5.7 motor mounts

I have 2 kits left in stock if anyone wants to grab a set quick before I have to re-order!

 

Cool item

 

@Bonzen Hey man I may have asked you this before, but can you do solid trans mounts??

I've got a weird chassis resonance now over certain types of small bumps. I'm pretty certain its the frame flexing like a spring now that the engine is basically hard mounted to the frame. It sort of feels like "bed bounce" only worse. It really sucks driving on the freeway. Some surfaces are smooth, but most are bouncy in a very uncomfortable way.

I already changed my shock valving several times to try to address this. Even with super soft stacks and bypasses removed, it still does it. The next thing I want to try is a solid/poly trans mount.

If that doesnt work, then I'll have to try boxing the center part of the frame. I already have the rear boxed and caged.

Let me know man!

 

X2, mine is the same.

 

yeah @papasmurf has it too. Our trucks are set up almost identical and we did a 3 hr drive with some off road recently. We were constantly comparing the bounce on different road surfaces. Its clearly doing the same thing on his truck as well.

I'm almost positive its the frame acting like a spring. Cant feel it with oem mounts because of the cushion, but that also means its moving a lot inside the mounts and that why oem mounts get trashed

I have a feeling full frame box will be the final answer but I want to try solid/poly trans mounts first

 

EXACTLY! But i agree with Alex, these are the only options i think at this point.

 

Havnt designed a trans mount yet. Reason being is that once you get rid of the crappy OEM mounts, a good in-shape stock style trans mount is sufficient. Even all the guys racing on my motor mounts over hundreds of miles of desert rarely blow out a new good trans mount. It's on the list though of future projects. As far as the C channel frame situation, that has been an issue with the Tundra. I've heard it from multiple people, not just customers. Boxing it in or doing a bed cage that stiffens it up has seemed to help from what I've been told. But in general it's just a big flexy heavy truck with alot of power.

 

I have a full 2" bed cage and the rear section is boxed up to the cab. I'm not worried about the trans mount falling apart. I'm trying to get rid of the weird bounce I have after installing the engine mounts. First thing I want to try is a poly trans mount. Let me know if you decide to make one. They arent difficult

 

I think that is one of the next projects, a tranny mount. Need to finish the 3.5 V6 tacoma stuff first I'm getting blown up for that. But after that going to work on the 5.7/4.6 transmission mount.

 

cool man let me know when you're ready. I have three or four other friends that will probably buy one

 

Will do. I'll post on here and on the Instagram page. Probably a May thing for sure, just takes time to go through all the steps of design and development, building weld fixtures, waiting on vendors, programming and production and more waiting haha.

 

well I know a few of us who can offroad test for ya, that will absolutely put it through its paces more than anyone else

 

Yes definitely, I'll be keeping everyone up to date on here

 

Installed

 

lookin good!

 

Some 5.7 bling

 

Anyone got a video on this install?

 

Try @KyleGreenFabrication, he has installed more sets than anyone else probably. Doubt you will get an answer here, but try IG, better chance for reply.

 

oh man! another mod to consider!

 

Got mine done and went for anice 4x4 trip this weekend..def noticed increased responsiveness(butt dyno) i dont think it really feels faster but more responsive and smoother...also the biggest thing i noticed was the front end felt "tighter" hitting speed bumps you dont have that "water bed" feel anymore, you just feel the shocks works and its hard to describe it just feels more solid. i have no experienced the highway chop some people talk about..but i run fairly stiff suspension and im kinda used to it riding like a truck.

offroad, the front end feels more secure and like i stated before just more solid. did not notice improved butt dyno stuff offroad but it was a slow trail.

Cliff notes: totally worth the money.

 

Ahem.... I've done 5 sets already... how many has Kyle done??

 

what exactly do you want to see.. every install is slightly different. would you like to know steps? short cuts?

a video is gonna be pretty long what questions do you have lets start there

 

Right on Bruce!, 3 that I know of so you win. My original reply was lift engine, remove 6 bolts, install 6 bolts each side and done, didn’t seem very helpful.

 

Basic steps honestly, I can’t find much online about it anywhere. Of course, any tips for making it easier is nice too

 

Tools needed
torque wrench
sockets
ratched head open ends (with flex head if you have them)
extensions
wobble extensions or wobble head sockets

Ok so there are two ways of lifting the motor.

One with the proper hooks and bolts from toyota and an engine hoist, but that's a 3-500$ option, the other is a jack from underneath .. just be careful where you jack, remove your skids and make yourself some working room.

first, support the weight of the motor slightly with the jack, loosen the 4 bolts on the engine mount on each side of the truck and the 2 frame side bolts.
then loosen your radiator fan shroud, and be careful when lifting the motor you watch and check clearances so you don't break or smash anything
then remove the engine mounts. I highly suggest removing the nut that holds the two half together and remove in two pieces rather than 1.
For install of the new ones, reverse the above.
separate the two halves, and there is a right and left side mount, they have slightly different bolt patterns on the engine side, so be careful.
once you have both halves in place, you will reinstall the big through bolt that holds both halves together, and hand tighten.
the engine side block mount bolts start them by hand and get them in about 3/4 of the way leaving some play in the mount
At this point everything should be in place and loose but all bolts slightly started a few turns to hold everything in place (may have to raise and lower the engine a bit to get everything to line up.)
when you install the engine and frame side bolts, make sure to clean the threads of the holes and bolts, and use blue lock tight on them (not red)
DO NOT tighten the bolts with a wrench until you get at least 6-10 turns of the bolt by hand, these F@#$ers cross thread very easily
start the frame side bolts and do the same get about 3/4 of the way in by hand...
once you have both sides in and started, you may have to lower the motor some to get things to line up all the way and start finish tighten everything.

36-38ft lbs on the engine block mount bolts
and 60-80ftlbs on the frame side

Thats it.

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

Nice write up!

I provide basic instructions with the kits. It's all very self explanatory honestly. If you can change brakes, you can change these!

I have 5.7 kits IN STOCK fyi! Send me a DM on here or Instagram

 

Awesome! Thanks for the positive review...everything you said is exactly the point of these

 

my limits are changing my underwear, but I’ve been known to botch that one as well

 

Some laser cut badges for the newer sets