What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Nice! I ordered some IronX, Reload and Hydro2 Lite today.

 

So, ive pretty much rounded off my 14mm bolt so Im not getting grip anymore with my sockets. Not sure what the next best step is. Try to file the bolt head flat again? Looking up options there are also extractor tools out there. Anyone have any suggestions as to where to go from here?

I did use the floor jack to try to take pressure off of it and that also helped by holding the wheel assembly in place so it didnt keep turning on me. But now im kinda screwed not getting any grip now. Frustrating! Atleast its the weekend and I can spend some time on it tomorrow once I get an idea what my next attempt will be. Thanks so much guys for any help!

 

Pfft she can handle more than that

She can take alot more weight Thats 6x6 17feet

 

Since you need a new one anyway. Go buy a nut splitter.
https://m.autozone.com/test-scan-an...tools-7-8in-nut-splitting-tool/70112_0_0?aqs=

 

Take your angle grinder to the bolt save yourself the weekend

 

Sorry I didn't respond in time before you ordered. We're moving this weekend so I've been super busy!

 

So this is what im working with. Will the nut splitter work if its just a bolt, theres no nut it just screws in. And would an angle grinder help in this situation? Wont the bolt still be stuck in?

 

turbo sockets are what you need to get that off at this point..

 

Does it kinda cut into the bolt head and get a grip on it? They have these at Lowes or Home Depot?

 

If you use your angle grinder you only have to go through half the nut and you can just wack it and the other side will pop off! 2 MIN JOB

 

Ill take a look, but isnt the bolt going into a threaded piece of metal and not a nut. And not sure if i have access to the other side to wack it out. Ill take a look though!

 

My fault I wasn't thinking a bolt so no a nut splitter won't work.
Cut off wheel on a grinder or Dremel would be my next step.

 

If i cut off the bolt head, would i get like a drill extractor thing to get it out? Wont the bolt still be threaded in?

 

im not sure if they do or not. gearwrench sells something like a turbo socket, but turbo sockets are sold by SK. they bite HARD into the head of the bolt

 

All good buddy. After thinking it over I have 4 cars to take care of so I figured I'll throw 150 at a machine to save time long term. I'm going to do a practice run on the GTI, then I'll do the truck and by then I should have it mastered to do my wifes Element.

I want to get it done on the truck so that I can monstaliner the roof, I figure it's better to do paint correction first. I'm toying with the idea of monstalining the roof on my GTI as well, the paint on that roof is falling off because the car is too damn fast.

 

Yeah,but I'm afraid that a drill and reverse thread extractor wont have a better grip than your socket wrench. You'll be worse off I think.

I would go put and get kroil or liquid wrench or some other serious penetrating lube. Soak that bolt from the top and bottom, it's probably rusted on where the top part pokes through the spindle. Also try giving it a few snacks with a hammer, not a home run swing but enough to shock it.

If that doesn't work then try a torch, aimed at the spindle where the female threads are. What I fear most is if that's cross threaded in and you'll have to tap new threads to put your next bolt in.

 

If you cut the bolt head off your only option after that will be to drill the rest of that bolt out of the bottom of the spindle which would totally suck. So I'm guessing your problem is you're rounding that bolt head and its still stuck. Not a good situation but keep trying to get a grip on it , use a lot of penetrating oil and heat, try to shock it loose with a hammer too. Just don't cut the bolt head off, then you'll have a lot more work ahead of you. Good luck! And you'll have to get a new bolt if that one gets really banged up, new LBJ's don't come with those 4 bolts (at least OEM doesn't).

 

Got one door panel setup for power windows.. paint the bare door panel black and I’ll have the fabric redone in leather... need to find shorter screws for a few spots, but it hold good and tight.. tighter than stock actually!

 

What’s your go to snack for nuts and bolts?

 

I'm fond of those Ritz cheese n crackers
Pairs well with a hefeweizen

 

I bet if PHM were here, he would say he only feeds his a healthy plant based diet with a light lager or Pils, with a side of Fuze.......
Does anyone else want to wager how many times PHM has checked his rear brakes/looked for a leaking axel seal, since he’s been gone? I’m guessing 2-7 times at least.
Hope all is well in the bunker @pmh(since your untagable during your “quarantine”)

 

If the stay at home order hit the island he's probably doing things like replacing every bit of electrical tape on his harness, removing bolts to paint the heads and reinstall, and deflating his tires just to pump them full of fresh air.

 

I kinda like your alternate reality better(I’m watching the matrix right now)

 

@oscardog86 i think this is what EL was talking about.

$22 Luckyway 13-Piece Impact Bolt & Nut Remover Set, Nut Extractor Socket, Bolt Remover Tool Set

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083JSZ7QK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_187OEb3H2KVK8

@empty_lord please confirm I am on the same wavelength. If so, it doesn't have to be this set. This is just an idea so you know what to look for. My local Rural king sells an Irwin set. I have always enjoyed Irwin tools.

If nothing else follow what the other guys have said, penetrating lubricant, heat (map gas

BLUEFIRE MRAS-8098 High Intensity Trigger Start Torch Head Nozzle,Free Cylinder Base,Propane MAPP MAP Gas,Push Button,Welding Brazing Soldering,Plumbing HVAC (Swirl Tip Torch Kit with MAPP)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WVDWMN6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.b8OEbH7ZKV41 also does not have to be this. This is an example.) Hit it hard enough with a hammer to shock it like the others have said. Might be seized.

I may have never done suspension work before myself, but I have done plenty of bolt removal, and set screw removal. Drilling with left handed drill bits, and then using extractors suck. It is always best to remove it in one piece to save your original threads.

Worst case scenario you could use Vise grips. Just don't remove so much of the head that you can no longer grip it.

 

those would work.. maybe. they may be a bit to wide to fit, these are what i have

$117 H.b. Products Inc TSCD3813B 13 Piece 3/8 Drive Deep Turbo Socket Sae/ Metric Set

https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Drive-...1&keywords=turbo+socket&qid=1587790295&sr=8-3

 

those are Nice. I heard from an old timer at work that he used Flux for soldering on the bolt hole, and heated the head of a large bolt, like a 2.5 inch socket. Flux melted and flowed right into the threads. Acted like anti-sieze. I have never done this myself, and have never seen it done.

Maybe that would work for this situation?

 

ive never ran into an issue getting these bolts off. typically if they round off its because the socket was not on it 100%. or a cheap socket.

 

Yeah I definitely snapped a HF impact 17mm on my passenger side due to it not being on 100% square

 

Let's hope he isn't using a universal socket with the pins in it.

I always try to use 6 point sockets if at all possible. I will only use 12 point (I think its 12 off the top of my head) if its all I have.

NG²

 

Did a custom YZ450F Retrofit into the bed of my truck. Probably my favorite truck mod so far.