Headlight assembly replacement

I just thought I'd make this thread to help people who are trying to change their headlight assemblies. I did it just the other day and I thought I'd share the tricks I found to getting the job done.
first a step by step:

1. remove the 10mm bolt by the grille the body clip and phillips screw(you can also use a 10mm for the screw)
2. disconnect the three prong and two prong plugs to the lights. the main bulb may take a little persuading and the daytime light has a clip on it.
3. either grab a plastic body trim remover or I used a plastic bike tire iron to try and pry out the corner lights a little bit.
4. grab either a shoe lace or a piece of thick string/thin rope and thread it behind the light making sure the shoe lace on the inside goes under the tab connecting it to the main lamp.
5. as scary as it may seem you have to pull on the string straight forward until the corner light pops out.
6. remove the last 10 mm that was hidden by the corner light
7. under where you pulled the 10mm screw is an orange clip that can be pinched with pliers and then the whole headlight assembly can be freed by pulling up then pulling it out
7.5 if your new assembly did not come with the orange body clip you can thread the screw in a bit and the tap it out and put it back on the truck.
8. take your new light assembly and put it on the truck
9. start with the 10mm screw than than do the two 10mm nuts
10. reconnect the plugs
11. put the corner light back in and install the black body clip.
12. rinse and repeat for the other side


I'll also put a link to the video I used.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JimNNGXnuCc
feel free to add any tips parts or ask question.

 

Good write-up. Only thing I'd add is to measure the adjusters on your original headlights, and replicate that adjustment on the new ones. That way they'll at least be close. Mine required no further adjustment.

 

SAE has some protocols on headlight adjustment/settings. I used their website specs for settings after installing new lights assys. Pretty simple stuff.

 

feel free to drop the link.

 

Can’t find it. From memory, measure up to the little circle on your lens.

Park vehicle 25 feet back from wall.

Measure up on wall using the measurement taken to the circle.

Adjust activated lights horizontal line to/no higher than the circle measurement height.

Drivers assy lens should point straight ahead or slightly cocked inward.(Keeps from blinding). Passenger can cock slightly outward. (Light ditches and curbs).

Toyota has a different criteria using a shorter feet from wall measurement (think its 8 feet?). Same idea as SAE and the little circle.

 

It's an easy job, I sampled two different aftermarket housings before spending a little more for OEM Toyota housings to replace my originals.

 

Sounds easy if you live down South. Well it is easy, unless those nuts are rusted on. Rock Auto sells headlight assemblies, comes with bulbs.

 

I saw this post in another thread yesterday and looks to be helpful (second video) when I get around to aiming my lights.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/recommend-aftermarket-headlights.66250/#post-1732744

 

Nice! I was hoping someone would put that FSM up.

2 years ago, I stupidly used two 10mm open box wrenches to adjust that dial nut when all that needed to be done was dropping a long phillips down the chute. Someone posted this same FSM and I was ‘Like duh, you stupid hand model’.

You even posted the low beam adjustment spec. which Toyota uses 3 meters from the wall and SAE is 25 feet.

@bmf4069 good job. I’ll save this one for future reference.

 

Great point. One of the studs broke when I was replacing mine. For anyone in a rust-prone climate, douse those nuts with penetrating fluid well in advance.

 

Guys, I'm looking to do a head lamb assembly swap soon. My 2005 could use some love.

Of course I've looked at aftermarket and OEM. OEM runs roughly $436 at Toyota of Cool springs. Aftermarket is about $150.

Would like to know how your headlamps are holding up and what you personally used.

 

I straight up bought mine on Amazon and they were about 130 each. they have been working good so far. might replace the bulbs it came with just for something brighter but the bulbs that came with are the same as the original ones.
passanger:

$85 For Toyota Tundra 2005 2006 Headlight Assembly Passenger Side Regular Cab,Access Cab CAPA Certified TO2503166C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074JF1JH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
drivers:

$85 For Toyota Tundra 2005 2006 Headlight Assembly Driver Side Regular Cab,Access Cab CAPA Certified TO2502166C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074JDXLC9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Excellent write up OP! You did forget the most important item though, the headlight adjustment tools!

 

Jesus those are some long ass screw drivers

 

Got my new head lamps installed. Felt like the lamps are pointed a lil too far down! I did some serious adjusting but really want to get it precise.

damn hurricane in Louisiana made me postpone finding a flat wall.

 

Anybody want an old set of OEM headlight assemblies? You would need to pay the shipping from Louisiana

 

FTFY: Jesus those are some long ass kebab skewers

 

Depends, what year and cab type, and are they DRL or non-DRL? DC uses difference headlights than AC and RC. Later model trucks have DRL in the corner closest to the grille, that little bubble.

I'd like to replace my OEMs by restoring a pair of OEM. Mine has stress cracks through the lens (pics here)

 

Greetings, new to the forum, replaced 2003 sr5 front right headlamp successfully, could not hand pry left, unfortunately used screw driver and scratched things up pretty good and cracked cover on marker light. Need recommendation on good plastic pry tool so I can get this thing done, eventually some touch up paint I reckon by using vin number, positive input?

 

You cracked it when prying the blinker housing out? You shouldn't need to pry anything. Just stand next to your front wheel and slap-push the blinker housing forward.

 

While you're absolutely correct, short funny story....
When I did driver side couple years back using that procedure, I was able to get a new one after approx 16 years because I applied somewhat too much palm forward pressure and slung it across the garage

 

You did remove the screw at the top of the headlight that holds in the corner light right?

 

Hehe. Speed holes.

 

Hosed everything down with penetrating oil yesterday. Still snapped off a stud. Are these replaceable press in studs? I can’t find a part number for them on the web.

 

Which stud did you break off? Post a pic. It may be easiest to drill it out and replace with a bolt/nut.

 

Blah-Blah-Blah . . . . . "F" all your Gen-1 headlight mods . . . burn in hell, you Sods.

 

What the hell did we do?

 

I'd rather wipe my tail w/ rusty barbed wire coated in acid, then try to make my 2006 headlights brighter . . . .

 

Well alrighty then.