Hydraulic Bump Stops vs Bags for Towing heavier loads

So I wanted to post up in hopes of getting some of the experienced suspension guys and experienced guys that tow heavy loads frequently.

Truck: 2016 TRD Pro
Towing: Car hauler and jeep, roughly 8500lbs
Here is my backstory: I towed this cross-country and noticed that the ass end of my tundra was low. Like real low. Now, I know about tongue weight and even measured it to ensure it was set properly but the ass end still sagged. It didn't sag enough to affect steering or drivability, but enough to show me that this truck could use support while towing. It actually towed like a champ the whole way, but I would still like to add some support back there.

Pic of towing setup:


Onto my questions/concerns...
I know the first reply from everyone is going to be to run bags. I agree that bags would be a great addition to a truck that's a pavement pounder. I actually use my truck Offroad though on things like: camping trips, chasing Baja last year, was planning on going to KOH, etc. Moral of the story, my truck gets used pretty hard.

Having said that, I know some guys have run bags and cradles with little issues. I was actually thinking about going this route except that I am concerned with the durability of the bag during high speed events where the bag is going to get beat up pretty bad. I can't imagine the durability if the bag lasting a while when it has to constantly shift in order for it to find the center of the cradle during axle articulation. I would hate for something like to happen out in the middle of nowhere and have the bag get pushed into my tire and shred it. Does anyone have any experience with wheeling their truck and running bags/cradles?

Secondly, I have experience with hydraulic bump stops from my jeep. They are setup to slow down unsprung weight during high speed or high force events in suspension cycling. In theory, couldn't this be transferred onto a towing setup with a longer hydraulic bump stop? I did some web searching and found this:




They used a longer bump stop to handle the additional payload for towing. Effectively, the same thing would happen if you attach a trailer to the hitch. I am leaning more towards this setup since the stop is adjustable from a valving perspective and nitrogen pressure adjustment. This would also give me the option to swap between my towing bump stops and normal bump stops.

It is worth mentioning that the truck will eventually get either a full ADS setup or icon suspension. Haven't finalized this yet.

Thoughts/opinions?

 

I would go with a Weight distribution hitch it will keep you way more level when set up properly.

 

I thought about this too, but I am unsure of the capability of the leaf packs to be as linear as the stock ones. Presumably, going stiffer would affect ride quality which is something that wouldn't be fun when not loaded down. Unless I just go with just a stiffer overload leaf to help this. I guess a call to deaver may be in order to see what they can provide.

The main goal would be Offroad capability with the hope in more level stance while towing.

 

They do make Long Travel air bags that are designed for vehicle that do off roading and it doesn't limit any of your suspension travel (granted you aren't pulling like 18" of travel). Unless you are doing constant pulling, I would switch leaf packs.

As far as the hydraulic bump stops, I personally think that is a horrible idea. Those bump stops aren't designed to have constant pressure on them. What happens when one blows a seal? Now you have an uneven load because you are relying on that bump stop that failed.

 

I just looked into this and this may Help resolve my issues. This is why I posted in here. I've towed quite a bit, but it's always been super short distances and with shitty uhaul trailers so I never cared much. Now that I spent the money on a nice car hauler, I want to make sure I have the safest setup for the jeep and truck.

Appreciate it. I agree, if airbags were more quick disconnect, I would run them and a weight distribution hitch.

Yes, I understand the point of hydro bumps on cycling suspension, I was just curious about their potential application in towing. Technically, they kind of have an adjustable spring rate based on the nitrogen pressure introduced ti the bump. This is how air shocks work for crawlers. Higher ride height = more pressure.

Also, my thought process here was to use a longer than traditional bump (whatever made constant contact with the axle on tundras at ride height) and adjust nitrogen pressure as a test to see if it would help maintain a load while towing. Never said it was a good idea, just an idea. Based on that video though, it seemed like it could work to an extent.

Thanks for your input, but the same could be said about bags. I would actually trust a hydro bump more than I would trust a bag. Plus, if this were to happen, hydro bumps can be pulled out of their mount with 1 bolt. Bags, not so much.

I am not constantly pulling which makes this a pain. I like to use my truck Offroad, otherwise I would run a serious bag setup and maybe upgrade leafs. The towing part is secondary to make sure this works well Offroad.

 

I went w air bags. I dont go off road, i have 1600 lbs in tbe bed once a week. Pull 6-8000 lb trailer 6-8 times a year short distances. i keep 30-40 psi in bags all time. I upgraded rear shocks to help bouncing. It did help. I have one tundra. Its not great at everything but it does everything well. Leaf packs will wear out and a pain to install yourself. Air bags are just too cheap and easy.

 

Ah... I see. I was mistaken on that. I was under the assumption that it was a similar structure. I've had bumps and shocks apart a couple times, never an air shock, so I assumed incorrectly.

 

Hey Jason, love reading your posts. Very educational and looks like you have rebuilt/modified a suspension system maybe once or twice. I have firestone airbags with cradles on the rear of my 15' CM 4x4. I tow a 8500 lb trailer to the desert, air down the tires to 13 psi and off I go. I never get to high speed, but had some concerns with hitting hard on the bags at 5psi ( minimum setting ). These bags move very easy in and out with no air on them. What's your thoughts on plumbing in a simple tee and ball valve into the fill/deflate line and leaving it in the open position when offroading so the bag moves very freely under impact or droop ? just an idea I had to remove the hard impact to the semi-inflated bag under a hard impact. Thanks for any thoughts you Mad Scientist !

 

This is my rig last summer over 8k with the trailer and Tacoma, a 240lb tent at 150lb rack and around 800 to 1000lbs of gear in the bed.
With the 14k equalizer WD hitch the truck is level with no load

 

I wouldn't recommend that I have Firestone bags and it removes the bumps (well mine do) that why they require 5psi minimum. Unless you have another bump set up in would leave them at 5psi.

 

Yes that was a concern, but from what I know this particular bag has an internal jounce bumper.

 

Good to know I'm going to looking to that to see if mine have one as well.

 

I added air bags for the boat not the flat bed. My boat is light about 5000lb wet but the tongue weight is high so it sags me down quite a bit add camping gear and I was sitting low!

 

Not worth it and the tongue is not an A frame like the flat bed it's a single tube so it wouldn't work very well on the boat.

 

Not needed my truck tows just fine the way it is.

 

With the weight of my trailer and tongue weight, my set-up works best with the WD hitch and air-bags dialed in together. I can get my hitch and bags working together and get the truck sitting at almost exactly the measurement to the fenders as with the truck sitting by itself. To much air in the bags and you greatly decrease the affects of the WD hitch, and the handling of the truck and trailer changes. Here is a pic of the WD hitch I run.

 

I have yet to pull my Tacoma with the super charger installed. I did pull my buddies DCLB 2nd Gen no crazy grades but it pulls on the free way with ease.

 

What model is this? Is the drop hitch included or did you have to buy it separate?

 

Yes but wasnt that in your 3500 GMC? How do you have it setup.