What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

What am I missing here?

 

Lack of Crack (ie new windshield).

 

Here's the link to the OBD scanner I have.

$140 OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner for iPhone, Android, and Windows

https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Blue...=1582849879&sprefix=obdlink+mx,aps,217&sr=8-2

 

It's a good thing I gave her a walk around before clocking in. Some of the tape was over the metal hook piece that weatherstrip latches into. Removed those pieces of tape. All good.

I'll got out on my second break and take the yellow tape off.

 

Finally fixed my lazily-retracting seatbelts using a method I was highly skeptical of, which actually worked.

Toyota seatbelts are prone to losing their luster after many miles. You can go all out and spend hundreds at the dealership for fresh parts, mail your seatbelts in to a company like https://www.safetyrestore.com/ for a repair, or try a cheap fix like the one I read about on here. Check out this before and after video!

https://youtu.be/c6unTP2iGqU

I mixed 40% degreaser, 50% hot water, and 10% isopropyl alcohol in a pitcher and let the dirty seatbelts soak for an hour each:


Two decades of sweat, oils, and dirt looks gross:


Then I sprayed more degreaser, gave a scrub, and sprayed all the soap out with hot water. The wet vac helped me get things mostly dry:


I'm impatient and ain't got time to wait all the time. So I took a heat gun and finished off the drying process. The driver's side was the worst retractor, so I exposed the seatbelt housing and lubed it up. I was too scared to take the unit apart since there is literally an explosive inside it.

Now for the part which has me shaking my head! I read on here to spray the entire belt with this product:


I thought it would leave stains on my fresh belts, smell, and not work at all. NONE of this proved true. After letting the product sit on the belts overnight to dry, they retract substantially better now. Not lightning fast, but not so-slow-the-door-closes-on-'em. In the end, mostly likely a new seatbelt spring would be the best fix; however, this is fine with me.

I don't know how it worked. I just know it did. I can feel the belt has tension now, which makes this actually a safety mod. One last before and after because I'm me:

 

I wonder from where this idea came?

 

I need to do this. But I also need to get some black belts.. hmm I’ve considered trd red belts too..

 

I had a red belt in Tae Kwon Do lol

 

So how well does this work and do you think this is worth the money? Just threw my first code yesterday. Have to take it somewhere to find out what is amiss.

 

I have a $20 version but you simply plug it into the OBD port and pair it with your laptop/tablet/phone. I use the Torque Pro app but there a bunch out there. Total cost with the app $25.

Use it fairly frequently between friends and family and have no complaints.

Edit: Here's the one I have, price has gone up slightly since I bough it 5 years ago.

for Android Phones ONLY - Wireless Bluetooth Diagnostic OBD2 Scanner Car Code Reader and Scan Tool for All 1996 & Newer Vehicles ELM327 Compatible OBDII

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sxin_4_osp129-9d8eb5ac_cov?crid=URNQO7SUJCXW&cv_ct_cx=obd2+scanner&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.9d8eb5ac-9017-4347-bce5-60ec9034219e&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=obd2+scanner&pd_rd_i=B005NLQAHS&pd_rd_r=4703a8b5-9a8d-490d-81c0-d9a4a08e6148&pd_rd_w=UifH1&pd_rd_wg=1QysN&pf_rd_p=62c00474-6fe0-420f-9956-a05256e04b43&pf_rd_r=K8P3YGY345X3670ZKBK2&qid=1582893094&sprefix=obd%2Caps%2C164

 

Most of the chain auto-parts stores will read your code for free, hoping you'll buy a part.

 

Only problem is sometimes the code thrown doesn’t show the actual fix. I see this here on this site all the time. I’ll use an example of when I went to Autozoned when a CEL popped. They did their code readings and found that the Gas Canister (Code ???) reading was the reason.

Called the High Dolla Service Shop down the street and service manager says try swapping in a new gas cap ($8). It worked!

 

Correct. The symptom often does not expose the root of the problem. This is how it is with all auto makers and all scan tools.
P0301 in VW/Audi is: misfire - cylinder 1. But it doesn't say why. This carries over to all DTCs. The internet is quick to jump on FLAPSs for being inept at selecting parts, but often turns to them for free diagnoses. Keep our thinking caps on, lads and lasses.

