What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Golf cart helped get the main load off the ground and finally got it back on. Put a few marks on the bumper but it's going to get some scratches!

Need to install a few more bolts, wire the winch and mount the solenoid.

 

Yeah, I was pleased with 4 years, being sarcastic of course as that's my second language. If I see any condensation begin to form, I'll be adding some sealer to this one as well.

 

I repainted my grille and that formerly chrome strip under it. I then coated it with glossy acrylic enamel clear coat to protect it. I also remembered to update my build thread with this. LOL

 

@Outbound did you remove the little chrome strip from the bumper? Or did you paint it in situ?

 

I just taped it off and painted it.

 

Fixed the God awful vibration noise in the cab... Which turned out to be the air intake

 

I would do it now as a preventative measure instead of a reaction to moisture. Stop it in the first place before the chance of damage is done.

 

it’s only a quart, so pumping is no big deal. I pumped the entire MTF on the F250 a couple weeks ago. Almost a gallon. That sucked.

 

Nice looking truck! Those headlights look good! Where you get them? Are the side markers stock?

 

Thanks! The headlights and sidemarkers are both from Amazon. The were cheaper than this but here's the exact ones:

AUTOSAVER88 Headlight Assembly Compatible with 2005-2006 Tundra Crew Cab/Extended Cab (4 Normal-Size Doors) 2005-2007 Sequoia Black Housing Clear Lens(Not suitable for Regular Cab and Assess Cab)

https://www.amazon.ca/Headlight-Ass...33------------&vehicleName=2005+Toyota+Tundra

 

Thanks! Those are nice! My brother loves he’s 06 tundra, always Washing it lol. He’s birthday is coming up wish these were a bit cheaper lol.

 

If you can ship to a US address, they're available on Amazon.com for $134 USD.

ACANII - For 2005-2006 Toyota Tundra Double | Crew Cab 2007 Sequoia Black Headlights w/Corner Lamps Driver + Passenger

https://www.amazon.com/ACANII-2005-...33------------&vehicleName=2005+Toyota+Tundra

 

Well I evacuated and recharged my ac, and guess what, it was hot as balls coming home! So I either over charged it, or it leaked out the Schrader when I was done. Min was 1.02 I think, and max was 1.29lbs. I put in 1# 5oz(I always add a smidge extra for loss out of the hoses when I disco)
I’m going to go out and lawfully and responsibly recover a little bit back out and see if she runs. Also got a scanner from a guy at work to see if I can read my primary o2s to see if they are slowly failing. I already swapped rear sensors and the code didnt follow the swap

 

Way better price! Wish I could to that. That would be awesome.

 

Where in AB are you? If you're near the border, most crossings have a package receiving depot. I used Ship Happens in Sumas, WA when I lived in BC and when I had friends living in Medicine Hat they used one as well in Montana though I can't remember which one.

 

Meaning you can just squeeze it in from ground level?

 

Meaning use one of these.

 

I’m in the hat. But with this current situation who know if you can do that eh. I’ll look into it thanks!

 

So from what I read is that the front or even both front and rear o2 sensors read from .1-.9 v so under a volt and that the front ones would jump around in the range. Both my fronts are above 2v and are flatlined. Does that mean both my front o2s are done? Any help would be appreciated, I can try to get any other info off the scanner if I’m told what to look for

 

Air bag is in. Some other little things got done... slowly coming togetber

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/engine-code-p0430-diagnostic-help.65052/#post-1714386

 

Most surefire way
To check cats is to graph front sensors and rear sensors then add or remove fuel. The rear sensors should at behind in response indicating a functioning cat. Responding at the same time is a failed cat. A rough looking graph is typically an exhaust leak... graphs can tell you a lot about how the engine and it’s systems are working

 

I kind of understand that, I will try to graph the front and rears side by side. I thought it was strange that the fronts were so much higher voltage

 

What head unit did you get?

 

Yeah front is easy. Doesn’t take much. I use a little pump that screws into most 1 liter Diff oil containers...

I used royal purple as well. Take a picture of how yours looks when you change it. Mine is just about due for a change but royal purple seems to last longer/better than other brands. But yes it amount cheap

 

The fronts voltage is ideally at 3.3 volts at idle. Theyre wideband. The rears are narrow. Don’t look at lambda, you want voltage.

 

I’ve been reading up some more, kinda starting to wrap my head around it all. I think I got confused with front o2 sensors vs air fuel sensors. I might have more questions tomorrow.
I also found this while adjusting my AC charge, I have no idea how long that’s been like that, I’m also leaving my battery disconnected over night to reset all the mojo

 

Uh.. that might very well be the cause of your codes.. that’s a massive vacuum leak

 

Well, Center stacks back in, radios in (it’ll Come apart again when the camera stuff shows up)

wired the rear speaker outputs to a 4 pin socket (yes it’s an o2 plug) so I can add a under seat sub later


And I also have finally gotten rid of my airbag light by making the seat position sensor work (not as intended but at least it’ll have airbags now)

 

A seat position sensor, I would assume designed to work with a multi stage steering wheel airbag?
Can I assume your truck has a single stage bag, but later model 1st gen's offered a multi stage?
Did you pick a value, or simply complete the circuit?
Good thing you replaced all the dash clips with Velcro tabs.
Great progress!