What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

nope, they’re OME 2885s

 

How does the gasket go on? Does the gasket go on first, or does it rest against the header and go on at the same time?

 

Depends on which attachment method you use.

I have the JBA bolts that came with the headers but doing some research on that now and it seems like most people recommend OEM stud/locking nuts. I also read these weren't reusable (anyone can confirm?). Trying to find some on the interwebz now in case I go that route (new OEM). I already have OEM gaskets as the JBA's seem to not be the best.

But, to answer your question, if you use the studs, you would slide the gasket on first. If you don't, then you would need to rest against the header and probably put at least one bolt through to "hold" it while you thread it in.. This has me thinking OEM would be easiest as well as the best for not over-tightening.

 

OEM nuts are not reusable, studs are. I can't recall the technical name for those nuts, I want to say they are castle nuts. If I remember right they are almost oblong and they squeeze the studs when installed tightly.

Toyota wanted a pretty penny, I got the price down a bit and even though it still seemed expensive I figured I'm saving money on labor. Don't forget you'll need 6 more nuts for the collector flanges.

 

I'm going off memory because the headers are in the bed of the truck but I don't recall the JBA's being threaded? I thought it was nut/bolt combo for that. Also, I don't think (at least on mine which were replaced at least once) that the nuts were locking like the header. I'll double-check.

Good to know I can re-use the studs although I may need a few as some came out with the locking nuts so not sure I can get those off or not. I'll try. This may change the game plan for tomorrow on installing but we'll see!

Appreciate the confirmation.

 

@imDementeD at the collector flange there are three bolts and nuts per side, the nut is the same as the ones on your header. You might be able to reuse some of your old ones there since at least if it fails it's easy to replace. When I did my headers I got 23 nuts, one extra just in case.

 

That is excellent

 

So I met my moms bf for the first time and we got to talking about my truck. I mentioned I wanted to get a tube front bumper welded up at some point and he says he welds and can probably build me something pretty soon. So he texted today asking what size tubing I would want, 2" or 3"? And also asked to send any pics or drawings of ideas I have. So needless to say im pretty excited!

So my question is, what size diameter of tubing would you guys do?

 

I like this design without the "toyota" lettering

 

rattle you say? i wonder if thats what im hearing with mine then..

 

Getting off topic, i'll D.M. you.

 

I plan to make mine 1.75 and 1.5, 3 would be a bit big. Maybe go 2" for the main tube and run smaller for the supports.

 

Do not reuse the gaskets. sometimes you can get lucky, but the 4.7 is known for gaskets failing. why risk it?

 

I love it! Its mean sounding! No drone at 60-70mph. only cabin loudness I get is in second around 2700rpm, but after that it quites down in the cab. Might be because my snugtop is bouncing that frequency.

 

I purchased new oem gaskets. Wouldn't ever reuse those!!

 

Yea idk how else to describe it but is like a rattle/ raspy sound right before redline. It sounds like it was coming from driver side. Didn't realize others has a similar experience...hmm

 

its like a resonance sound to me. oh well more reason for headers.

 

I’m planning to do the same. This looks sweet!

 

Same spot where mine was cracked !

 

Did you have the rattle right before redline? Is it gone now?

 

I think the term I remember them being called are Spring Nuts.

 

Same here. I'm going to inspect my steering shaft seal today just to rule that out. Some say it's just noise coming through that rotted seal.

 

The noise is very distinct, loud and I doubt it's noise just coming through as it sounds completely different and only right at redline. Nowhere else in the rpm range does this happen.

Either way, was up a little after 2am and couldn't get right back to bed, then my son woke at 3:30ish so been up for a while. 7 am I went out and got the headers out and started to tinker. I went ahead and put the gasket on and got the header into place. I was going to just put (2) leftover bolts on to hold it while my order ships, HOWEVER, the damn flange at the bottom/front of the header is hitting the a/c compressor! It's very slight like the studs are aligned but the header won't go back because it's hitting. I think I'm going to try a couple "taps" and see if it's just a small angle that I need to get past.

Will keep updates coming as I move forward.

Pic of contact:

 

Amen to that!

 

Where in the hell can i get that done, and how much lololol

 

2uzfe summed up in one picture lol

 

Two tone!

I hear 2 distinct pops when backing and turning, both from the rear end. Then 1 pop as I straighten up and go forward.

That is 100% cheating. Beer is a necessity while working on vehicles, almost as important as that damn 10mm....

 

@bmf4069 if I'm going slowish i can turn hard left to right and the pop follows left to right each time. Super annoying. Looks like we have the same problem, its a very distinct pop and none of my mechanics can figure it out either. Other helpful members on here have pointed toward the leafsprings and related items

 

I'm thinking it's in the driveshaft. Either lack of grease or shit carrier bearing. When the wheels go a different speed slowly it strains the open diff and make a pop somewhere in the driveshaft as it rotates. That's my conclusion. It's probably wrong but I like to overthink shit a lot.