1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Nice choice. I helped my brother install that one in his VW Passat. Its a nice head unit with great sound and features. Good choice on the bypass, it does get annoying not having access to certain functions unless the parking brake is set. I ordered one for his also but we haven't installed it.

My Kenwood unit was easy to bypass. I just had to ground the brake wire onto the chassis itself. Took 10 seconds. LOL

 

Our trucks are a mystery with MPG. I had 40+ miles of steep mountain driving. 10 miles off pavement in snow, using both 4H and 4L, and my usual city driving. I still got basically the same MPG I always get, 14.5.

 

Can't go wrong with a Sig. I love my full frame P250. It's buttery smooth, dead-nuts reliable, and easy to service.
My next EDC will likely be a 365...probably a little smaller. I'm a 'full size American man' at 6-1, 240 and concealing a full size semi-auto is pretty close to laughable.

 

Well you wouldn't sell me any sliders so I just assumed. Wanna make me a molly rack?

 

Maybe. The issue might be that the access cab might not be the same as the double cab, but I'll still work on it. I think I'll start a model tomorrow.

I think my sister has the 250. She loves it. I have always liked my sig handguns. I can't afford any of their rifles, but the handguns are great. I see a lot of happy sig p365 owners/ carriers that's for sure.

 

P938. Smaller, but have to get the job done with 7 plinks instead of 10.

 

That's currently what I carry. I really like that little guy.

 

Access cab frame is shorter than double cab

 

My wife carries the p238. I'm not a huge fan of .380 but it's a damn reliable gun. We even put it through a defensive pistol class and it ran just fine even after other guns started failing. I had a p238 about 10 years ago when they first came out and mine wasn't that reliable but hers has been great.

 

The Dirty Harold RIP bro.

 

I've got to tap into my reverse wires for this backup camera. I've not opened it up yet. Does anyone know what color the reverse wire will be? Seeing conflicting things online.

 

Prepared mine this morning for my Kenwood arrival and on 2004 the reverse 12v is red w/blue tracer, the gnd is normal white w/black trace. Should be able to confirm once you pull rear assembly and can then verify not only color but proper 12v with VOM when veh is placed in reverse without veh on !

 

Post up pics on your build page of your wirings. That way I just copy yours. Zzzttt!

 

N

Are you talking about the reverse wire on your HU or for on your truck?? For your HU it should be labeled when you open it up....

 

On the truck. I'll pull the brake light out tomorrow. Maybe it will be obvious at that point.

On another note, it was worth the $25 to have Crutchfield do their magic. Nice and tight!

 

If your talking at the rear bumper and have the tow package the center pin/yellow wire is reverse.

Under the dash red/black going to a relay near the drivers kick panel.

 

So, help me out here. The reverse wire is the white/orange one. Problem is, there are 2. One is thin and very long as if it should go to the parking brake. The other is thicker and much shorter. The bypass for the parking brake has 4 wires but I'm not clear if I need to use all 4 or not.

Shorter reverse wire,



Instructions for bypass.

 

That Orange white is an illumination ground that’s not used. The long one left out goes to a reverse wire to tell the head unit that you’re in reverse. It’s not for powering the camera. The cam likely needs switched 12v and ground. That way it is on all the time and you can manually view it through the head unit if you’d like. Or you can wire it to reverse light and only have it come on when backing. Some cameras experience a turn on delay by doing this and annoys some people.

Use everything on the bypass except for the Alpine wire.

Edit: just saw that you’re using an alpine head unit. Hook up the yellow blue to the Alpine wire on the bypass, tie in the remote and ground and you should be good.

 

Thank you. That helps clarify things. Since I'm not actually running anything to the parking brake I'm going to shorten both to make them more manageable. I hate to undue Crutchfield's clean work to tie in the ground and remote but I may have to. A few people have said you can just ground out the foot brake wire and it works just like using the bypass. I may try that.

 

If it's an Alpine that won't work. I bought a bypass off Amazon that worked great.

 

@FirstGenVol

 

Yeah that's what I linked above but I got mine off ebay. Hopefully the one I got works too. I'm gonna dive into this around 1400 today.

Yours looks different than mine but should accomplish the same thing,

 

Sorry so late getting back to this. One thing I would advise--this stuff seems pretty tough, but it is also fairly slick. If I decided to do the bed of the Tundra, I will likely add a little sand for some grip.

 

I agree, it is slick for sure. How exactly would you apply the sand? Topically or mix in with the liner when mixing the two parts?

 

There are also polymer additives that can add grit. I guess they are supposed to suspend better in paint and such than sand. I want to say I've used something like shark bite or shark tooth or something.

 

View from one of my buildings, we’ve been watching them, a little bit. They just poured the tower crane base yesterday, and building it today it looks like

 

Shouldn't cost you anything but two crimps and two zip ties. Grounding the parking brake wire will not work. Most head units require some kind of sequence of on/off/on which is what the bypass replicates. If the unit sees either constantly off/on then it knows its bypassed and fails to give you the features youre looking for.

 

Never met anyone from SimCity.

 

You’re the go to man for audio/visual. You were in the biz for a while iirc?