What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Same, have to hold mine. I'm used to that as I like older vehicles, LOL.

Mine's pretty quick though I've never timed it. Almost always on the 4th crank: V-v-v-VROOM. Unless it's -40 then it's like the 5th crank. 800 CCA AGM battery is the one thing the previous owner seemed to do right.

 

I had always held mine as all cars I've had prior, I had to. I just found this out a few days ago when I was putting in my headunit/camera. I bumped the key to start it and let go instead of holding it and it fired right up.

 

Got these mounted yesterday afternoon. 255 / 80 / 17 Falken Wildpeak

 

Maybe some in your future?

 

I'm curious as well, but I don't think I actually will...

It was a pretty old post, but I think it was @trailbikerider that was running the exact same tire / rim combination at some point in time

 

Shouldn't need to with a level kit. Those mudflaps are gone though!

 

@Army_of_One We'll see! I don't think this guy is active around here much, but he seems to have left them on

 

That's impressive! What lift?

 

Thread didn't specify

@chrifishtopher Any details on the lift for those tires to fit and leave the mudflaps intact?

 

Threw some new headlights in. They were not as bad as some I have seen but they were bugging me. The PO or dealer sanded the oem headlights at some point because one of my corners has sanding scuffs but The clear corners I bought awhile ago dont fit very well, might just get rid of them. Also How do I adjust the headlights horizontally? I only saw how you go up and down not vertically.

 

Any chance the springs got swapped sides?

 

5100’s come with boots, for some reason the more expensive 5160’s do not.

 

Pleased with my light bar.
Low beams

High beams with light bar tied in.


The pictures don't do it justice.

 

The springs never came off the truck. I did it just like the video from Toytec.

 

@FrenchToasty is getting some 3/4" bolt lock brackets.

 

Sweet!

 

I was just messing with my cap day before yesterday. Its not leaking, but while I was refreshing the fluid I started to take notice of some grime built up on the rim seal. I put elbow grease on it and blasted it with brake cleaner. Also, I twisted the rubber around (dynamic change) and it firmed up the tightness on the seal once put back on.

FYI, those 2 hoses might need some new snake clamps to stop the fluid leaking around the old weakened clamps. Mine were leaking last year and some big box clamps fixed it.

 

Seems confusing. I think I’d want to put some boots on my investment. No matter the chrome plating quality a small road rock flung up at speed will ding metal.

 

Well one of my 95w h4s burned out this morning. I didn't want to open a new box so I just put the silver Star ultra back in it's place

 

Bummer. How many hours do you think the 95w had on them?

 

I like how you've eliminated the chrome from the bumper and grille. Have you posted about how you accomplished this?

 

Good question. That's something I've been wondering myself but I know it was just under 8 months out of that bulb.
I work nights so I run my headlights both ways on my commute and when I go out of town I usually leave at dark and drive home at dark.

 

This confirms some prior readings on these 95w bulbs. Even the Silver Stars (minuscule light) don’t last very long per some reviewers.

 

I've had good luck with the silver stars in my previous Tacoma. I had LEDs that I had to replace every 3 to 8 months (warrantied) but my silverstars lasted over a year and that's with the headlights on my 03 taco being DTRLs

The maker of the upgraded harness used for the 95w does not recommend using it unless you disabled DTRLs or don't have em at all.

 

the ol' girl gave up the ghost this morning. -15F went out to start it up at let it run for a bit and it was fine. Came back out to bring my lunch and coffee out and it sounded like it was running on 7 cylinders. Drove the car today, gonna have to do some diagnosis tonight.

My first thought is a dead fuel injector or coil pack.

No CEL either. Puzzling.

 

Ordered a boat load of parts for this thing... Front suspension parts, OEM shocks and Struts, rebuilt steering rack, bushings and stabilizer links/bushings.

I did get the frame kit as well. Looks very well made.. I'm in Atlanta for 2 weeks in a training class, so the heavy work will start in early March..

I'll start a thread with photos at that time...

 

Good to know on the hose clamps - I'll look into that!

 

Nice...don't forget, you went to E-rated, so you need to up your tire pressure accordingly...you want to run around 45 in those...but you can contact them with your door jamb numbers and they will tell you their recommendation. I'm running 50.

From their website:

*Some plus size applications may require different air pressure(s) than what is listed on your vehicle’s placard or owner’s manual. In this case, please consult your tire dealer or Falken Tire for proper inflation pressure(s).

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=55

I just put these same tires on with a 2 inch lift front and 1.5 rear and I didn't need to do any trimming nor have I lost the mud flaps...MF do rub though when turning and hit a bump...like if you catch the edge of a curb...for normal driving, no rubbing though. I do have TRD SEMA wheels though, so my wheels are pushed slightly wider than these...don't know if that will make a difference or not though.

 

This may be a dumb question, but what's the frame kit?

 

I have a 12 ton harbor freight job and it wasn’t cutting it so I took it in. This bearing was in really bad shape so it was really welded to the hub.

Bent the dust shield back a hair and no more rubbing. All good to go!