DIY Power Inverter Installation Help

Howdy y’all. I’m going to install a power inverted into my 2018 1794 4x4 and have a few questions.

I’m using @AlmightyCrash link to do the DIY - https://www.tundras.com/threads/110v-outlets-in-bed-and-console-write-up.37500/

I bought this inverter
BESTEK 500W Power Inverter DC 12V...

$49 BESTEK 500W Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Converter with Alligator Battery Clamp 4.8A Dual USB Car Charger ETL Listed

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJSW48V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The inverter has 2 fuses in it. My question is, can I hard wire this by tapping into the cigarette lighter adapter inside the center console? I would prefer not having to wire to the fuse box or battery because I would like to keep the install simple. I don’t want to burn my truck up though. I’m not an electrician, so any info is helpful. Also, I do not want this inverter to work while the truck is off. Thanks again.

 

At 500 watts and 80amp with 10ft of wire (so you can route your wires) you need AWG 6 wire. No way in hell I would use you cig lighter. The page on Amazon also states 150watt 10amp max with the cig lighter.

Blue Sea has lots of great information
http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/

 

Ugh....afraid of that.

Next question? Why out an in-line fuse in it if it already had 2 fuses on the unit itself?

Additional, any videos how to run the wire under the carpet? I know how to remove the driver seat, passenger seat, and center console...just hoping I would have to do all that. I’m 99% sure I’ll be placing the inverter under the passenger seat as I have a large amp for my sub under the drivers seat. The amp is hard wired to the battery. Thanks

 

Also on that note, I would fuse your line and go directly to your battery. I went along the frame to under the passenger foot well when I did my dual battery setup. Also used 4 awg wire.



2nd battery with custom fuse panel, blue sea ACR.

 

Would prefer not going directly to the battery. My kids will be using this and I know I’ll forget to turn it off when we get out of the truck. What about using my fuse box inside the truck? Could I tie it into an accessory fuse that will turn on and off? I’m going to mount 2 grommet adapters similar to the 1st thread I posted and use this 99% for phones, laptops, etc.

 

I had a bass amp installed recently and it had a 4G power ran to the battery with an in-line fuse. It also had a ground ran to the truck frame. Can I tap into that for my power source? Thinking of soldering (2) 4G ends to both to supply power to both the Amp and the Inverter. Any thoughts on that? @GiantsFanDan @NewImprovedRon

 

It can work but will need more details. How many watts and amp's is the sub? How long of a run of wire is the 4awg wire? You will need those details and use blue sea's calculator to see if the 4awg wire is good enough. Also need to know what amp rating fuse you have inline currently.

 

The amp is the Kicker KXA800.1 (see link below)
https://www.kicker.com/kxa8001-800-watt-mono-amplifier

It is running from my battery to drivers side front seat. I’m guessing 5 feet.

I don’t know how to tell what in line fuse I have. I have pictured it below.

I have also attached a pic of my positive wire from battery to amp. I think it’s 4awg. How do I tell? Pictured is the only marks I see. Thanks

 

Based off of the AMP and Power inverter spec's you have 180amps being used off of 1 wire for a total of 5feet. According to Blue Sea's calculator you need 2awg wire so that would be a negative on using your current wire.

Run a second 4awg wire that's fused (close the battery) to under your passengers seat from the passengers floor board like I posted a photo of. Mount the power inverter under the passengers seat.

 

There is a possibility I am using a 1 or 2awg wire already. It is extremely thick. How do I determine that? I do not see a gauge marked on the wire. Thanks

 

@GiantsFanDan @NewImprovedRon Here’s my plan. I’m buying a 0 gauge amp kit (link below) and I will completely replace my current 4 gauge kit.

I will then use a power distribution block to go 0 gauge to 0 gauge to both the amp and the power inverter. I bought a 2nd power distributor for the ground wire as well.