 

Yeah it's almost like vehicle trouble codes stopped evolving at the point when they reached 1980s cnc machine tech levels. Nothing like a green screen readout, a machine not working, and a code that states something like nc error x axis overtravel, to really miss you off. Turns out it was probably the thrown belt on the hydro pump or the dead accumulator. It's like watching a friggin wizard work magic when you find someone that speaks backwards japanese with the fanuc controls and actually figures out what's wrong, but I digress.

I do think that maybe @Professional Hand Model was maybe pointing out that pulling a code a single time gives you not much. A bluetooth scanner can offer some valuable data to backup any codes you see that jump from pending.
It's a bit like pulling 3 seconds from a single conversation in a day and someone making you sound like one of the bohemian grove lizard people.

 

Codes are half the battle. Knowing fuel trims, temps, etc are what you need to properly diag. The code just points you in a direction to check

 

Went out and tried to put backer rod in again. This windshield is much tighter to the dash. I'll deal with the squeak for now.

Also noting a slight creak in the dash directly behind cluster now.

Hmmm

Edit: my drivers side wiper no longer rattles during operation at low wiper speed. I find this strange.

 

I’ve got a damn rattle that was in the truck before I tore the dash out right behind the glove box. Can’t find the source. It’s a buzz though.

 

Can confirm the trans code I gave works for 05-06. It actually ya both trans temp readings and they seem to
Be accurate enough to be useful.

 

There was a couple posts in this thread not too long ago. Might be worth looking into

 

What size backer rod are you trying to stuff in there? I used a flat pry bar to push in the 5/8th" and didn't have any trouble. I used your horror story as motivation to go slow.

 

1/2". Glad I could inspire you, but the show wasn't due to the backer rod. Fit just fine with original windshield.

 

I’d recommend using a (wooden) paint stick next time for anyone reading this thats considering future backer rod installs.

 

I used a wooden spoon the first time. I thought I would have time to do that before I had to leave for work. Naw, not today lol.

 

Finally got more time to work on these bad boys. Interestingly enough it doesn't really seem to impact light output besides possibly some slight shading in the extreme foreground. I don't even think I can see the extreme foreground area with my hood in the way anyhow. Waiting for paint on the bezels and such to dry and I can get to assembly.

 

Which projectors did you get?

 

Yufanya h1 to replace my current nilight h1s. I decided I wanted a project and all blacked out lights instead of the half black of my current setup.

 

Got a bunch of random to-do's done on the truck today.

Did a brake flush using a one man bleeder made from YouTube. Fluid wasn't bad at all.


Really no improvement on the brakes. My front calipers look like the small type.


Also followed Professional Hand Model's mod by putting stainless steel hose clamps on the start of the power steering fluid lines, since they were leaky and a new assembly is mucho dinero. One of the old clamps would not slide down to make room without me mutilating it, but I think this new setup will be bone dry. (Thanks Fred!)


Cracked into the front doors to replace the door checks with better ones from the scrapyard. MAN what a difference, I keep not closing the door all the way because I'm used to it closing itself. Can anyone tell me what these mystery wires are in the passenger (and driver) side door?:


I think they went to the factory alarm system. I don't even know if I have that. I just want my driver's side door to lock other than manually. I've tried everything from new actuator, assembly, button, and even a new handle.

 

Nice. I went with Royalin D2S projectors on my retrofit a while back. I need to adjust their rotation. They are pointing up on the drivers side a little. I've got a pair of bi-led 3" projectors that I'm going to try and retrofit into the halogen fog light buckets. I'll tie the high beam shield in with the high beams for maximum light.

But I got to get started on my F-150 retrofit first. Going to install Morimoto mini D2S 5.0 into the low beams and a pair of bi-led projectors in the high beam buckets for quad projector high beams.

Just gotta get off my ass and get started on them.

 

Factory alarm never had those wires. Either the truck had a system at one point or someone cut your tweeters wires