1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I feel like everyone is like a retired hand model these days. They are are all outside staring at their grass, pulling weeds, and in general clogging up the big box store gloves aisle. Its a good life, but not when everyone is messing up my quiet and peaceful retirement by getting in the way!

Get back to work you ugly maggots!

 

I've been working this whole time and I can tell you the martians are starting to go back to work...at least in central Indiana.
My commute has changed from stressful 45-90 minutes each way (25 miles) down to ~25-30 minutes at peak shut-down (again, here in IN), and it's steadily trending back towards 45-55 minutes. Also, gas prices are on the rise.
These ugly maggots will be out of your hair sooner than later.

 

I have been on call & working the entire time, and Georgia opened before everyone else so the roads & places of business are becoming more crowded by the day... bars open on the 31st!

 

Been working from home entire time. Not going back in office until June at the earliest. Our shop has been open the entire time as well.

Getting a solid 3 weeks to the gallon!

 

Same here. My wife's job is saying she can work from home permanently which is great. We'll save gas plus wear and tear on her Rav4. My company still hasn't said when we'll return to the office.

 

This is awesome. I remember your calls dried up for a while there. Stoked for you to be making money again. Still tons of people here wearing masks at the grocery so not sure how many would go out to bars if they were open.

 

There are two brackets that connect the bumper to the frame, it all depends on the rust. No rust, it's a 20 minute job. I would climb under there, pb blaster it every day for a week and then try and remove the bolts. If they come off, you're set, if not, leave it as is.

 

Taco stuff came in today, full gasket set for my spare test engine, and the SOS rear disc conversion...

 

@empty_lord what's the trick to adjusting a parking brake on our Rav4 with rear discs? I poked around back there but didn't see anything obvious.

 

If it’s anything like our Runner, you have to line up a hole on the rotor to the star wheel to adjust it. So you need to keep turning the rotor untill on of those openings shows you the star adjuster, on the lower part of the assembly

 

Not sure if anyone remembers, but I was looking for a tundra 03-06 with a 00-02 front bumper with the stock grille and I found A guy in Japan that has one. Not sure if its stock and Im not even sure they sold Tundras in Japan but here it is.

 

Also I was looking at AJT fobs for a replacement shell for mine but it says its not compatible with the fobs with the redlight at the top. Anyone have any other ones that will work? My fob shell is pretty toasted and I only have one.

 

https://youtu.be/lQzdxXvMYEY

 

Not sure what you mean but I use to watch this show as a young teen I think.

Edit: lol I see the video now. I do remember this now.

 

Click the vid link above and enjoy!

 

Adjustment is at the bottom of the hub, go through the hole in the rotor.

 

Anyone that's done the CV replacment please weigh in. Aside from new seals for each side of the differential, what other parts should I order? New cotter pins for the axle nut are on my list.

Tool wise- a pry bar or similar to help pop the CV out of the diff?

 

I think you have to remove the lower ball joint and tie rod as well right? Definitely a pitman arm puller, maybe another set of cotters for the lbj.
A sharp chisel to get the dust covers off.

 

Axles typically come with a new cotter. You can reuse the but no issue.

mall you do is take the lower ball joint loose from the 4 bolts, pop axle out of the hub, then pry bar to pop the axle out of the diff. A good seal puller and a seal driver for the new seal. Reverse removal for install.

 

If I may throw out a consideration...
Shipping is at peak levels, delivery dates are no longer gtd. I'd probably hold off ordering any 'delicate' cosmetic items right now.
As a specific example, my receiver hitch finally came in last night - well actually I went & got it. The box all taped up, the ends of the frame rails of it rubbed raw. Receiver hitch is tough steel, I find Tundra bumpers to be soft, never seen an undented one IRL.
I'm not sure now is a good time to order that bumper.

 

Thanks, one video the guy removed the caliper and rotor but someone in the comments said that wasn't necessary.

 

I think the wood piece looks very nice with our brown leather seats and the leather on the doors.

 

It's not that bad a job... in the middle of doing it myself on my 05 Stepside. You do NOT have to remove the reinforcement from the frame. You can pop the plastic pads off (center, then each end) to access the bolts that attach the bumper to the reinforcement. There are a few that run on the bottom of the bumper as well. You ALMOST CERTAINLY will have to replace the 2 corner supports along with the bumper. If I recall correctly there is about 10 or 12 bolts (12mm socket head). Remove the tailgate from the bed before you begin. Take your time, heat them and they should free up if the rust is not severe. (2 of mine still broke, 1 on the bottom, 1 on top).

Take your time, coat the hell out of the back/inside of the new bumper (bed liner, undercoat etc...) before you put it back together. FYI... a NEW chrome bumper from Toyota runs about 350.00 each corner support about 15.00, new plastic step pads (regular bed) about 30.00. The PAINT It style about 195.00. I went with chrome to save paint, prep and material costs. Good luck!

 

Test engine?

 

It’s a engine I got for free. 252k miles. With trans. Going to test gasket matching gains, Camry cam shaft feasibility and some other things (shingles’s buckets and stuff)


Basically a cheap way to test things before I do said things to the $7,000 engine Im building.

 

Stupid discount tire. All 4 wheels they seemed to gouge into the clear and into the paint. They are sending a mobile detailed/paint repair person to the house supposedly, still haven’t gotten that call

 

But they gave you green Wurrlld Peas Stem Caps! You saved three trees today.

 

Guys i got this "problem" with my steering in my truck. Didnt want to make a new thread about it. Basically when hitting a pothole or going over railroad tracks, my steering wheel vibrates. It doesnt mess with me going straight, but the steering just doesnt feel solid..its hard to explain. It like clunk/vibrates/shakes/shimmys lol. My dad says it might be struts possibly.

 

Your struts wouldn’t do that. Check your rack and pinion, Tie rods, and your steering Shaft for okay.