Question? Will this work now? Will I be able to go 0 gauge to the power distribution block and 4 gauge to the amp and inverter (2 separate 4 gauge wires from the block) or do I need to keep it all 0 gauge? Asking because I only have 5 feet of it. If I need more, it would be nice to be able to use the remaining 4 gauge I’m removing.
Thanks!!
SoundBox Connected 0 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Power Only 0 Ga Wire

$31 SoundBox PK0-17, 0 Gauge Amp Kit Power Amplifier Install Wiring Cables - 7500W

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016YVT9IW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lTRBEbY0C5JNB

LEIGESAUDIO 0/2/4 Gauge in 0/2/4 Gauge Out Copper Amp Power Distribution Block for Car Audio Splitter (2WAY)

$16 LEIGESAUDIO 0/2/4 Gauge in 0/2/4 Gauge Out Copper Amp Power Distribution Block for Car Audio Splitter (2WAY)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8LBFK1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UTRBEb1KAFNGD

 

That kit isn't true 0awg wire. Skip it

Here's what I would do if you want one line from the battery to in the cab and then split off once in the cab

Main wire from battery use 0awg. Add inline fuse that's a bit above your total usage

0awg Red/Black Wire with ends:

$87 WindyNation 1/0 Gauge AWG (8 Feet Black + 8 Feet Red) Power Inverter Battery Cable Wire Kit for DC to AC Inverters RV, Car, Solar, Marine, Off-Grid

https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-Inverter-Battery-Inverters-Off-Grid/dp/B01N7OYSQ0/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2FK41KXEASNN2&dchild=1&keywords=2awg+cable&qid=1584318425&s=electronics&sprefix=2awg%2Celectronics%2C208&sr=1-4&th=1

300amp inline fuse:

InstallGear - Fuse Block with ANL Fuse Holder and Clear Cover - 300Amp Fuses for Secure Circuit Protection - Universal Fuse Box for 024 Gauge Terminals, Automotive Applications, Wireless

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-...rds=300+amp+inline+fuse&qid=1584319484&sr=8-8



Now for in the cab you can use 4 awg since it's lower amps and shorter distance for each device you want to power. Inline fuse out to each device you will power for added safety closest to the spliter.

4 awg wire (or reuse your 4wg):

$42 WindyNation 4 Gauge AWG (8 Feet Black + 8 Feet Red) Power Inverter Battery Cable Wire Kit for DC to AC Inverters RV, Car, Solar, Marine, Off-Grid

https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-Inverter-Battery-Inverters-Off-Grid/dp/B01MR4TYL9/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2FK41KXEASNN2&dchild=1&keywords=2awg+cable&qid=1584318425&s=electronics&sprefix=2awg%2Celectronics%2C208&sr=1-4&th=1

2x (for ground & positive) your spliter you suggested:

$16 LEIGESAUDIO 0/2/4 Gauge in 0/2/4 Gauge Out Copper Amp Power Distribution Block for Car Audio Splitter (2WAY)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8LBFK1

2 x 150amp inline fuses for each device:

$9 InstallGear - Fuse Block with ANL Fuse Holder and Clear Cover - 2 Pack, 150A Fuses for Secure Circuit Protection - Universal Fuse Box for 0-10 Gauge Terminals, Automotive Applications

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-...rds=150+amp+inline+fuse&qid=1584319147&sr=8-3


Crimping tool for the power cable ends:

$55 WBHome Hydraulic Wire Crimper Battery Lug Terminal Cable Crimping Tool, 8 Dies, 12 Ton

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0811VYCQ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The extra fuses maybe a bit overboard but it may save your butt one day

 

I will 100% do this if it’s better. I will reuse my existing wiring and already have the crimping tool.

My question is why is the one I’m buying not truly 0 gauge? What do you mean by that?

Also, the link you gave me is 1/0 which if I’m not mistaken is larger gauge than 0. The power distribution blocks would not fit that if that’s the case. Correct me if I’m wrong.

Thanks so much!! This has been a TREMENDOUS help!

 

It's what the description of the item says and it's Copper Clad Aluminum. Not solid copper wire.

