What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

totally forgot to post this last night. but the anytime camera stuff came in. got it hooked up sans the front camera.. because that wont be here till next week, but everything works, tight fit with the harnesses.. might end up making my own harness to condense the wires behind.


double tap mode button, brings up backup or front cam. seek up or down switches between, turns off after 30 seconds. ot hold seek up and camera will stay on indefinitely. Reverse still works as stock, and front camera comes on when shifting into drive, stays on for 30 seconds or till you hit a certain speed (one reason i hooked up the speed signal)

 

I changed out my rear window plastic hinge deal for the Amazon aluminum ones. Although they fit it doesn’t seem like the seal is as tight.

 

That's disappointing to hear. Maybe a good wash & some silicone to the gaskets will fluff them up to make-up the difference.

 

I had the same issue. Feels like the windows are "pooched" out away from the weatherstrip more than they used to be?

You can bend the brackets SLIGHTLY towards the inside of the cab to improve the seal. I also put on a small bead of bulb grease (because I have A LOT of it) on the weatherstrip to improve the seal also (I could not reach the "front" of the window towards headlights, but anywhere I could get my fingers in got some grease.) I rarely use the access windows so its not that big of an issue for me.

 

Yesterday I made PHM proud and reapplied some FUZZZZZZZZZEE to my roof drip molding. I had a few places that didn't want to stay down. That should teach em!

 

Bummer. I’ve seen a couple sellers online. Were these the made in USA Aluminum ones?

I never use the rear windows so this repair has been on the back burner. Like Tundra2 says maybe bend the cam a hair to tighten it up.

 

That seems a fair offer. I picked up my 03 4wd with 39k mi for about 18k a little over a year ago. I wouldn't let it go for less than 20k.

 

I can't speak for @NUDRAT, but I specifically remember mine being the "made in the USA for tacoma/tundra". The pin was a super tight fit, and I actually had to file a minute layer off each pin hole to get the original pins to fit.

 

Its been a while, but IIRC these Big Gurrl cams were like $10 a set and brand new OEM Toy plastics were like $29 each. I need to re-research.

 

IIRC, I would say roughly $30 is about spot on. Its been a while since I looked into that.

I was just thinking that in hindsight it probably would have been easier just to change the whole bracket.

I can't remember the mounting points for the bracket on the rear door itself, but I suppose few washers could be installed on the mounting points. If my thinkings are correct that would also "drawl the windur" towards the cab.

The "Made in USA" units I used are these.

Dasher Deals Billet Aluminum Latch Pivot for First Gen Tacoma Tundra Rear Quarter Window (Pair)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00877TP4K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_3qSSEbWSEMD4K

OEM UNIT $40

$46 Toyota Genuine Parts - Lock Assy, Quarter W (62920-34012-B1)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006M65YG6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_atSSEbJRA053X

 

I did an oil change yesterday. The Fumoto valve is great, albeit a little slow due to the small diameter. Still worth it though.

 

That's great, I love the La Platas. Very familiar with La Plata Canyon in Hesperus, fun to drive all the way up to the notch at Kennebec Pass. If you are in NM, you must be close to Farmington. Great pics.

 

How slow are we talking? I think something is wrong with mine. It took nearly 90 minutes for all my oil to drain last time?

 

It took me about 20 minutes to drain mine. Towards the end, I got the bright idea to remove the fill cap. That seemed to help quite a bit.

 

Yeah, 20 minutes I can live with. Was your oil cold? Last time they told me to let the truck warm up first.

 

Yeah my oil was fairly cold. I only let the truck run for a minute or so when I pulled into the garage. Next time I'll go for a short drive to warm it up.

 

Your truck looks great. I don't see that color often. What are these lines running under the truck?

 

Alright, there is no reason why mine should have taken 90 minutes, even cold. I wonder what's up with that. I had the oil cap off also. I'll have to try it again and report back. If I didn't have the oil pan skid plate I'd just toss the Fumoto.

 

What is the benefit of the valve? No tools for oil change?

 

Partly that and partly efficiency. It's also much cleaner. No oil on your hands or tools when removing the drain bolt. You can also connect a tube to it and drain directly into a jug or disposal container.

 

That sounds real nice. Does it add low hang fruit for obstructions? I would HATE to be be driving, and then snap that valve off and then run out of "or-el"

I really don't care about getting oil on my hands, or clothes. I have plenty of work shirts I can turn in, and have replaced through work.

 

It's tucked up pretty well. It's maye 1.5" long, tops. No worries about it busting off imho. I don't mind getting dirty either, but if I can find a clean way to do something and not risk making a mess on my floor, I'll use it.

 

That sounds like a winner for you. Whats one of them units run? I may investigate depending on pricing.

 

I think I paid around $40 Canuckistani pesos for mine. Not sure what they cost in Freedom Bucks.

 

That doesn't sound terrible. I was thinking about it. With my upcoming suspension overhaul, and hopefully 2 inch lift, should be okay. Right?

 

No worries at all. You'd have to do something pretty crazy to take out the valve.

 

If the mess doesn't bother you, I'd probably save your money for other things. Honestly, the filter is always a lot messier than the drain plug. The ONLY reason I got a Fumoto valve is because of my oil pan skid plate. It would leak all over that plate without the valve.

But if you are curious, here are the product that work for our truck. The model I bought is not even on their website at all anymore.

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/?target=model_product&modelId=636133

 

Hmmmm, been thinking about getting a Fumoto myself. But with increasing my time for oil change I’ll have to reconsider. Thanks for the report all

 

I agree that the oil plug isn't the dirtiest bit.
I think I will browse, but most likely just save my money on my truck. This might be something I'm interested in on Moms sequioa though.

 

I always slip a large towel or some absorbent recyclable wurrld peas insulation under the oil filter before removal. My right arm is gorilla length so I drop it down from the top and spin the filter off. I do not remove my skid plate. Oil soaks into the towel/insulation and then that goes into the trash to offset my veggie carbon credit build ups.

Even a hand model gets his hands dirty. Thats what gloves are for.

What brand pumice hand cleaner does everyone use? I like the lanolin infused ones.