Lower control arm bushings

New lower control arm bushings are in order. What do people recommend getting? OEM, Moog or some other third party? Let me know.

 

Buy the entire Toy OEM Lower Control Arms. They have the bushings already pressed in. My bushings were toast and the shop that re-did my front end recco’d entire new arms. I’ve seen and read others here that DIY say the same thing. Replace the entire Assy vs. just bushings.

Most of these cams bolts are seized up and need cutting out.

 

I guess just do the lower ball joints too while I'm at it....

 

Its a slippery slope.

I went in for shocks and a proper alignment 3 years ago. They said they couldn’t do the alignment due to seizure. I said hold off until I can save up for the total job.

Might as well do everything all at one time.

 

Gonna start saving up for that proper impact driver.

 

Why not do the polypropylene. Red is for racing, black or yellow is a better choice for daily driving. If I can get them for a 92 Lexus LS400, you should be able to find them. Why buy another control arm with inferior bushings.

 

I have searched without much luck. Siberian Bushings makes some but they come from Russia, take a long time to ship and I’m not sure about the quality.

I was planning on buying oem bushings and pressing them in myself, but I have a southwest truck with no rust.

 

Have you pressed a 1st Gen Tundra Lower Control Arm with new bushings?

I haven’t and thought it was BS when the shop told me to buy new LCA’s vs. pressing. The more I read here about other DIY’ers confirmed that maybe its best to buy new arms!

Sorry about your mom. I read about her in your other post.

 

Get the Milwaukee. She shocked some pretty gnarly brake caliper bolts today with ease.

 

This is what I'm also hearing. We all have our own limits but, paying the extra for the complete arms seems well worth it to me.

 

For better or for worse, I've always been a DeWalt guy. I've seen and heard good things about Milwaukee, though. Exactly, which model are you talking about?

 

There is not a bushing I cannot install.

 

Same but, is it worth the time/effort?

 

Milwaukee is China made, always has been, buy Makita, a company on it's own.

 

Its the Mac Daddy with the friction ring. I forget the model #.

 

I think I've looked at that one. In the ballpark of $700 for the tool+batt+charger. I don't work on my rigs enough to lay out that kind of cash. I'm more of the $200 to $400 range kind of guy.

 

This was $199 tool only on Black Friday.

I already have all the various batteries, as I committed to Milwaukee a few years ago when the Lith/Ion tech came out.

 

I'm wrong. Just looked it up. The whole kit is $500. $230 for the tool. Still pretty rich for my blood.

 

Makita only goes to 18V. No 20V option.

 

Yeah. It was $194 tool only, but was too slow to pull trigger.

Just having it for removing tires is nice. Having batteries already helps. I understand if you have Dewalt batteries, then its best to stick with them.

 

I may be an anomaly but, I've got all corded tools. I hate batteries. Maybe that was gained from old technology but, it has stuck. Also, I don't have a ton of tools (drill, sawzall, angle grinder) and having them corded hasn't hindered me at all. I did have a 12V DeWalt drill back in the day and it always died quickly, charged slowly and was more problem than helpful. So, I'm not invested in any battery system. More than anything, my OCD wants me to stay with DeWalt to match the rest of my tools.

 

Yeah. The nickel/cad stuff was good but the batteries wore out and couldn’t hold a charge after use. The new Lith/Ion stuff is a different story.

 

I'm confused. What is a "corded" tool?

 

It plugs in with a cord.

 

Tools plug in? Wtf?










I'm just poking fun. All my stuff is battery.

 

Does anyone have experience with after market LCA bushings? It's the next job on my list and I'm torn here... OEM bushings are going to cost $300 ++, or I can get MOOG or ACDELCO for around $100. I know buy once cry once but I'm trying to save where I can!

I've also been looking at the Daystar kit but I haven't talked to anyone who's done that either.

 

Best to just buy all new arms with the bushings already installed. You may find you’ll have seized cams and need new arms. That what happened on mine and quite a few others here. It was brutal, but the shop price matched online pricing which was ≈$250 per arm at the time.

 

I'd go with daystar if they are poly bushings.

 

But that is more marketing then anything. Reason a 18V Makita tool can be better rated than a 20V Dewalt