WIRE IS NOT AWG (AMERICAN WIRE GAUGE). SET TO INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS.

 

Any chance you could post more pics of the setup in your engine bay? I'm looking to add a Blue Sea 12 circuit fuse block in the engine bay. After seeing the distribution splitter I like the idea of splitting the 0 ga to two 4 ga in cab.

 

It's in my build thread starting at post # 586

https://www.tundras.com/threads/dans-2014-mid-travel-tundra-build.24083/page-20

 

On a side note, I'm not using anywhere near 180 amps on my project so I only used 4awg on my truck.

 

I think your missing the question from what I’m seeing. He’s wanting to wire in a 500w power inverter which comes with a 12v cigarette lighter plug but he’s wanting to hard wire it. He’s not looking to install a 500watt amp which is what it looks like you’re referring to.

 

To answer your questions and to keep it simple Yes you can wire it to your cigarette lighter wiring because it’s a 12v inverter which converts 12v to 110. My personal opinion I’d add a fuse and run it from the fuse box to a toggle switch and then to your inverter

 

Thanks buddy

 

You can also go to your local welding supply store and get true 0g wire with fittings in both positive and negative leads

 

Nice wiring job. Super clean

 

I’ve gotten all my supplies together and ready to roll.

Only thing I still have not figured out is can I somehow tie this into the accessors? I really want this turned off when I turn the truck off. I do not think I’ll remember to do this every time and could cause issues. Any way to make sure it turns off when the car is off? Thanks y’all!

@PSYCHO WHITE TUNDRA @GiantsFanDan @NewImprovedRon

 

hmm...don’t think I’m using a relay yet...maybe that’s my next step. My plan is powering 1/0awg wire from the battery and have a 300Amp in line fuse. Then a power distributor to go 4awg to the amp and to the inverter. I have a (2) 150amp in line fuse from the distributor to the 2 devices as well. I have it as a straight shot...so where does the relay go and what should I get? Thanks

 

I just re-read this. It now makes a bit more sense. I’ve never done a relay switch and/or an add a fuse. Any suggestions? I have a 2018 1794 4x4 and all of my OEM ports are taken. I do not have any blanks. Thanks

thinking this for switch...
https://www.ch4x4.com/product/ch4x4-toyota-small-push-switch-power-inverter-symbol/

 

I am understanding more and more. Not knowing much about electricity and circuits, this has become more than anticipated. I am glad y’all are helping though because I’m understanding the concept more and more. Thank you so much.

About the relay...my inverter is 500Watts and has two 40amp fuses. Should I get an 80Amp relay such as the one below?

Ehdis [1 Pack Car Truck Motor Heavy Duty Heavy Duty 5-Pin 80A 12V On/Off Normally Open SPDT Relay Socket Plug 5 Wire Automotive

EHDIS 1 Pack Car Relay with Harness Truck Motor Heavy Duty 5-Pin 80A 12V Relay On/Off Normally Open SPDT Relay Socket Plug 5 Wire Automotive Relay JD2912-1Z-12VDC 80A 14VDC

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KFKEFZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pf3CEbR8WMGCK

 

What amp add a fuse should I get?

 

Don't hook it to your cigarette lighter it has tiny gauge wire from the factory.

 

You could always use a 12volt cutoff switch inline to the Inverter. Mount it in your center console

Battery Disconnect Switch 12V 125 Amps Master Battery Disconnect Switch Kill Cut Off Universal Used for Trucks, Cars, RVs, Trailers, Boats, Marine Applications (1 Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/BANG4BUCK-Ma...54011&rps=1&sprefix=12volt+cut,aps,195&sr=8-4

 

@russellmoran

Don't use the one in my post above. Not high enough amp rating.

Use this one instead

$40 Fastronix Solutions High Current Master Battery Disconnect Switch Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Cu...16G9JJ4Z4TK&psc=1&refRID=205E6WV1E16G9JJ4Z4TK