Timing chain life expectancy/ cam tower leak

What I thought was a rear main seal leaking appears to be the dreaded cam tower leak. Dealer done a fine job of cleaning that up before I bought it. I'm not losing more than a quart between oil changes. But i can't stand an oil leak. Especially not on a very clean truck. No rust and it still looks new. Anyways. I'll be tackling the cam tower myself. With a shop manual I can handle it. I plan on replacing the timing chain while I'm at it. Water pump and possibly the starter. I haven't seen any good write ups on this repair. Is it that bad of a job to do? I know there's a short cut that can be taken to avoid pulling the timing cover but at nearly 200k I want to see the timing chain and judge the wear etc. These 5.7's are noisy and I suspect the timing chain has at least some impact on how loud they are. By loud I mean rattly. Any tips? Special tools that I'll need that someone has ran into needing? Toyota says it's a 16 hour job. I think I can at least get it done in twice that. The grey sealant is the one that solves the leak? Should I blockoff/bypass the secondary air injection system while I'm in there? I don't plan on getting rid of it anytime soon. I'd like to keep it till my oldest son needs a vehicle and that'll be at least 6 years. Maybe even longer. Thanks in advance and I know there are hundreds of cam tower leak threads but I'm yet to see a fit write up. I've only seen videos of dealers doing the job by not pulling the timing cover and that's not what I'm after. If it takes a week I don't care as long as it's perfect when finished.

 

If you have done timing belts before, It is not a bad job. Other then a special tool to remove the crank bolt it is just alot of disassembly and reassembly. I would put new Timing chains, tensioners, and guides. New chains have painted Marks that show you the correct timing.

It is a time consuming tho.... you are removing the front of the engine as well as the valve covers and cam towers. Make sure you label and zip lock all the bolts so you can reinstall correctly.

Luck

 

black FIPG. $8 tube good luck on the project. document it for us

 

Lots of respect for you diving in to this. I’ve watched a few videos of the job and wouldn’t want to touch it. As others have said, please document it. It’d be interesting to see the internals of your motor with high mileage. Good luck!

 

I think I can give a decent diy on this. A good write up is definitely needed. But be aware. I don't work around things. If it's in the way I remove it. I have to work around things at work. So when I'm on my time I don't fight. I just remove.

 

I saw a few videos on it resealing the cam tower and it does not look difficult as well, I saw one too without removing the front cover. I will decide when the time comes if I am still capable of performing the service myself or just pay Toyota to do it. I have to investigate if lifting the body is easier and quicker than working on it while it's in the truck.

Good Luck!

 

A good impact is your friend here. No need for any special tools.

 

You'd be a Tundras.com legend if you document your process when re-sealing your cam towers!

 

I'll definitely be documenting it. And hopefully the truck will still run when I'm done. I've dove in several engines in my time of turning wrenches. I've probably never been in one as complicated as our 5.7 but it's still just nuts and bolts.

 

I also have a fellow coworker that was a Toyota tech before he came here. He has connections still at Toyota and says the cam tower reseal is about 8-10 hours of work by the guys that have done several of them. He also has access to the needed service manual.

 

Yup, so just a bunch of screwing and unscrewing.

I’d look into using Permatex “The Right Stuff” sealant.

 

The crank bolt on my 1st gen Tundra was a bear to get out even with a excellent impact wrench (something like 1100ftlbs). The problem is keeping the engine from turning. If it was a stick you could leave it in gear, block the wheels, and just use a cheater. After all else failed I found a video where a guy put a socket on the bolt with a cheater bar on the frame and then bumped the starter. It worked but I was reluctant to try it. If you are going to replace the starter anyway it could be an option. Maybe there's a engine locking tool that would work (I hate the spark plug style).

I think I would pay for access to Toyota's website for their shop manuals. From what I understand it's a subscription based and they have a cheap short term option. Then you can just download the manuals and maybe even the latest copy of Techstream. If not set the timing to zero and take a picture of where the cam timing marks are. On my 4.7 there was two marks and the obvious one was the wrong one. Of course taking lots of pictures will also help when it comes time to reassembly.

 

On some engines (not Toyota) I just used to wedge a big screw driver in the flywheel teeth to keep the crank from turning. I've done the starter bump thing on a Mercedes engine but only because I knew I wouldn't bust anything. I'd hate to bust a starter or the starter mount in such a case.

 

An impact gun or wedging a breaker bar and bumping to starter will loosen the harmonic balancer bolt, but in order to install and torque the bolt correctly you still need a tool to hold the pulley/harmonic balancer.

