I might as well do my side exit through the body and just wrap this thing up!

No pics tonight.....

 

honestly at this point. get yourself some massive bolts to put where the axles would go, pull the axles, use bolts and nuts to tighten the wheel bearings to spec and drive without front CV, if the vibe is still there its all rear related or tire related

 

@lsaami I know it's frustrating but don't give up on the truck. You'll never get back all the money you've put into it, even if it was $1,500 originally. You're close to figuring it out.

 

You have an interesting voice. Not what I was expecting. You sound like a 1960's news anchor mixed with Ron Swanson.

https://youtu.be/XDE9e0IZkbI

 

I thought the same.

I bolted down a pair of Thule mounts. For now they're just gonna roll like this but later I'll drop nutserts in so they're easier to remove.


Inside my bed is pretty colorful

 

My face was against the cell phone when I took the video to get it all in frame. That doesn’t help lol

 

Yes like your pic....

4.5A each.

Just try it. Worst case you blow the fuse and figure out a solution with a relay and circuit.

 

Operation Zzzzzztttt! Part II

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll have to give that a try. Another thing I was thinking is to put my stuck struts back in without the spacers.

 

You're pretty close to maxing it out. A good rule of thumb is to keep it under 80% of the fuse rating. 20 x .8 = 16A. The fuse can handle it, but its gonna get hot quick. And the relay might not like it. It would suck if it arc welded itself closed. I'd add a second fuse and relay and use the original relay to trigger it.

 

I know how long I hold the horn for when horning.
But do 'regular' people hold the horn that long? Or do 'regular' people just give 'er a beep and move on with their lives?

**I can neither confirm nor deny if PHM is in anyway 'regular'.

 

I image he uses it to scare children and small woodland creatures away from his yard, so probably long honks.

 

Here is my Dumb Hand Model Rationalé:

1) Horn only gets used in short bursts.

2) Using Horn in long bursts will burn it up like you say. Would avoid long bursts. Can’t avoid long bursts if alarm goes off and hazards lights are added into the equation.

Questions:

1) What if, instead of me adding two more Horns, I add only one horn? Thinking of just adding the ‘high noted Horn’ as I think @NUDRAT did on his hotrodder.

 

Archive Garage has more leaf springs in stock. Just ordered mine!!

 

I pull into neighbors driveways, that I do not like, and lay on it.

 

Short would be better heat wise, but you still get massive inrush current that can weld contacts shut. The good thing is that DC doesnt do it near as bad as AC, but it's harder to release than AC, due to the constant voltage vs fluctuating voltage.

A third probably wouldn't hurt, and should be just fine.

 

I will try just adding the one horn on the pass side ‘High Noted’. Its a single wire and hand model mangle proof? Zzzztttttt!!!

 

Followed the PHM model again.

Replaced gas cap. Cleared engine codes.

You never know. Original cap o-ring cracked, and torn.

 

You have the attaching bolt/s empty & waiting on the other side. Will also keep symmetry & proper feng shui for healthy engine bay.

 

I see you borrow Master Sensei Compass he use to Navigate Himalayan Mountain Pass during winter storm. Today it also use for other thing. It say, ‘Stay true Ugly Grasshopper’.

 

Pre-Game Part II on the Horns. Removed them again an cleaned up all the contact points inside the clips and the slide tabs inside the Horn Assy which had some corrosion due to its being on the front line of the environment. The mounting brackets (where they mount to the frame) had some dirt behind them and those were cleaned/sanded, as well. Used Electrical Grease on all spots/contacts. Horn sounds louder already.

Used my Milwaukee Impact on the backside of one Horn to crack open the bracket nut to allow for better pivoting angles. I love that tool. Saved me tons of headaches and time.

Just waiting on the OEM Horns in the mail. I plan to use some 14/2 hard wire and stab into the back of the OEM clips to make these work before committing to another method. Might end up being permanent. Just want to make sure nothing blows up!Zzzzttt!!!

 

I just drive Tacoma with shot muffler to work, come home after they go to sleep.
Works better for neighbors one does not like - "plausible deniability".
Manual transmission allows one to fine tune the note of no mufflerdom.

 

I lol'd.

 

Finished the passenger side CV swap today. The boots that CVJ puts on these are impressive. I accidentally scraped them multiple times and never even nicked them.

Torqued the axle nut down with big bertha I ordered off the Big Gurl. I'll start the driver side Tuesday I think. I'll have to track down new LBJ bolt to replace the one I snapped. I think I'll do all 8.

 

Coming from the world of Tacoma’s, it’s generally accepted to order 8. New bolts from Toyota. A lot of bolt failures where they sheer off after being reinstalled in lifted trucks.

ending in expensive stuff breaking