I use Schley SCH64300 to do Toyota timing belts but I have never done a timing chain so do not know if the tool will work on the 3UR-FE

 

I figured if my impact removed it, it tightened it just as good. I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high. My results won't guarantee it will work the same for you.

 

Don't these motors throw a code if the timing chain has stretched beyond spec? I read a thread here recently where someone got a code on their 4.0.

 

When I put the bolt back in I just let my impact hammer on it for a few seconds. When I did the belt a second time the impact had no problems removing it so I doubt I went as tight as factory but it didn't loosen up. Honestly I'm not sure why it would need to be that tight as the balancer/ pulley is keyed and there's not much force on it to push it off the crankshaft.

 

I’ve never been into a 5.7 but coming from land cruisers the oil pump is driven off the crank internally so if your crank bolt loosens you loose oil pressure. No idea on torque if the 5.7 , the 1fzfe is 327 ft lbs.
have also done the starter trick on 3.4s out of tacos and runners. I do t remember the torque on those but it isn’t as high as the 1fzfe
I remove the crank bolt by putting on leather glove and holding the crank as I hit it with 1/2 inch electric impact. Reinstall with torque wrench and a 14 mm impact socket jammed into the holes of the flywheel. Spin the engine till ya kick in the socket then torque. Or get the sst.

 

I think I have access to the holding tool for the crank pulley. If that's my biggest concern it shouldn't be a problem. I've done more timing belts than I can count. On twin cam v6 engines and one in a minivan. That was a tough one. Get what you could from the fender well. Loosen the motor mount and raise the engine to get the rest. I've only dealt with a timing chain 1 time and it was on a turbo charged dohc 4 cylinder Honda jetski. Dropped a valve and ended up replacing the head. That was by far the hardest to access of anything I had ever worked on. Several Dodge Neon timing belts. Ford focus.

 

I'm gonna start gathering parts next week. Plan on doing plugs as they have 198k on them. Cleaning the throttle body. Ordering a good quality timing chain kit. Water pump. Oil and filter. Air filter. And the sealant for the cam tower. It'll be a few weeks before I can get to the cam tower job. I've gotta get my Jeep back together enough to drive while the Tundra is down.

 

Just watched a video on timing the 5.7. 4 chains. 6 sprockets. 28 revolutions before timing verification can take place. 4 tensioners. 4 guides. Wow. I knew they were complex but I'm a little overwhelmed. Aint stopping me though. I will fix and document the job. It'll just be a bit before I get started. I don't see anything but oem parts on the timing chains and tensioners and guides. Not something I want to cheap out on. I've also never seen so many oring seals on an engine. I've had Detroit engines and cummins ISX engines down to a bare block. Including all the timing gears and covers. The first one was towed in and had already been dismantled and my job was to put it all back together with a new crank sprocket. I figured surely the Toyota 5.7 couldn't be anymore complex than that. I was wrong thinking that.

 

You should really carefully rethink this. The chains and guides are supposed to last the "life of the engine". Unless you really feel absolutely 100% confident, just do the cam towers. I looked at the shop manual for the 5.7 timing chains and it scares me.

 

I'm 100% confident in it. But i don't think the everyday DIYer should attempt this. Too much at stake. The same mistakes could be made doing the cam tower reseal without pulling the timing cover. At 198k miles there's no way I'm gonna be that deep in without replacing the chains guides and tensioners.

 

I could rebuild this engine minus the machining needed for the block and heads. The only thing I shy away from is a newer automatic transmission. Other than that I have no concerns. Just surprised by how complex these dudes are.

 

OK, it sounds like you're set on doing everything. I'm sure you'll use all OEM parts. Just take lots of photos and keep plenty of references handy. I kept my old laptop with me in the garage when I did my timing belt last week.

 

I will definitely remove the entire front end of the truck. Bumper radiator etc. Fenders and hood will stay on but if it's in front of that timing cover its coming off and out of my way.

 

Also use a big piece of cardboard with the timing cover drawn out to keep up with where the bolts go into the cover.

 

I don't think you need to pull the bumper. I got around fine with it in place. You can easily access the 2 lower radiator bolts through the bumper. The A/C condenser might be in the way a little. I brushed against it quite a few times but didn't damage any of the fins.

 

I'd like to not break the ac system open. If I have to its not a big deal but I'd like to keep it sealed up. Seems like once it's open its never the same.